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Old 09-08-2009, 07:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

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Originally Posted by jinman View Post
Vic, if you can find a 1/2" diameter rope, take a 36" piece and make a loop. You need the loop for the hoses minimum bend radius. Place the looped hose in the approximate position of the new toplink and see what you think. I think 36" is the perfect size for the least stress on the hose. Also, I think you will find that you have plenty of room for your hoses to come out the top of the DPOCV. If you put it to the side, it may interfere with additional QDs you could add later. Up is best in my opinion. I'll try to find picture that demonstrates this tomorrow.
An old piece of garden hose will work better than rope. I agree that the 36" length is probably good.
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

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An old piece of garden hose will work better than rope. I agree that the 36" length is probably good.
Yessir! That's a fact.

I found the photo I was looking for. It shows a much better view of the area around the remotes. Our remotes are located very close to the toplink adapter on the tractor and a side-mounted DPOCV would stick out in the way of the hose attachments on the right side. I suppose you could rotate it to the left side, but I think the arrangement in the photo is fine and assures the hoses are up and away from most obstructions. The rigid hydraulic tubing also makes a good place to loop the HTL hanger to hold it up when not needed.
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Last edited by jinman; 09-08-2009 at 11:05 AM. Reason: found photo
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

Jinman, what is that clamp looking thing on your top link ram? Is it a gage so you can return to a certain setting or does it have another purpose??
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

ALso thanks to Jinman's advice an inline restrictor was necessary for mine.
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Old 09-08-2009, 04:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

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Jinman, what is that clamp looking thing on your top link ram? Is it a gage so you can return to a certain setting or does it have another purpose??
Yes, it used to have a sliding graduated gage on the side, but I never used it. It took a lot of abuse one time while I was backing into the brush with my rotary cutter. I removed the rod, but never removed the clamp. It just slides up and down the ram. I've thought dozens of times that I should remove it, but I never think of it when I have an allen wrench set handy.

GEBlackwell: Can you see two restrictors in my last photo? They are in the top hose on the top QD on both sides of the HTL. They take up very little space, but give you a lot of control.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

kennyd & jinman,

Thanks....I'll go with your recommendation of 36" hoses.

Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??

Thanks,

Vic
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

jinman did you get the line restrictors from CCM? I just added an HTL to my TC45DA with one, soon to be 3 rear remotes, and definately need to slow the cylinder travel down.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:02 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

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Originally Posted by kozak View Post
kennyd & jinman,

Thanks....I'll go with your recommendation of 36" hoses.

Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??

Thanks,

Vic
Instead of using 1/2 hose, why not use 1/4 hose and that will slow down the GPM to the cyl, and if that is not slow enough, there are fittings that have an R in the part number that means restricted. The 1/4 hose and QD's will cost less, and do the same job.
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:06 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

Quote:
Originally Posted by kozak View Post
Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??
Vic, 1/2" is the inside diameter of the connection or the ID inside a hose. When you measured the 1/2" QD, you measured the opening of the female adapter which equals the OD of the male adapter that will be attached to the hose.

JJ: The QD adapters (female) that come on New Hollands remote kit are 1/2" adapters. Therefore, you have to use a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter to get the 1/4" hose connected to the 1/2" QD. We have been suggesting 1/4" hose as you have. It's just that the tractor QD connectors will be 1/2".

Mytc45da: I got my restrictors from my NH dealer. He had them in a self-service parts bins with other hydraulic hose and plumbing components. It was not obvious what they were without knowing what you are looking for. I'd ask my tractor dealer or go to a hydraulic shop in your area. Mine were less than $5 each and have a 0.030" opening. They are especially useful for the HTL, tilt cylinder, and FEL grapple circuit.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

Understood. If you want real precision, in lowering the 3pt implements, a needle valve in the circuit will let you go from full flow of the hose, to a gradual drop down. You set it for what ever function you are using. The washer restricters will work, but you have to figure out which one you need. Some of the fittings have with built in restricters.
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