Fertilizing Hay Field

[Nissan197]

Finally got time to put some 18-46-0 down on my 10 acre hay field. Had been meaning to do it for over a month, but had to go get a couple of hernias fixed which set me back. I am hoping for some moisture and will put some nitrogen down in the spring.

 

[Reyer Farms]

That's a lot of P! Glad your up and running. How did you apply?

 

[Nissan197]

I just went down to the local co-op and used one of their fertilizer buggies. Put down approx. 75 lbs an acre. Soil test said the field was low on P.

 

[Lance2622]

HHmmm.. I am fairly new to pasture management but I would have thought it would have been better to fertilize early spring... Does it not matter when you fertilize or is now (just before dormancy) better?

Not trying to troll your post, I just don't know. I have 30 acres for hay production and normally we apply nitrogen in early spring. I am planning on getting a soil sample and fertilizing but I had thought it would be best to do so early spring/late winter.

I am in Texas if that makes a difference.

 

[MarkV]

Lance in my area they generally fertilize Fall and Spring. It all depends on your soil tests and your soil. Fall fertilizer promotes better root growth which helps when things get dry. Spring fertilizer brings things out faster and will, at least sometimes, allow for an extra harvest during the season. Again, just depends on your soil and soil needs.

MarkV

 

[MIKE R]

Up here it is usually spread manure on the field in the fall and fertilize in the spring.

 

[super55]

The easiest way to figure out when to best apply is to get a soil test and tell them what you are planting. The test will tell you where you are deficient and if they rep at the co-op or supply store is knowledgable about his/her products (which they usually are) will give you a good idea.

Nitrogen is usually applied in the spring when the plants are actively growing. Urea for instance if not tilled in or without a significant amount of rain shortly after will loose a large % to evaporation to the atmosphere. Phosphorus takes longer to break down but if the soil is sandy and the plants are dormant than there is a good chance it will leach right through past the root zone getting minimal uptake from the plants. Different types of fertilizers have different chemical compositions thus varying rates of decomposition to the soil. So it is worth talking with the pros. A lot of times they Co-ops are willing to make a custom blend for you based on when you are going to apply and what your soil needs.

 

[DJ54]

I also had soil tests done this fall on my hayfield, and pasture, as it hasn't been done for 5 years or so. I took separate samples where the hay always did pretty good, and a couple acres where it didn't do so well, because of being farmed to death years back. The test results definitely showed the difference.

I spoke with the county extension agent after getting the test results back from them, with his suggestions on fertilizer. He also said to put the potash on now. And as rule of thumb between test years, for every ton of forage removed over the year, it requires approx. 60 lbs. per ton/per acre to replenish the proper amount of potash. So if you get 4 tpa of forage over the season, it requires 240 lbs. of potash to replenish.

I also had the garden spot tested. I was really surprised at the results, since it's been in grass & clover hay since 1987. 2-3 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft., and 2-3 lbs. of potash per 1000 sq. ft. and 0 phosphorus, and 0 lime. Those are not typo's above..., LOL... But was surprised at the 0 phosporus needed. He said even over that time period, if nothing was growing there, to use it, it would still be there. Dad always trickled some 12-12-12 out of a modified watering can into the rows as a starter fertiizer, and that was it. No side dressing through the year. Doing that for 30 some years, plus adding manure caused the excess phosphorus.

I also read in some extension site info, that horse manure is even across the board on nutrients, and equal to 14-14-14 fertilizer. I'd have to go back and look at the pounds of 14-14-14 per acre it would equal, but I do remember it at the applicationn rate of 80 bu. per acre.

Check Craigslist for spreaders. Here in our area right now, someone has, or had an almost new H&S spreader for $775.00. That is a steal..!! I really prefer a spreader with double, or multiple beaters. I had an old Cobey with double beaters, and did an excellent job, but it was just time to replace it. I bought a new Pequea several years ago with a single beater. It does OK, but not like the old Cobey.