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  1. #11
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    5,666
    Location
    Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
    Tractor
    1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by EZ-HITCH
    I have two controls inside the cab that go to the ports. I think the previous owner had a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic "vertical arm" (I don't know the correct name for this part).

    Anyway, can't I just order a 1" cylinder from xyz store and install it? I know I will have to make sure the length is right. Or is there something that I am missing?
    Sounds like you have the remotes to run hydraulic cylinders for the 3 pt hitch which are often call a top n tilt or a t and t system. And yes you could run any cylinder if you can find the right size. Where you will have a problem is finding the proper size with the proper travel and also you will have to have the proper ends welded to it after cutting the existing ends off. If you have those skills it can be done, several here on the forum have done it.

    If you are going to have to take them to a machine shop for modification you may be better off cost wise just buying the ones from the dealer listed above. Another advantage to the ones Mark at CC Machinery imports is they have a built in check valve. This keeps the cylinder from leaking down while in use so you do not have to readjust them once set. The check valve system seems to be hard to find at the xyz store.

    MarkV

  2. #12
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    2,948

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by n8wrl
    I've had one from CCM for about six months now and it is very handy. While it makes hooking up very easy (no more threads!) it also makes UNhooking challenging. I just spent ten minutes today unhooking my box scraper because I couldn't find the 'null spot' where there was no tension on the top-link so I could unhook it. Any tips here?

    -Brian
    Somewhere there was a thread that suggested/recommended a free link in the top link. I don't remember why, or what problem it was trying to solve, but it was basically a couple of links of big fat chain added to the top link to give some slack there. It might have been to reduce some sort of kicking up and bending of the top link, I don't remember.
    Chain links that are big and fat enough to take a 7/8 pin through.
    Anyhow, something like that might work to help find the slack spot.

  3. #13
    Bronze Member EZ-HITCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    70
    Location
    Shepherdsville, Kentucky
    Tractor
    Kubota L4200 GST CAB

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkV
    Sounds like you have the remotes to run hydraulic cylinders for the 3 pt hitch which are often call a top n tilt or a t and t system. And yes you could run any cylinder if you can find the right size. Where you will have a problem is finding the proper size with the proper travel and also you will have to have the proper ends welded to it after cutting the existing ends off. If you have those skills it can be done, several here on the forum have done it.

    If you are going to have to take them to a machine shop for modification you may be better off cost wise just buying the ones from the dealer listed above. Another advantage to the ones Mark at CC Machinery imports is they have a built in check valve. This keeps the cylinder from leaking down while in use so you do not have to readjust them once set. The check valve system seems to be hard to find at the xyz store.

    MarkV
    What should I be looking for in size and travel? The northern tool catalog has several different sizes.

  4. #14
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    720
    Location
    Erin, Tenn.
    Tractor
    2001 Mahindra 4110

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    First thing - a 1" cylinder is not big enough - the ram will be too small to take the load. When I built mine I used a 2 1/2" cylinder with a 1 1/8" rod with a stroke of 8", cost me $59 from Surplus Center. Had to cut the ends off, bought weld-on swivel eyes from TSC and at this time I fine-tuned the retracted length of the rig by cutting "X" amount off the rod before welding the end on. Every tractor's 3ph is a little different, you need to take an accurate measurement of retracted length for your hitch & implements. On my tractor, 16" retracted from center to center of the swivel eyes worked perfectly. You will find with most implements that the retracted length is the most important, with an 8" stroke I have never had to extend it that far out to use it, it's all in shortening the toplink to get good angles for the boxblade and getting the tail of my bushog up high enough to get it on my trailer etc. I also installed a Prince double-pilotted check valve - there are different opinions on needing one, my toplink definitely stays put with the valve whether the tractor is running or not, can't say without it, never tried. If your hydraulic controls are all tight as a drum, you probably don't need one but as parts wear, you might experience some leak-down.

    As far as you guys that are having trouble getting the toplink pin out of your implement, I've never had that problem. My retracted length is shorter than any I could find ready-made at the time, that's the main reason why I built my own. My whole rig with hoses was only slightly cheaper than buying from CCM, but their retracted length was too long to get much use out of my 3ph. On my boxblade I use a short piece of treated 2x4 on each front side of the box as they are worn-down on an angle and the box wants to roll forward when released from the hitch. With the 2x4's in place I can jog my toplink to center the pin just fine and it slips right out. Don't have a bit of problem with my rotary or PHD.
    2001 Mahindra 4110, FEL w/5' & 6' QA buckets & forks for the 5', 6' Atlas boxblade, older 6' Howse rotary, Leinbach 7300 PHD w/9" & 12", MF 2/3 bottom plow, 20"x6' bog disc, KK subsoiler, KK middlebuster, Kubota BL60C 5' tiller, Maschio 6' finish mower.

