Oiling Round Baler Chain Lubrication

[Jerry/MT]

How do you lube the chains on your round balers?

 

[PILOON]

I don't have a baler but other items with chain drives.
For sure all and any chain will profit with lubricant of some sort.
Grease is OK for slow moving chain but for faster moving ones I'd suggest motorcycle chain lube as it clings rather than be thrown off.
Links will seize up if not lubricated and wear down the sprockets much faster .
For sure lube them and keep them well lubed.
When dirty and caked up clean with suitable solvent and re lube.

 

[zzvyb6]

Buy a spray can of dry chain lub. Its graphite mixed with a solvent that evaporates. You can get a wax based, but grease and wax lubricants collect hay dust and chaff, dirt and body parts. These wear the sprocket teeth.

 

[powerscol]

I use the JD brand in the spray can. Spray on, let dry. Does not seem to collect much dust

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto on utilizing JD aerosol chain lube or motorcycle chain lube.

 

[holeycow]

Don't use grease. It will pick up all manner of grit to wear the chains. It will also plug the idler sprockets which will eliminate lubrication to the sprocket bearings.

Use the best quality chain you can find. Chain is not created equal, not by a long shot. Tension the chains correctly. Chain needs to be slightly loose rather than slightly tight, in most cases. Slightly tight will stretch even good new chain immediately. Too tight will also wear sprockets and bearings excessively. Most manufacturers recommendations are perfect. Trying to achieve that perfection generally leads to too tight. I have learned to err slightly to the loose side...

I have settled on heavy gear oil and an oiler can. It does pick up some contaminants, but after trying all the suggestions above and more, this method works the best for me and my balers over the years. The excess is quickly slung off, and what remains stays on pretty well. I oil the chains about every 4 hours when they are warm. The lube penetrates much better on warm chain. I try to oil and then take a few minute break before I continue to allow the lubricant to penetrate and set-up a little. The most important time to lube is at the end of a working period so the lube can penetrate and so the chains will not rust in between times. You will also be ready to go next time you hook up.

Some balers have "critical" chains which if allowed to fail can cause a lot of destruction to other components. Those chains need to be replaced regularly.

Used tractor hydraulic fluid makes decent chain oil. Used engine oil is not very good, as it is too thin, doesn't stick and simply doesn't lubricate for long at all. In just a few minutes the chains are dry.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I use Liquid Wrench Chain and Cable Lubricant. (spray can) You can find it at just about any auto parts store and even wallyworld.
I really can't tell the difference between the LW brand and the Vermeer or JD brands.

My cousin gave up on all the spray lubes and now just uses 10W motor oil. He says that he likes it better.

 

[sixdogs]

I no longer bale but when I did used Deere chain lube with excellent results. Seems to me that NH uses an automatic drip oiler that works pretty good. Not sure why but I've never used grease on chain. Seems like it would collect dust.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I always used garage door lube. Goes on wet and dries quickly. I usually lube right after im done baling so I can clean the machine, look for hot bearings, and protect the metal parts in case the baler sits for a little while.

 

[holeycow]

And so do I like oil in an oil can better than all the spray lubes. Like I said, I have tried all of the above...I generally use used hydraulic fluids and gear oils. I am currently running a NH chain baler (not a wreck, a solid one) and I go thru about 80-100 litres of chain lube a season. I'm at about 20 litres now and about 1/4 done haying. Rained out right now...