550xp first tank ...

[Treemonkey1000]

So how is it going with the saw Nixon?

 

[NIXON]

So far , so good ! Had a small warm restart issue , it was the operator , not the saw . You be amazed what can be learned from reading the operators manual ! going in search of a laptop tomorrow ,as everything I have is Mac ,and the analyzer doesn't speak Mac .

 

[Treemonkey1000]

No DON"T go PC save the MAC! Some of the Macs you can boot up in PC mode or emulate that.. Yeah I just picked up a Dolmar the other day and actually read the manual.. Geez I must be getting old....

 

[NIXON]

No DON"T go PC save the MAC! Some of the Macs you can boot up in PC mode or emulate that...

I hear you. But, for some odd reason I don't think having my saws up in the office of SWMBO would be received well . Picked up a small HP that I can use down in the shop , or in an emergency.... The dog house .

 

[Scooby074]

Nixon, I think I had the same warm start issue on my 562

Saw wasnt hot but warm. Probably sat for 10 minutes while I cleared rounds from out from underfoot

Followed this procedure:

Warm engine
Start position (1): Set the start/stop switch in the choke
position by pulling the red control outward - upward. Then
immediately press down on the start/stop switch to attain
start throttle setting.
Decompression valve (2): Press the valve to reduce the
pressure in the cylinder and make starting easier. Once
the machine has started the valve will automatically return
to its original setting.
Air purge (3): Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly
until fuel begins to fill the diaphragm (about 6 times). The
diaphragm need not be completely filled.

I didnt do step 3 because there was fuel in the bulb. I didnt want to flood it. Should I have primed anyways?
Saw took probably a dozen pulls to start. I smelled raw fuel. I know I flooded it somehow?

What am I doing wrong? I watched lots of guys on youtube starting it in less than a single full pull of the starter... any ideas?

 

[Bluegill2]

Nixon, I think I had the same warm start issue on my 562

Saw wasnt hot but warm. Probably sat for 10 minutes while I cleared rounds from out from underfoot

Followed this procedure:

Warm engine
Start position (1): Set the start/stop switch in the choke
position by pulling the red control outward - upward. Then
immediately press down on the start/stop switch to attain
start throttle setting.
Decompression valve (2): Press the valve to reduce the
pressure in the cylinder and make starting easier. Once
the machine has started the valve will automatically return
to its original setting.
Air purge (3): Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly
until fuel begins to fill the diaphragm (about 6 times). The
diaphragm need not be completely filled.

I didnt do step 3 because there was fuel in the bulb. I didnt want to flood it. Should I have primed anyways?
Saw took probably a dozen pulls to start. I smelled raw fuel. I know I flooded it somehow?

What am I doing wrong? I watched lots of guys on youtube starting it in less than a single full pull of the starter... any ideas?

Pressing the bulb will not flood the saw, It purges the air out of the system. Press the bulb a few times next time.

 

[NIXON]

Jason , my problem stemmed from not going to high idle to restart warm . As blue gill 2 says, I don't think pressing the primer will cause flooding . So , if it's flooding , I have no idea as to why. If it does it again , pull the plug and see if it's wet.

 

[Scooby074]

ill prime it next time. If I have an issue Ill pull the plug and see.

 

[NIXON]

So whats the deal with the diagnostic tool for the new autotunes? Can you make any adjustments like max rpm? I know you can test the fuel solenoids, get runtimes and "reset" the computer so it will re-learn if you do any mods, but what else can it do, what data can you pull form the computer and is it necessary for routine maintenance?

Im really liking the 550, but not if a $250 diag tool is required for ongoing maintenance or minor mods.

Jason , I've only played with the diagnostic tool for a while , so don't take every thing I say as gospel .
First , it's not needed for routine maintenance . It tells I you if the various sensors are functioning to specs , tells you max rpm , what percent of time the saw has spent at various rims and throttle settings ,carb temps ..... And I can't remember the rest
How are you liking your 562 ? Loving mine , but I'm bugging the dealer to get me an updated harness so that I can get at the plugs like on the newer 562s .

 

[Scooby074]

Absolutely loving the 562. I havent ran it in a couple days so I havent had a chance to try any tricks to improve the warm start performance. I know I'll get it figured and have it starting proper.

There is a link on 0ne of the Swedish chainsaw sites that talks about the diag tool and its functions. Was if you that posted the link on Hearth to the site? (I think it was hearth?) Cant remember now.

But i can see some requirement for the computer even by the typical owner/mechanic. Things like a leaky intake or fuel delivery problem will upset the computer, making it learn and adapt to the problem.. Then once you FIX the problem the computer doesnt recognize the repair and continues to behave as if the fix never happened. This will require a reboot on the saw computer, however as it is now, I dont think you can do it without the factory Husky interface box. This is precisely the thing that scared me about Autotune.. No way to force a reboot without the computer box. At least on a car you can always unplug the battery if you had to.

Here's hoping for an aftermarket hack (or workaround as I understand they had for AT v.1.0 ) that can connect to the AT