Hydraulic Top Link

[Compact1]

I just ordered a hydraulic top link and hose kit from Carter and Carter Machinery, Inc. in Tennessee. Mark was very helpful and I'm looking forward to receiving his product. Check out their site at http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm

Has anyone else ordered a top link for a New Holland TC33DA? If so, I was wondering which cylinder you chose. I ordered the 18" to 26.5" with check valve.

[firedog]

Got mine (18-26.5) a couple of weeks ago. (Farmtrac 300DTC)

How could I live without it!!!!!!!

[Dougster]

I just ordered a hydraulic top link and hose kit from Carter and Carter Machinery, Inc. in Tennessee. Mark was very helpful and I'm looking forward to receiving his product. Check out their site at http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm
Has anyone else ordered a top link for a New Holland TC33DA? If so, I was wondering which cylinder you chose. I ordered the 18" to 26.5" with check valve.

No, but I am definitely jealous! That's been on my want list for a very long time... but there are still too many other *mandatory* things in the way that must be bought first.

Dougster

[3RRL]

No, but I am definitely jealous! That's been on my want list for a very long time... but there are still too many other *mandatory* things in the way that must be bought first.

Dougster

Hi Doug,
Just wanted to say this one might be one of those "mandatory" ones though. It is so handy you will kick yourself for not getting it sooner!

[Dougster]

Hi Doug, Just wanted to say this one might be one of those "mandatory" ones though. It is so handy you will kick yourself for not getting it sooner!

Oh, I hear you loud and clear Rob. And less expensive things do sometimes move to the front of the line! But four things still sit there on the list ahead of any and all discretionary items... and, sadly, this is still a discretionary item!

Dougster

[EZ-HITCH]

I have been looking to get a hydraulic top link for a while now. My tractor has the hydraulic connector on the back. Can't I just buy a cylinder and hook it into the connector?

[jdbower]

I have been looking to get a hydraulic top link for a while now. My tractor has the hydraulic connector on the back. Can't I just buy a cylinder and hook it into the connector?

Is the rear port connected to a valve control of some sort or is it a Power Beyond? If it's the former, yes. You'll just need to add the hoses and quick connects (or have the guy you get the toplink from install them). If it's a Power Beyond port you'll need a valve of some sort, like I did here.

[EZ-HITCH]

Is the rear port connected to a valve control of some sort or is it a Power Beyond? If it's the former, yes. You'll just need to add the hoses and quick connects (or have the guy you get the toplink from install them). If it's a Power Beyond port you'll need a valve of some sort, like I did here.

I have two controls inside the cab that go to the ports. I think the previous owner had a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic "vertical arm" (I don't know the correct name for this part).

Anyway, can't I just order a 1" cylinder from xyz store and install it? I know I will have to make sure the length is right. Or is there something that I am missing?

[n8wrl]

I've had one from CCM for about six months now and it is very handy. While it makes hooking up very easy (no more threads!) it also makes UNhooking challenging. I just spent ten minutes today unhooking my box scraper because I couldn't find the 'null spot' where there was no tension on the top-link so I could unhook it. Any tips here?

-Brian

[jdbower]

Anyway, can't I just order a 1" cylinder from xyz store and install it? I know I will have to make sure the length is right. Or is there something that I am missing?

That will work, but you'll probably want to cannibalize an existing toplink to weld the ends on. I ended up with a CCM toplink because I haven't gotten a welder yet.

As for finding the sweet spot where you can unhitch the implement I haven't run into the issue yet (but I don't swap implements that often). I do generally use a mallet or hammer to get pins out, if you get close enough to level that may work. I also made the lever for the toplink face backwards so I should be able to tap the pin with the hammer as I move the toplink back and forth until the pin gives easily (stay clear of the implement, of course!). Finally, I also am using undersized hoses (1/4" instead of 3/8") so the toplink may move slower than it would with the appropriate hoses, idling down should slow it down even more and make fine adjustments possible.