Help With Hydraulic Cylinder

   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder #1  

woodlandfarms

Super Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
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Location
Los Angeles / SW Washington
Tractor
PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
I am moving this over from the PT section as maybe someone might also have an opinion (JJ, no offense, I just want to make sure I have covered all my bases).

I have a cylinder in need of replacement. It is 20" contracted, 34" extended. I would like it to have a 3" bore and a 1.75" rod. Ideal ends would be 3/4" welded clevis but I will make whatever work.

I have gone through Bailyes and Surplus and all the cylinders are 22" contracted. So, I have 3 choices as I see it.

1 Someone here can suggest where I can get this type of cylinder

2 I can buy the longer cylinder and cut it down (or something comperable)


3 I can remove ears on the tractor and move them to accomodate for the 2" additional lenghth (JJ, you know this tractor, you think I could do this and not mess up the geometry?)

4 - I am missreading the specs at Bailieys and these cylinders are only 20"

Any other sources for HD cylinders? I hate the thought of cutting and welding a cylinder as I know I would mess something up....

Thoughts, comments, generaly derogatory remarks always welcome...


EDIT
JJ, I just thought of something. I wonder if I could put on the 22" cylinder and reduce the rollover by 2" (take it from 20" to 18")
 
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   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder #2  
You can probably get away with if you don't let the cyl rod touch anything.

Can you post a side shot of your bucket hooked up?
 
   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Here are the best pix I could find. What is a bummer is that I just built a new rollover at 20"... That will become a thick peice of scrap steel... I don't think I can move the ears as going down puts me into the drain hydraulics, and going up is air...

Maybe I should just buy a 16" version and have it cut down..... Those two inches, though, would only cause the bucket to tilt up a bit more..... Not a bad thing, although I might pinch the hoses...

Grumble Nothing is easy with a PT...
 

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   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder #4  
Here are the best pix I could find. What is a bummer is that I just built a new rollover at 20"... That will become a thick piece of scrap steel... I don't think I can move the ears as going down puts me into the drain hydraulics, and going up is air...

Maybe I should just buy a 16" version and have it cut down..... Those two inches, though, would only cause the bucket to tilt up a bit more..... Not a bad thing, although I might pinch the hoses...

Grumble Nothing is easy with a PT...

Carl, if you don't want to do the welding, have the welding shop cut out a section, and re-weld the cyl shaft, that is if you have enough shaft exposed .

I think I would put the bucket off the ground about 4 ft, and cycle the bucket several times, in width and length to see if a larger cylinder will cause any problems.
 
   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder #5  
Apparently Power Trac either doesn't sell a replacement cylinder or it's > $1000 and your current cylinder can not be rebuilt.

Is this the dump cylinder? Maybe you can lengthen the top connecting rod by a similar amount to maintain a similar bucket angle.

If you go to a 12" stroke 20" cylinder do you lose too much curl?
 
   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder #6  
Carl,

EDIT
JJ, I just thought of something. I wonder if I could put on the 22" cylinder and reduce the rollover by 2" (take it from 20" to 18")


In thinking about the bucket angles, I am thinking that you only need about 100 degrees total of bucket angle. Maybe 10 degrees up, and 90 degrees down from horizontal.

The first bucket drawing is ideal, and the second drawing is what I see in your configuration.

Your bucket as configured now, will have a faster rollover time. The other bucket will have more roll back force. and be slower.

Is that a PT bucket?

Looking at the second drawing, maybe someone can explain using math or geometry why a force on the front of the bucket was transfered back to the cyl, and bent it. To me, it looks like the lever principle in action.
 

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   / Help With Hydraulic Cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the drawings JJ. My angles look very similar to drawing B. I don't think I could move the position of the rolover as it is attached to the QA Plate and there is no room to manuver. I also realized I would need to lengthen the rollover, not shorten it. Ugh. And I just made a new rollover.

PT does sell the cylinder, and it is not very expensive. I am going to see if the cylinders for the beefier tractors are larger, but the same length. If so, I will order one from PT.
 
 
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