NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack

   / NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack #1  
B

bjr

Veteran Member
Joined
May 20, 2005
Messages
1,147
Location
Eastern WA
Tractor
Jinma JM354
This new to me baler had been used for parts machine and I've been replacing what had been taken off. I DO have the operators manual and I've read what it says, but, the stop tab adjusted 1/4" vertical clearance seems not to catch and if I decrease that clearance it doesn't release. Any hints on what I'm doin' wrong. The other is the timing chain is too long and I want to take out some links, but, I have also read that doin' so will make timing the knotters impossible or making them go out of time. I don't follow the logic there, but, I've learned not to argue with experience, What are the views on shortening the chain as long as the knotter clutch hub and drives marks are lined up when big drive arm is at 12 o'clock? thank you for any replies. Oh yeah, I almost forgot. The feeder finger where missing the middle set. Would they have been removed for a reason, I mean is there a chamber feeding issue where the feeder finger are not all used? bjr
 
   / NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack #2  
Wow I thought I knew about nh knotters but you got me stumped about the tab part. As far as the timing is concerned if the plunges arm is at 12 and the timing marks on the knotters line up and the marks in the feeder chamber line up with the nut on the feeder bar it should be right. Make sure the plunger stop is working. I've seen a lot of broken needles just because the spring was missing from the plunger stop. Best of luck to you. I like nh bales but they take a little care.
Sheepdr
 
   / NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack #3  
Does the timing chain have an idler cog on it to tension the slack in the chain without having to shorten it?
 
   / NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I've not used the proper knotter terminology (maybe it's called a knotter stop). It is the clutch tab that the engagement bar hits under the knotter clutch. I have replace the knotter drive chain and retimed and yes there is a slack adjuster idler. I believe I measure 151 links on this baler. I could not verify the amount of links in any of the manuals though. The knotters appear to mechanically turning and working, now. It's just not tying a knot on the left side now. I've adjusted the knotter holder spring to recommended measurement (1/16"), but, to me this too tight and the manual says no knot or cut knots could be from this setting. bjr
 
   / NH 269 Knotter trip adjustment under the Knotter stack #5  
Check your needle height and alignment when they come to the twine discs. The closer the better. Also the needle should just bearly make contract with the knotted glide so the needle don't wobble and the twine disc misses the twine. You said something about the feeder tines before. It could be that to much hay is being pushed to the side that is missing.
Hope that helps a little anyway,
sheepdr
 
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