3 point log splitter

[sherpa]

I am thinking about a 3 point log splitter for my TC33D.
I do not have rear hydraulics, what kind of expense is this?
Is there other expense?
What all do I need to consider to put a 3 point log splitter behind my tractor?
Is it worth the expense to go with a 3 point log splitter or should I just get a pull behind splitter?
What other equipment could I use with rear hydraulics?
sherpa

[Gil Case]

You can get a log splitter with a PTO pump, but that kicks up the price some. Maybe cheaper to run a valve and hose if you have the pump capacity.

[beenthere]

I prefer the pull behind with its own engine for power. Wouldn't want my only tractor tied up with the splitter.
If you've a spare tractor, then that wouldn't be a problem.

[jinman]

I use my grapple on my FEL to hold logs while I buck them to size for splitting. Then, I turn my tractor around and use my 3PH log splitter to split and stack the split wood onto my Kawasaki Mule bed for transport to my firewood stack.

The only reason I use a 3PH splitter is that I already have remotes to operate it on the tractor. If I did not have it, I'd go to TSC and buy one of their towable Huskee 22 ton self-contained splitters. They are $999, reduced from $1099. That's one heck of a good deal in my book.

[BigE_]

When I looked into adding remotes to my TC33D (having the dealership do it) it seemed outrageously expensive. I'm thinking it was right around $1,000 for two remotes. You can do it yourself for much cheaper.

A PTO pump is around $500, which is what I went with for my backhoe.

Go with the unit with the separate engine. I bought a 27 ton unit with a Honda engine for right around $1100. (Used a 20% off welcome to the neighborhood coupon at Lowe's).

I can't tell you how nice it is to pull the splitter out to the site with the tractor, unhook, and then put the bottom of the bucket just above the splitter. Wood comes off the splitter and goes right into the bucket. When the bucket is full, turn the splitter off and drive down to the wood storage. If the stack is low, I put the bucket low. If the stack is higher, the bucket goes higher. This is sooo much faster than stacking into a cart, then pulling the cart to the storage, and finally doing the final stacking.

[sizzami]

I never liked the idea of putting unneccesary hours on my tractor and a seperate splitter is a good way to void that.

[Diamondpilot]

Originally Posted by sizzami

I never liked the idea of putting unneccesary hours on my tractor and a seperate splitter is a good way to void that.

How many hours a year are you putting on splitting, maybe 10 at most. This makes me laugh. 10 hours a year is nothing. Its one less engine and keeps your dumb brother-n-law from borrowing it. That is if you have remotes? If not pick up a stand alone at TSC like the others mentioned for $1000 and be done with it. The hours per year added to a tractor debate does not hold water.

Chris

[beenthere]

The hours on the tractor will "hold water" for some, just not "all"

[CHDinCT]

Wouldn't the cheapest option be to get long hoses and steal one of your FEL circuits, preferably the boom circuit with float mode, to run the 3PH splitter? Not saying that's the best option, only the cheapest, assuming you have an FEL or at least the valve to run one.

[jinman]

Originally Posted by CHDinCT

Wouldn't the cheapest option be to get long hoses and steal one of your FEL circuits, preferably the boom circuit with float mode, to run the 3PH splitter? Not saying that's the best option, only the cheapest, assuming you have an FEL or at least the valve to run one.

Hey, don't bring common sense into this. That's good thinking.

One thing all of us with 3PH splitters have to realize is that the 3PH is inactive while the splitter is in operation. The remote has to return to neutral to allow the rest of the system to use hydraulic power. You can lower the 3PH, but you can't raise it.