Help.....Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild??

[ss4010]

Hi,


I purchased an old heavy duty boxblade that came of a MF 30 E? With it came the top link hydraulic cylinder. So I figured since the cylinder was sitting outside for at least the last 10 years and there was signs of leakage I would attempt to rebuild it prior to attaching it to my machine.

Easier said than done. I can't seem to figure out how the cylinder can be disassembled. It is a 3" diameter cylinder with 1524 and 2189 stamped on the sides of it. Aside from that there are no other markings. I removed what looks to be a retaining spring (or some sort of shield) that is two full rotations. Besides that I don's see any way to take this thing apart. There are no holes or anything that one might use to unscrew the end of the cylinder.

Attached are pictures of the cylinder (after wire brushing it clean) and knocking most of the rust off.

If anyone knows how to take this thing apart, please enlighten me. Also if you have any ideas as to the make and model of the cylinder that would be very appreciated.

Thanks,


Steve

 

[RickB]

Drive the gland down into the barrel a couple inches, then retrieve the snapring that is revealed. Use the rod to pull the gland and piston from the barrel. Use a soft punch or brass drift so as not to deform the gland.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Steve, I hope that the box blade that you just bought is not to big for your tractor. Any pictures, how wide is it? An industrial BB may be a tad bit to heavy duty for you, time will tell.

Good luck

 

[ss4010]

Drive the gland down into the barrel a couple inches, then retrieve the snapring that is revealed. Use the rod to pull the gland and piston from the barrel. Use a soft punch or brass drift so as not to deform the gland.

Thanks Rick....


So removing the fitting on the side and driving the gland down did reveal another heavy duty spring/ring. After removal pulling the cylinder apart seems to be a bit difficult. At first I was hooking to to a chain and dropping it (see pic) after a hundred or so drops with slow progress I decided to get more aggressive (see pic 2). So this is where I'm at.

There does not appear to be any more clips / parts to remove ... Should I apply a little more force? Right now I have it suspended between the truck and tractor and standing on the chain to apply more force does not seem to pull it out any more... I have been trying to apply slow pressure. Should I get more physical with it?


Thanks,


Steve

 

[ss4010]

Steve, I hope that the box blade that you just bought is not to big for your tractor. Any pictures, how wide is it? An industrial BB may be a tad bit to heavy duty for you, time will tell.

Good luck

Hi Brian,

I was thinking of making another thread for that... but since you brought it up...

Yes that was high on my list of concerns too. The Blade is roughly 75" wide overall and has lever activated rippers. I would guess it at 1100 lbs. I think it's an early 80's era Gannon. For the price ($500) including the cylinder, I figured I could always sell it to someone with a bigger machine and at least break even.

My tire width is spec'ed at 62.6" and the three point lift is rated at 1508 lbs at 24" behind the lift points. (Bobcat CT230).


So far I have a half hour of time with the wire cup brush and a three rattle can paint job invested in it. I was yellow/rust colored. My main purpose is too smooth out the potholes in the community road. Any ideas on how to replace the missing tail board on the scraper? My tires are loaded, do you think I should consider weights on the front end of the tractor? Or will the FEL with 68" bucket (maybe with gravel in it) suffice?

PS sorry for the washed out pics.... It's actually sunny here today...





Thanks,


Steve

 

[kennyd]

It will come...But because you are not pulling in a straight line with that setup it's probably getting cocked slightly in the bore causing binding. Another way to do it is to apply air pressure to the bottom port and "shoot" the piston out. That method is not for the faint of heart though...it can be dangerous.

 

[ss4010]

It will come...But because you are not pulling in a straight line with that setup it's probably getting cocked slightly in the bore causing binding. Another way to do it is to apply air pressure to the bottom port and "shoot" the piston out. That method is not for the faint of heart though...it can be dangerous.

OK... Thanks Kenny

I'm on that. I have on-board air in the truck. I will rig it up right where she stands.

Thanks,


Steve

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hope that you don't have that hydraulic aimed at anything important! And that is a heck of a good price for that Gannon.:thumbsup: Your right, if it turns out that it is to big, you will be able to sell it and at worst break even. Typically I would recommend either a 60" or 66" for your size machine, but for your circumstances hopefully this will work for you.

I'm sure that you could get a replacement tail from Gannon. Hey, do you have your tires filled yet? If not, you should, it is almost unbelievable how much better the tractor will handle dirt working chores.

Good luck

 

[ss4010]

OK... Thanks Kenny

I'm on that. I have on-board air in the truck. I will rig it up right where she stands.

Thanks,


Steve

OK.... So I rigged up the air.... and it came most of the way... until the inside section made it to the end port. So another re-rig using the chain and some quicklinks to keep from torquing it sideways worked. Getting the nut of the ram took some doing. The impact wrench came in handy for that one.


On to the next... ID 'ing the parts and procuring them.

How does one measure the o-rings / seals to spec them? Measure the metal parts that they mate to and figure the difference?


Laying on the towel are:

Two metal springs, an o-ring from the outside of the gland, two plastic spacers and a flat bottom o-ring that goes between the spacers on the seal inside the piston.

The shaft appears to have one o-ring around it to seal the inside of the piston. There is another groove here ... with nothing in it?

The gland appears to have one o-ring inside with two very small plastic spacers and possibly a decomposed fiber wiper? on the outer edge.

Any comments on how to spec theses?


Thanks,


Steve

 

[ss4010]

Hope that you don't have that hydraulic aimed at anything important! And that is a heck of a good price for that Gannon.:thumbsup: Your right, if it turns out that it is to big, you will be able to sell it and at worst break even. Typically I would recommend either a 60" or 66" for your size machine, but for your circumstances hopefully this will work for you.

I'm sure that you could get a replacement tail from Gannon. Hey, do you have your tires filled yet? If not, you should, it is almost unbelievable how much better the tractor will handle dirt working chores.

Good luck

Thanks Brian....

At that price it was a no lose situation.....

I'm not 100% certain that it is a Gannon... But it sure looks like one. And with 1/4" and 3/8" steel it's certain to last another 20 plus years...

Yes my rears are loaded. I have some serious hills here and would not even think about doing everything I can to keep the center of gravity low as possible.

BTW I used to live in Lake Arrowhead... by your avatar it looks like you could be near Scotty's Ranch?