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  1. #11
    bjr
    bjr is online now
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    867
    Location
    Eastern WA
    Tractor
    Jinma JM354

    Default Re: new at haying

    I second the Drum Mower. I've never grew hay before and I only have a 35 hp imported tractor and someone suggested a drum mower and it's been a good investment. Now if I can only make that old NH 269 tie a bale of hay. bjr

  2. #12
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,208
    Location
    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: new at haying

    Quote Originally Posted by IloveJesus View Post
    Hello, I have a Mccormick 40hp, and I am wondering what cutter/mower, small baler and rake would work best for that size of tractor?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks.
    I assume you mean 40 hp on the pto. If so, a small baler like my Massey Ferguson 124 would work (manufacturer recommends 35 hp pto minimum). Much smaller tractors like the Farmall Super A have been used to run balers this size on mostly level hayfields with no problems. See this video

    FARMALL Super A - YouTube

    The baler portion is about 6 minutes into the show.

    I'd pay the money ($3-4K) and get a small drum mower. Old sicklebars are a PITA to get working properly and are prone to clogging. Rebuilt sicklebars run around $1.5-2K. New ones are $5K+.

    Wheel rakes are inexpensive, but could contaminate the hay with dirt and rocks if you're not careful in setting them up. Old side delivery rakes (ground-driven) are available all over the place and are a good choice. Mine is a Deere 350 (3pt hitch model that's pto driven). The pros tend to like rotary rakes which run in the $3K+ range depending on size.

    Good luck.

  3. #13
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    518
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Mahindra 3215 4WD

    Default Re: new at haying

    I only had a 10 acre field to bale this year, but my Mahindra 3215 was able to handle it all. I used an 8 ft. MF Dynabalance sickle to cut, an old McCormick-International rake, and a IH 37 square baler. I was able to get all the used equipment for around 2K. I was always in L 2 to bale, but with the amount of grass I had I wouldn't have been able to go much faster. The PTO HP is around 27. The bales turned out to be around 45 - 50 lbs. Next year I will be making them heavier; thinking around 60 lbs. This year was the first time I ever baled and next year I will make sure I preplan a lot better. I just assumed I would get around 500 bales and didn't have my barn organized too well and did not have much help lined up to pick the bales up. I ended up with around 1,800 bales and was scrambling to find room in my barn. I got to the point where I had to store over 100 bales in the neighbors barn. For my first time I thought things went pretty well. I was pretty impressed with the sickle. At times it clogged, but it was not very often. The baler would miss tying a knot every so often, but I expected that from a machine that is 40+ years old. Good luck to you. Just make sure you check all of your equipment over real well and keep everything greased up.

  4. #14
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,208
    Location
    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: new at haying

    Quote Originally Posted by Nissan197 View Post
    I only had a 10 acre field to bale this year, but my Mahindra 3215 was able to handle it all. I used an 8 ft. MF Dynabalance sickle to cut, an old McCormick-International rake, and a IH 37 square baler. I was able to get all the used equipment for around 2K. I was always in L 2 to bale, but with the amount of grass I had I wouldn't have been able to go much faster. The PTO HP is around 27. The bales turned out to be around 45 - 50 lbs. Next year I will be making them heavier; thinking around 60 lbs. This year was the first time I ever baled and next year I will make sure I preplan a lot better. I just assumed I would get around 500 bales and didn't have my barn organized too well and did not have much help lined up to pick the bales up. I ended up with around 1,800 bales and was scrambling to find room in my barn. I got to the point where I had to store over 100 bales in the neighbors barn. For my first time I thought things went pretty well. I was pretty impressed with the sickle. At times it clogged, but it was not very often. The baler would miss tying a knot every so often, but I expected that from a machine that is 40+ years old. Good luck to you. Just make sure you check all of your equipment over real well and keep everything greased up.
    Glad that MF sickle worked for you. I've struggled several seasons with my MF 31, also Dynabalance, trying to get a good cut. Still not working like it should. I'm going to a drum mower.
    Grass? I assume you mean native grass, not a planted crop.
    Your numbers add up to a little over 4 tons per acre, which is similar to what my neighbor gets off his irrigated alfalfa hayfield. You must have had a lot of rain this season in your part of KS.
    Anyway, nice going.

  5. #15
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Location
    England
    Tractor
    LandLegend DF254

    Default Re: new at haying

    I was looking to buy a mower this season and could have bought an 8' sickle bar mower at a good price. I can't afford to buy machinery that isn't up to the task, so I asked some advice from an old guy who comes around my bosses farm, as I don't know a single working farmer who uses a sickle. "Don't touch it" was his reply. He told me all about how they are prone to getting clogged up, blunting, loosing teeth etc, and "when you think you've finished for the day and then have to spend an hour getting it fixed for the next day". He reckoned that when disk mowers came along they were a dream- haymaking without the work was his words. Just one (experienced)man's opinion, but I listened. I'm saving my money to buy a drum mower for next year.

  6. #16
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,589
    Location
    The County, ME
    Tractor
    Kubota M5640SUD

    Default Re: new at haying

    The sickle bar mower clogs easily and backing away from a clog kills time. I've had some issues with the cutter bar but it is pretty easy to maintain it seems. I've been told that if you know had to use one and it's in proper working order they'll do the job. I can cut the veg that grows on the banks of the pond and there are sections of my driveway that drop off that the sickle bar can easily access.

    What will a decent drum mower set you back?

  7. #17
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Location
    England
    Tractor
    LandLegend DF254

    Default Re: new at haying

    About 1500-1800, which is around the $2500 mark. A fair chunk of money, but the work is there for it

    Ross

  8. #18
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    11
    Location
    Mountain On
    Tractor
    Mccormick 40 hp

    Default Re: new at haying

    Thanks everyone for replying lots of good useful info. I found someone to cut it for me for this year, which saves me some time. So thanks again.

  9. #19
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    11
    Location
    Mountain On
    Tractor
    Mccormick 40 hp

    Default Re: new at haying

    Thanks Ross71, that seems to be the way to go for sure!!

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