Making sense of hydraulic fittings

[canoetrpr]

I'm trying to compare how much work / cost it will be to put together components for an aftermarket 3 spool valve vs. the one that Kubota offers for the L3400.

I'm looking at a 3 spool Prince SV stack valve (Item# 9SV-3-Y) with power beyond that others including MadRef have used here. The specs say the following for the ports:

Inlet and Power Beyond Ports SAE 8
Outlet Port SAE 10
Work Ports SAE 8

I'm planning on using 3/8" hoses for Inlet, Outlet and Power Beyond and trying to figure out what type of fittings I would need put on the hoses so that they can plug into the SAE 8 and SAE 10 ports. I'm assuming that the hose will have male fittings?

Or is it a case of of hydraulic hoses coming with some general purpose fittings at the end which I then have to add the appropriate fitting to to get convert to SAE 8?

I am looking at the pre-assembled hoses at discounthydrauichose.com and thinking that maybe what I need to order are three of the 3/8" ones terminated with 3/8" male pipe ends and then order some fittings to convert the 3/8" male pipe ends that will plug into Input, PB and Outlet ports of the valve to SAE 8, SAE 8 and SAE 10?

I will somehow also have to figure out what fittings will be required on the other end of the hoses so that they can fit into the PB port of the loader valve, PB port of the hydraulic block and return to tank.

Should I be looking at brass fittings or steel or stainless steel.

Also what type of quick disconnects do I need. I'm thinking I am going to use 1/4" hoses for the top and tilt so I assume I need two 1/4" QD and one 3/8" QD. There seem to be a LOT of choices so I have no clue what I need.

When looking at fittings the terms SAE 8 and 10 almost never come up. Seems to all be NTP or JIC. What the heck is SAE 8 and 10 anyway!?

Maybe my best bet is purchasing the valve from surpluscenter, putting it together and taking it and the existing hose from the loader to the PB port of the hydraulic block to a local hydraulic shop instead of trying to get this all together on the internet.

Any advice amid this muble jumble world of hydraulic fittings will be appreciated.

 

[RonMar]

Lots of questions... First off the JIC fitting is a 37 degree flare SAE fitting, same-same.

All hydraulic fittings should be plated steel or stainless, high pressure rated.

Brass fittings are NOT rated for high pressure.

Are you adding a valve, or are you replacing a 2 spool with a 3? I would taylor the valve choice to the fitting type on the cylinders to which it will be controlling. The fewer adapters you need the better.

 

[K9trainer]

Mr canoe
I've learned alot off of The world's most trusted name in belts, hoses & hydraulics | Gates Corporation .They have a tech / engineering info ... quite informative ... you have to register.. FREE though. .. REEAADD OONN>>>
K9

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Gates, Ugh.... Okay, here we go, wish I knew how to do quotes, would make this much easier. Anyway,

Your valve ports are SAE O-ring thread. Fittings numbers represent sixteenths of an inch. So, -10 is a 5/8" fitting. Same with hose.
Come out of your valve with an O-ring to JIC adaptor, male by male. Being as you have -8 and -10 ports, I would go with -6 hose and -6 JIC ends. Hose ends will be females. You will need -8 o-ring by -6 JIC and -10 o-ring by -6 JIC. Both male to male. You could use -8 hose and fittings, but you do not need the extra flow for this application.

For flared fittings, there IS a difference between SAE and JIC. SAE is a 45 degree flare and JIC is 37 degree flare. Both are interchangeable EXCEPT for -6 and -12. Reason being is that -6 and -12 are common propane/gas sizes and hoses are different ratings from hydraulic to propane and should not be interchanged. SAE o-ring port is the same thread as JIC but seals with an o-ring instead of the flare. In a pinch, throw an o-ring on a JIC male and you have an o-ring adaptor.

NPT is National tapered pipe thread and is a totally different animal. In my humble opinion, with today's modern fittings, NPT is for neanderthals.

As far as q.d.'s go, ALWAYS order one size larger than your hose. -6 hose requires a -8 q.d. Q.d.'s are serious flow restrictors and need the larger size body to make up for the restriction. NEVER use a q.d. on the suction side of a pump. Too much turbulence, will cause cavitation and pump failure.