  5. #15
    Gold Member n8wrl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    301
    Location
    Rural SC
    Tractor
    Kubota L5030 HST

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by Reg
    Somewhere there was a thread that suggested/recommended a free link in the top link. I don't remember why, or what problem it was trying to solve, but it was basically a couple of links of big fat chain added to the top link to give some slack there. It might have been to reduce some sort of kicking up and bending of the top link, I don't remember.
    Chain links that are big and fat enough to take a 7/8 pin through.
    Anyhow, something like that might work to help find the slack spot.
    Interesting - I'll do a search. That might not help me in this case because the box scraper needs a rigid top-link. For the bushhog it is great because there's no problem since it wants some slack anyway.

    -Brian
    Kubota L5030HST
    LA853 QA FEL, Forks & Grapple
    Bushhog SQ720, 72" BoxBlade
    TR3 Rake
    Rural South Carolina

  6. #16
    Super Member JerryG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    7,202
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas
    Tractor
    MF 1440-4 PowerShuttle

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by n8wrl
    I've had one from CCM for about six months now and it is very handy. While it makes hooking up very easy (no more threads!) it also makes UNhooking challenging. I just spent ten minutes today unhooking my box scraper because I couldn't find the 'null spot' where there was no tension on the top-link so I could unhook it. Any tips here?

    -Brian
    I move the remote slowly until I see the pin rock ever so slightly on the implement end. The pin then comes out fine.

    Surplus Center now has cylinders with the swivel balls on several different lengths and diameters of cylinders. The ball is kind of close to the stationary end on the cylinder. I have to put the cylinder in the top draft hole to keep the cylinder from hitting the third arm mount.

  7. #17
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,435
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Tractor
    2004 Mahindra 4110 w/509 BH

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by JerryG
    Surplus Center now has cylinders with the swivel balls on several different lengths and diameters of cylinders. The ball is kind of close to the stationary end on the cylinder. I have to put the cylinder in the top draft hole to keep the cylinder from hitting the third arm mount.
    I like those prices at Surplus Center! I could almost do that today!

    So do I really need the check valves or not???

    Dougster

  8. #18
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    7,696
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougster
    I like those prices at Surplus Center! I could almost do that today!

    So do I really need the check valves or not???

    Dougster
    I would say no. I do not have them on mine and have not needed them. I may be wrong, but I do not think that any that you buy from kubota or John Deere or implement manufactures have the check valves. None of the commercial tractors that I have seen have them. But then again most of the tractor world could be wrong.

    If you get one, get a 3" cylinder and be done with it.

    Remember that if you buy it, that was your food money for the rest of the year.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  9. #19
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    2,435
    Location
    Eastern MA
    Tractor
    2004 Mahindra 4110 w/509 BH

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch
    I would say no. I do not have them on mine and have not needed them. I may be wrong, but I do not think that any that you buy from kubota or John Deere or implement manufactures have the check valves. None of the commercial tractors that I have seen have them. But then again most of the tractor world could be wrong. If you get one, get a 3" cylinder and be done with it. Remember that if you buy it, that was your food money for the rest of the year.
    You rich left coast folks really like to rub it in... don't ya???

    Brian, I think I am limited to a 1-1/2" bore for a Cat I 3-point... otherwise the pins won't match the pin holes:

    http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/035.pdf

    Dougster

  10. #20
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,696
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Hydraulic Top Link

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougster
    You rich left coast folks really like to rub it in... don't ya???

    Brian, I think I am limited to a 1-1/2" bore for a Cat I 3-point... otherwise the pins won't match the pin holes:

    http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/035.pdf

    Dougster
    Bushings man, bushings.

    Doug, make one yourself, it's the only way to get it right. Buy the 3" cylinder, buy an aftermarket top link, a little cutting and welding and you have a hydraulic top link that is the right size for your tractor.

    And it only costs you 6 months worth of meals, didn't you say that you needed to go on a diet? Although the only diet that I can think that you might need to go on would be a real food diet and get off that peanut butter & bread diet, that gets old quick.

    Oh well, more food for thought.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

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