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  1. #1
    New Member
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    Kubota M6040

    Default New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    I just purchased an NH 479. I've never worked on one of these. I need to replace a guard. The owners manual mentions adjusting hold down clips, but no direct reference to replacing a guard. Do I remove the knife to replace the guard..

    Apologies for the remedial question, I'm new to all of this.

    Thanks for your help!

  2. #2
    Gold Member SLHawkins's Avatar
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    John Deere 5403, International Harvester 584

    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    Although, I have never tried it, you may be able to offset the knife and replace the guard. I had to replace the entire set of guards on my 492, so just removed the whole cutter bar. That's a pretty simple task.

    Hawk
    A lil bit country, and a whole lotta soul, wid a taste of hip hop flava on the side.

    JD 5403, , IH 584, NH 846 Baler, NH 492 Haybine, Woods E320 Batwing Rotary Cutter, Landpride RCR1572 Rotary Cutter, WR Long 72" OBRG, LandPride RB3596 Landscape Blade, '74 Diamond Reo Dump Truck; '70 F880, '94 Freightliner Classic, KNC 10 tooth Chisel Plow, New Holland Manure Spreader, 35' Texas Bragg Flatbed Gooseneck, Case 450 Track Loader, H-90CM Wheel Loader, '69 Kaiser Jeep M52A2 6x6

  3. #3
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    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    I've done these before.

    We could do it with just offseting the knives and hitting them, the tapping the new one back in. If it is a bolted cutter bar we would loosen the knife if it were too tight a fit, if not just hit it a little harder.

  4. #4
    Elite Member zzvyb6's Avatar
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    jd 1070

    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    You probably should remove the knife bar for several reasons: Its a lot easier to change out the guard, you can inspect the knive condition and change any worn out or broken knives, you are less likely to cut yourself(fingers), you can inspect the knife bushing and you can then easily straighten the guards with a section of pipe so that they all line up. Just for curiosity sake, look in the cross tube to see if there is a spare knife hiding in there. You may have to remove a set bolt to get it out. To remove the cutter knife, park the pitman arm in the center of travel. The bolt head should be in view from the shoe hole. Use a socket and an open end or box wrench to back out the nut and bolt. (This is a special hardened bolt with a fine thread to keep from loosening). Pulling the knife out is sorta easy. Keep the blade level as you pull it out. Putting it in can be more difficult. Push the bar in slowly while raising up the bushing end so that the part of the knife entering the machine is parallel to the line of guards. If it jambs, chances are that a knife has slipped over a rock guard instead of through it. Just pull it out an inch and try again. Wear gloves to keep your fingers from getting cut.

    Also check to see if the chevrons in the rubber rolls engage their partners. If not, remove the roll drive chain, put the rolls into proper register and reconnect the chain. Also inspect the belts. The reel drive belt is easy to change. The sickle drive belt is harder. I uncouple the driveline at the gearbox, unbolt the gearbox and remove the bearing retainer found underneath the case. This allows you to slip the belt on and off the drive pully when you pull the gearbox out of the side. While you are at it, inspect the bearing there and replace if dry or worn. To adjust the hold down clips, beat them down with a hammer (not too tight, though). There are some wear clips on the hold downs, too. Replace as necessary.

    I like my machine to be just tight enough to not clack at all, but not so tight that the knife sticks. It should be easy to roll it over by hand. If you are using it for the first or last time in a season, slobber some old crankcase oil on the bar and guides.

    These are easy to work on. Knives, rivets or bolts for knife replacement, reel teeth, bearings and guards can all be purchased at Tractor Supply. Buy a manual so you can set up the reel drive speed and skid shoe heights for your needs. Set the tire pressures and go to town.

    While most have a hydraulic header lift (one way cylinder), its very convenient to add one for tongue swing. I run both circuits off of my loader connections. This makes it easy for road travel, getting close to a fence and getting through a gate.
    There is no "I" in team, but there is a "Me" if you want to jumble it up a bit...

  5. #5
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    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    Great Info!! Thank you.

    I'll pull the blade as you suggest. I looked again and it appears that while one guard was broken, the rest are excessively worn. I'll replace them all at once.

    Thanks for all of the help!

  6. #6
    Gold Member SLHawkins's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    make sure you get new Holland guards. although they all look alike, they are not interchangeable amongst the different brands. I made the mistake of getting John Deere Guards, thinking the 1/8th in difference in length wouldn't matter. I even went so far as to put on the full set. Just t have to take them all back off and put the right ones on. Fortunately, my John Deere parts department took them all back and refunded my money. lesson learned though
    A lil bit country, and a whole lotta soul, wid a taste of hip hop flava on the side.

    JD 5403, , IH 584, NH 846 Baler, NH 492 Haybine, Woods E320 Batwing Rotary Cutter, Landpride RCR1572 Rotary Cutter, WR Long 72" OBRG, LandPride RB3596 Landscape Blade, '74 Diamond Reo Dump Truck; '70 F880, '94 Freightliner Classic, KNC 10 tooth Chisel Plow, New Holland Manure Spreader, 35' Texas Bragg Flatbed Gooseneck, Case 450 Track Loader, H-90CM Wheel Loader, '69 Kaiser Jeep M52A2 6x6

  7. #7
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    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    Jagyzf - you were right about the spare knife as well. It appears to have not been used.. The cross tube is also a very good wasp hive storage facility..

    Thanks again for the help!

    SLHawkins - I found the NH guards here at Race Brothers. The others were so worn, I wasn't sure that I got the correct one at first. Looks like I'm due for a new set because they are so hogged out.

  8. #8
    Elite Member Tx Jim's Avatar
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    JD 4255/Kubota M7040 HDC

    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    I guess it's been too long since I repaired a sickle cutter. I sure thought guards could be replaced just by unbolting them without the need to remove knife bar.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member D7E's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Holland 479 Haybine- Guard changing

    Single guards are a 5 minute job Just undo knife head and move knife a little bit to allow guard to slide in and out . Daily event with combine headers .

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