Question about disconnecting/reconnecting lines

[handirifle]

I recently purchased a MF1010 and someone that didn't know, or care, or both, really made a mess of routing the hyd lines. I spent several hours today trying to improve this a bit and was mostly successful, but there is one line that's about 18" too long, and routed really stupid.

If I disconnect this line, then re-route it, do I have to bleed the line when I reconnect?

 

[kennyd]

No bleeding needed, the system will purge itself after you operate the controls through the full range of motion.

 

[handirifle]

Just to make sure I don't do something stupid, these are threaded connections, not a quick connect. If I unscrew them, reroute the hose and screw it together, and cycle it, it will purge any air out of it?

If you haven't guessed I know zip about hydraulics, and REALLY appreciate the help.

 

[kennyd]

Just to make sure I don't do something stupid, these are threaded connections, not a quick connect. If I unscrew them, reroute the hose and screw it together, and cycle it, it will purge any air out of it?

Yes, that is correct.

 

[handirifle]

OK let me ask some more questions, if you don't mind. What about replacing hoses? I know you will lose fluid, does the same theory apply? I assume you'd at least have to add the amount of fluid you lost?

This next question, I suppose a manual will tell, but do you need to replace hydraulic fluid, like engines, trannies, or is it more like brakes, when major work is done?

Thanks for the help. I will test your theory on the "purge" today. Do I need to open any valves to allow the purge to happen, or is there a vent?

 

[kennyd]

OK let me ask some more questions, if you don't mind. What about replacing hoses? I know you will lose fluid, does the same theory apply? I assume you'd at least have to add the amount of fluid you lost?

Once again, YES. The system is self-bleeding as I already said.

This next question, I suppose a manual will tell, but do you need to replace hydraulic fluid, like engines, trannies, or is it more like brakes, when major work is done?

You absolutly need to change the fluid. Usually after the first 50 hours and every 200 or so after that. RTFM

And, if you think that the brake fluid in your vehicle never needs to be changed, you better read that manual also! Brake fluid is hydroscopic-meaning that it absorbs water and should be changed every two years. Doing so will help prevent calipers from siezing up due to rusting/pitting on the inside and keep the master cylinder clean.

Do I need to open any valves to allow the purge to happen, or is there a vent?

Like I wrote in my first reply, you need to operate all the control's through their entire range of motion. Like move the loader up and down, and curl/dump the bucket several times.

 

[handirifle]

OK sorry to test your patience. I'm on a fixed income and at $180+ I'm saving for a factory manual, so the RTFM part will have to wait till I can actually OWN one. It didn't come with one as a used tractor. Thus the reason I'm asking here.

Never said I never needed to change brake fluid, it's been my method, that about every two years something big needs to be done and it gets changed then.

Thanks for the help. Appreciated.

 

[handirifle]

Well pulled the errant hoses off today and noone had a double ended fitting I needed, to splice these hoses, so tomorrow I will have a new hose made that will eliminate two older ones.

I have decided that come this winter, I will go back to steel lines as much as practical. I like the strength, neatness an clean looking lines of the steel. I'll pick up a tubing bender in the meantime.


Question
Looking at the MF1010, it appears the fill hole for the reservoir is right in front of the seat, right behind the stick shift, and right next to the trans dip stick, correct?

 

[handirifle]

OK new hose back on, fluid added, works GREAT! Thanks for the help.

Kennyd
Let me irritate you once more :thumbsup:, if one were to build a new system, pumps cylinders etc, do they self prime? Just fill er up and cycle it? Wondering about building a trencher at a later point and this tidbit could be handy. That and this winter I might inadvertantly drain a cylinder when I redo the lines.

To keep the irritation to a minimum, a simple yas will suffice.

Thanks

 

[kennyd]

No problem HR, sorry if I was a little hard on you before

On a new system, you just fill the sump and start the pump/engine while keeping a close eye on the fluid level in the tank/sump. Everything will purge as you operate the functions.

I can't help on the fill hole question, maybe you should ask that in the Massy forum.