hyd. operating temperature

[MichaelE]

Does anyone that uses a remote hyd. valve notice how warm it gets? This summer I added a Tatro grapple to my B2910. I used a Prince open center valve rated at 25 gpm. I believe I plumbed it correctly, I ran a hose from the loader valve's PB port to the remote valve's IN side. Then a hose from the valve's OUT back to the tractor where the PB had originally been connected. The whole system works fine, but after working it for ,say, an hour on a hot day, the remote gets so warm you can't touch it for more than 10 -15 seconds. The loader valve gets warm too but not to the point where you can't hang on to it. Is this normal? I don't know how hot hydraulic oil is supposed to operate. The oil level is up to the top mark on the stick, and both filters and the hyd. system oil were changed at the 300 hr. mark which was about 25 hrs. ago. Any thoughts? I fear I may be cooking the HST pump.
Thanks, Mike

 

[Farmerford]

Mike:

I don't think you have a problem. Most pump and motor specifications assume the oil will reach at least 185 deg F (70deg F) and therefore the viscosity recommended is high enough that the moving parts are adequately lubricated at that temperature.

Water just out of a hot water heater may be 140 deg F, and if you soak a piece of metal in it you (at least I) will have great difficulty holding it tightly in your hand for more than a few seconds. So your oil is probably under 140 deg F. The FEL valve probably feels cooler because its greater surface dissipates heat more rapidly than does the auxiliary valve. And is is probably bolted fairly tightly to a metal plate that serves as a good heat sink.

 

[Bird]

Mike, a sorta rule of thumb is 100 degrees F above the ambient temperature. So you can expect things to get too hot to touch. After I added the top 'n tilt to my B2710 and noticed how hot that valve got, I did some testing of my own with a probe into the hydraulic oil and had to agree with what I'd read about 100 over ambient.

 

[jinman]

Hydraulic oil can stand temperatures above 220 F, but the oil will deteriorate rapidly as it goes over 250 F. Your oil is probably heated much more by the HST transmission than the operation of the remote. Just think, the water in your radiator is probably 180-200 F and the engine oil is even slightly higher. Any of these temperatures would be way too high for anything more than momentary skin contact.

 

[AndyinIowa]

A lot of new construction and compact construction vehicles (BHL's, SSL's, etc...) can hit 240F as intermittant for max ambient conditions (desert).

Only takes a few seconds to get a very nasty burn at those temps.


IowaAndy

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Oils can hit those temps no problem. But what about the other components? Under high pressure, your seals that are rated for 212 degrees will begin to deform and extrude. If they don't extrude, they become brittle when they cool.

Anyway Mike, you have nothing to worry about. Everything is normal.

 

[john_bud]

I have some old specs on my ford industrial that show cycle times with fluid at 160F, which is normal operating temperature.

You NEED to get up to that temp or a bit higher to get the moisture out or you will have issues.

jb

 

[MichaelE]

Thanks to all who replied. As always, this form is a wealth of experience
JB, I've noticed you always stress the importance of running a machine long and hard enough to dissipate condensation. As a result, in cooler weather, I save up smaller tractor chores so I can do this. Thanks, Mike

 

[Wayne County Hose]

A little isopropyl will do the same thing. Running your equipment up to temperature is a good thing, but if you can't run it hard for a long time, adding a little isopropyl will help.

 

[J_J]

A little isopropyl will do the same thing. Running your equipment up to temperature is a good thing, but if you can't run it hard for a long time, adding a little isopropyl will help.

Most people will not know that they have water in their system until they check the fluid, or notice diminished operation.

Are you saying to add isopropyl to hydraulic oil? What is the purpose of this? I am guessing it is to remove or absorb the water, but what then. You have now changed the chemistry of the hydraulic fluid. Most hydraulic oils have some kind of detergent in them, and therefore will emulsify the water in with the oil, and I don't think there is enough heat to vaporize the water. What you will have is a milky looking oil that will need changing real quick.

I haven't tried it, but I don't think you can cook the water out of emulsified oil.

I have read in hydraulic literature that non-detergent oil is better, because the water is heavier, and will go to the bottom of the tank, which can be drained off before causing any trouble.

Even is non-detergent oils, if the pump can pick up the water and mix it under pressure, It is still bad hydraulic fluid.