730 ford loader

[peahauler]

Hi there, I am new to this site and I have a question about rebuilding a lift cylinder on a 730 ford loader. I have removed the cylinder from the loader and unscrewed the cap at the top of the cylinder using a 2" wrench. I put compressed air in the cylinder to force it out but it comes to the end of the ram and stops. How do I remove this to rebuild it? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Randy

 

[kennyd]

Hi there, I am new to this site and I have a question about rebuilding a lift cylinder on a 730 ford loader. I have removed the cylinder from the loader and unscrewed the cap at the top of the cylinder using a 2" wrench. I put compressed air in the cylinder to force it out but it comes to the end of the ram and stops. How do I remove this to rebuild it? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Randy

Welcome to TBN Randy

Often, there is a internal snap ring that must be removed. Try pushing the piston down to see it. There are MANY different type of cylinders-so some pictures of yours will help us further help you...

 

[peahauler]

I am not sure how to put pictures on here, I will give it a try. I tried pushing down on what appears to be a thick felt or composite washer, it will not move. As you can see in the center picture i tried to get the washer or whatever it is out, you can see where I picked at it. The pics are kinda small. You will have to enlarge the pictures by pressing ctrl and then +. I am new to this computer fad. It is just a passing fad isnt it?

 

[peahauler]

I got tired of waiting for an answer so I hooked it between a tree and my truck and gave it a quick jerk. I put a hitch pin in each hole and wrapped a chain around the pins. If anyone else has one of these there are no snap rings, just remove the threaded cap and give it a tug. Thanks, Randy

 

[peahauler]

I am still waiting on the parts to repack my cylinders. The new hydraulic oil filter for the loader arrived today and I put it in. An old timer told me once that when you buy a new piece of machinery to make sure and replace all the filters because the paper element will break down over time. Sure enough when I took out the old filter it was starting to come apart. Hard to see in the photos but it is very soft and just falls apart with the slightest pressure, I think I caught it just in time. The filter is in the left frame arm and this is also the oil tank for the loader. I also replaced the power steering filter, pretty tight getting at that with the loader on. When the parts come for the cylinders Ill let you know how my first attempt at repaking hydraulic cylinders goes. Randy

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the pictures Randy...:thumbsup:

 

[peahauler]

Thanks for the help and warm welcome to TBN kennyd, do you have any advice on the steps to putting the cylinders back together? My plan was to lube up the new packings with some vaseline and tap the ram gently back into the bore. Thats plan "A" anyway, plan "B" is about the same only with "gently" left out. Thanks again Randy

 

[kennyd]

I use hydraulic fluid to lube the seals. If there is and internal grove for a snap ring (which I don't think you have) I use a sheet of brass shim stock to wrap the piston so the seal slides past the groove easily without getting damaged. It also help to attach the one end of the cylinder back to the loader so it's held solid. Push as straight as possible.

 

[peahauler]

Ok, thanks, Ill give that a try. There are no snap rings on these particular cylinders and the bore has a bevel at the end so hopefully it will go in pretty easy. When my parts get here Ill let you know how it went. I think they must have sent them by stagecoach.

 

[peahauler]

My packings came today but when I went to put the cylinders back together I noticed that the gland that the top packing fits into was cracked, I checked the other one and it is also cracked. I went to the dealership and Ford no longer services these, a fancy way of saying they can no longer get them. So, onto plan "B". I am having a set made out of solid steel at a machine shop. The originals were cast pieces so these should be much stronger. I circled the crack on the picture, it runs all the way into the ring where the oring seal goes and is all the way through

to the other side. The guy at the machine shop said he could have them done in a couple of days, so they should be done in about a week.