For your application, avoid brass, and stainless is way overkill, don't waste your money.

Look, I know you don't want to spend a lot of money (who does?) but with your limited knowledge, you are really better off getting this stuff made locally. You are looking at getting NPT to JIC adaptors, then going to your o-ring ports. No need to. A local hose shop can steer you the right way.

Eaton Weatherhead >

Try the above website. Lots of good info. Pick yourself up a hose and fitting catalog from pretty much any major hose and fitting manufacturer and study it. Lots of good material.

Personally, I don't like internet buying and avoid it at all costs. Where are you going to go if you buy from the internet and you have a problem? They don't know. A local guy will gladly help you out. And, I know already this will get me beat up here pretty viciously, but there is so much wrong information concerning hydraulics on this site that I don't care to comment on most of it.
Good luck.

 

[curly]

... And, I know already this will get me beat up here pretty viciously, but there is so much wrong information concerning hydraulics on this site that I don't care to comment on most of it.
Good luck.

I'd think the advice from a pro would be well taken...would by me.

 

[JerryG]

Gates, Ugh.... Okay, here we go, wish I knew how to do quotes, would make this much easier. Anyway,

Personally, I don't like internet buying and avoid it at all costs. Where are you going to go if you buy from the internet and you have a problem? They don't know. A local guy will gladly help you out. And, I know already this will get me beat up here pretty viciously, but there is so much wrong information concerning hydraulics on this site that I don't care to comment on most of it.
Good luck.

To quote someone, just click on "Quote" at the bottom of their post on the right side. If don't need all of their post, delete the parts you don't need.
I agree on it being better to buy hoses locally. If they have what you need and don't try to totally rip you off. I have a very good Parker store but it is about 40 miles away and that isn't always convenient.
As far as the faulty information and the back lash from saying something about it, that is the very reason that I have quit posting to almost all hydraulics threads as well as about three other topics.

 

[canoetrpr]

I'd think the advice from a pro would be well taken...would by me.

I would have to agree with curly on this Wayne County Hose and Jerry.

The time you have taken to respond is certainly appreciated by me. I read and re-read your post until it made sense and I have a pretty good idea of what I will need.

I will take your advice and locate a local hydraulics shop - maybe see if I can even source an appropriate valve form them.

Not 100% sure if I am going to go ahead and do this myself as time is always an issue and I might send the tractor to a dealer to get some other stuff done anyway (sunshade and worklights) so I might get them to do this at the same time.

Kubota sells a factory valve and kit for this tractor (as I only recently found out!) but it is substantially more expensive than aftermarket - about 3x. Would be nice to not worry about hose lengths and fittings but 3x is a lot of extra cost.

Thanks again!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

To quote someone, just click on "Quote" at the bottom of their post on the right side. If don't need all of their post, delete the parts you don't need.


[/quote]Woooo-Hooooooooooooo................

I learned something today! That is my goal for everyday. Now I can go back to bed.

 

[curly]

[/COLOR]

To quote someone, just click on "Quote" at the bottom of their post on the right side. If don't need all of their post, delete the parts you don't need.


Woooo-Hooooooooooooo................

I learned something today! That is my goal for everyday. Now I can go back to bed.

Not so fast there cowboy I think you deleted the last little word the part that says [/quote]. Go back and edit that last one where ya got so happy and see if when you save it, it has the box around the quote. It's more readable that way. Add [/quote] right before the Wooooo-Hooooooooooooo

When you hit the quote button it will add

on the front and [ /QUOTE ] on the end. Those both have to remain for the quote to come out right.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

[/COLOR]

Not so fast there cowboy I think you deleted the last little word the part that says

. Go back and edit that last one where ya got so happy and see if when you save it, it has the box around the quote. It's more readable that way. Add [/quote] right before the Wooooo-Hooooooooooooo

When you hit the quote button it will add

on the front and [ /QUOTE ] on the end. Those both have to remain for the quote to come out right.

Oh Curly, you took the wind right out of my sails. Let's see if this works. By the way, I am holding my hand vertically in front of my nose so you can't poke me in both eyes at once.