first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky

   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #1  

fishkc10boom

New member
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
11
Tractor
MF 2310 TLB
Hello, Yep I'm a new guy. I had a Farmall M once upon a time, but this is the first tractor I have really used. Anyway I know nothing about diesels, or hydraulic systems , other than some common sense.
I recently bought (5/10) a new tractor MF2310 TLB. It had less than an hour on it and had never been used but it was a 2008 model. At 37hrs I cut a hyd line while mowing, (MMM) with the rear linkage when lowering. I was quick about shutting everything down and I don't think I lost that much fluid. I had a new hose made the next day and even though the glass showed full I put about a quart of cheapo permatran III in. Since then I have not had the lifting power and in general the tractor feels sluggish. Here I am at 45hrs and I am going ahead and changing the fluids for the first time. I warmed up the tractor a little a just ran the FEL up and down a few times. I took out the drain plug and it came out like a milk shake with cool whip on top. Also I was a qt low. What do I do! flush it I assume, with what, and do I leave the old filter on? I thought I would use Amsoil in it when I am done. Any comments/suggestions on that.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #2  
Hello, Yep I'm a new guy. I had a Farmall M once upon a time, but this is the first tractor I have really used. Anyway I know nothing about diesels, or hydraulic systems , other than some common sense.
I recently bought (5/10) a new tractor MF2310 TLB. It had less than an hour on it and had never been used but it was a 2008 model. At 37hrs I cut a hyd line while mowing, (MMM) with the rear linkage when lowering. I was quick about shutting everything down and I don't think I lost that much fluid. I had a new hose made the next day and even though the glass showed full I put about a quart of cheapo permatran III in. Since then I have not had the lifting power and in general the tractor feels sluggish. Here I am at 45hrs and I am going ahead and changing the fluids for the first time. I warmed up the tractor a little a just ran the FEL up and down a few times. I took out the drain plug and it came out like a milk shake with cool whip on top. Also I was a qt low. What do I do! flush it I assume, with what, and do I leave the old filter on? I thought I would use Amsoil in it when I am done. Any comments/suggestions on that.

Air entrained in the fluid will make it look milky.
Foaming is common in hydraulic fluids and mixing incompatible fluids can sometimes cause excessive foaming.
Water moisture will make hydraulic fluid milky.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky
  • Thread Starter
#3  
So should I just put in all the same brand just to make sure that was it and then work on changing to amsoil. Do I leave the original filter on?
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #4  
If it were me, I would go get some cheap oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements, fill it up and run it a few hours and then drain and refill with good oil and a new filter. If you still have the old oil, you can pour some in a clear jar and let it set. The oil will clear up if it was air entrained. If it was water in the oil the water will settle out on the bottom. Sounds like you may have had both. Setting for most of 2 years the water may have come from condensation. Incompatible oils will usually settle into two or more layers. I guess you know now not to mix oils. I always buy extra to keep on hand for the occasion something needs topped off. I'm also a fan of using the manufacturer's oil or at least a quality name brand equivalent.

Kim
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I probably wasn't clear the first time. I didn't mix oils, except brand name. I used the same type, met manufactures standards, and the dealer told me it was the same and go ahead and get the cheaper brand for top off until the first 50hr change. I did set out a clear jar of it to settle over night to see what happens. The dealer is very expensive, they wanted $70 for 2 filters, and they would have to order them. Small town, not too many choices. Thanks for your help. If you have any other guidance it would be welcome.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #6  
If you have any other guidance it would be welcome.
Make sure the amsoil you are contemplating using is the correct stuff, and meets the manufacturers specs for your equipment ..... :cool:
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #7  
To answer your question, I would change the filters if the fluid is contaminated with water or another substance.

I agree that if it is air entrainment that leaving it set in a clear bottle it will clear up.

If you have some of the oil you can do a crackle test to see if it has moisture in the oil. you get a hot plate warm it up and put a drop of oil on the hot plate. If the oil has moisture in it it will crackle. If the results are inconclusive then put a drop of new clean oil on the hot plate and compare the results.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky
  • Thread Starter
#8  
That is one of those super simple ideas that I would have never thought of. Thanks, I think the results of that will make me a little more comfortable. That and a couple of oil changes to really clean it out.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky #9  
On that crackle test, you might try some aluminum foil. Make a little basin shape out of a small piece of foil, put in a spoon size amount of oil, and heat it from below. If it has small water droplets in the oil, it will boil fast and sputter a bit as it evaporates, and the oil will be left nice and clear. If that does not happen, it may not be water at all. If the machine sat out in the weather 2 years while it was for-sale, condenstaion could have got to it, or maybe even sabatoge---who knows? But don't let those filters scare you, the price anyhow, they need to go. Shop on line a bit, you may find some better priced. I would also likely use a major oil brand of Tractor/Hydraulic Fluid. I prefer the Chevron 1000 THF. excellent stuff, but there are others that are good too, or just go with factory brand.
 
   / first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks, when I checked the jar this morning there was no separation it looked brown with a billion microscopic bubbles in it. I left the old filter on and put in the 2.9gal the book said. But I guess they don't take into account the lines to FEL. I ended up putting approx. 3.5 gal in, because even after warm up with 2.9 it was low in the glass. I ran it for a while mowed some and drove into some dirt mounds and I seems to have it's strength back. I will mow tomorrow, use the FEL and the Backhoe and drain it again. The fluid I have been using Is from Atwoods here in town. It's like a TSC but not as clean. It says it is a trans/hydraulic fluid and it does specify on the back that it meets all AGCO & MF requirements, Permatran III. that is not the fluid I want to run it, this is just clean out. $26 for 5gal is a lot easier to waste on running and dumping.
It seems like so many shy away from the synthetics. Why is that? If I am supposedly going 250hrs between changed I want it to be good. I use synthetics in my cars. Is it a bad idea in small tractors?
 
 
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