Position of hydraulic hoses on top link

[93Mustang]

I have installed a hydraulic top link (CCM version cylindar). I was able to use one "elbow" but could not get two to fit due to the limited spacing between the hydraulic "holes" (quite technical speak...) so the one furthest away is straight up. BTW - this leaked like crazy when I first hooked it up and made multpiple trips to the local hydraulic store to get the hoses squared away as I just tightened them without any paste and then couldn't get them apart again, then couldn't use both elbows (you get the picture!:ashamed Anyway, I can only raise the 3pt to about "5" on the position control before I start to bend the lines. I was thinking about either flipping the thing over and having the hydraulic lines connect on the bottom or turning it around and connecting the extending end to the tractor. Thoughts?

 

[kennyd]

I have my DPOCV block facing down because of clearance, I also turned it. You can loosen the compression nuts and turn the valve if you need to.

 

[skipmarcy]

This is my homeade toplink - that's a Prince DPOCV mounted on the side of the cylinder. I got the parts from Surplus Center 6 years ago and built it and has held up to extreme duty on my tractor - I don't baby it !! Doesn't look as pretty n' sleek as most but it works well and was reasonable in price. My hoses have never gotten in the way and I have no other clearance problems throughout the range of toplink movement, even with my little toolbox on the valve side. My remote disconnects being mounted real close to the hitch really help too - don't know if it's feasible on your tractor but you might be able to move where your remote connects are to help use different hoses.

I mounted the DPOCV to a piece of 3" channel iron with bolts, then along the 2 edges of the channel I split some 5/16" fuel hose and slipped on it for insulators, then mounted the channel to the cylinder with a couple stainless hose clamps. I hardwired the valve to the cylinder with the steel hydraulic lines and fittings which made the mounting even more solid. When changing implements or using an implement that doesn't need a toplink I use the small chain you see slipped under one of the steel lines to hold the cylinder up out of the way. That cylinder is a 2 1/2" dia., 8" stroke with a heavy 1 1/2" dia. rod. Originally it had clevis ends but I cut them off and cut the rod at that time to the exact length I wanted for my tractor and got 2 weld-on ball ends from TSC and welded it up. I paid $59 for the cylinder, $70 for the DPOCV, about $30 in fittings and quick connect ends and the 2 hoses and the 2 ball ends were about $16. I already had the channel iron and hose clamps and fuel hose. The main reason I built my own toplink was the fact that I couldn't find one with the right retracted length to fit my tractor and the implements I use. All the ready-mades were too long by a couple inches and would have been almost useless for me.

 

[beenthere]

Mine was a tight fit and I tried several different positions. Here is a pic of one I ended up with. Not sure if it helps you at all.

 

[XCAT]

i have only just finished my top link last week on my Daedong EX50, i swapped the DPOCV to the other end and put 90 deg bends on all hoses at the coupling end , so when i lift or tilt the fitting turns in the coupling allowing the hose to move with the cylinders.
hope this helps
cheers

 

[J_J]

IMO, one hose fitting is vertical, and the other end is horizontal. As the cyl moves up and down, the wire braid is trying to twist, and could eventually loosen. I would loop the hose in a vertical plane, and possibly a swivel if necessary.

I would loop it straight off the back down to a swivel on the cyl .

If you have ever wound up a pressure washer hose, you know what I mean. You have to wind it in the same plane. It does not like to twist or kink.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

QD's makes excellent swivels, and I can't see why XCAT's solution shouldn't work....
if cylinder movement is vertical, hoses needs to be looped in a horizontal or offset plane, to allow flexing alt swiveling....to longer loop the less need of a swivel, and vice versa....
Good example XCAT!:thumbsup:

I like tight plumbing, but Skipmarcy's plumbing looks little too tight, and it don't look like the QD can swivel?? The, way too short, hoses, might put tension into hose wiring and the fittings on the DPOCV. Do you have to plug in the QD's before connecting the blind side of cylinder to tractor?? Looks very tight....but if it works it works...:thumbsup:

Agree that vertical loop (at vertical movement) can eliminate need of swivel if plumbed right, but then you'll depend on a hose bend flex, and that might take an extra large loop of hose....(have seen 360+ deg loops LOL)...but now you have to use QD's so why not take advantage of the swivel option QD's give you!?

 

[XCAT]

IMO, one hose fitting is vertical, and the other end is horizontal. As the cyl moves up and down, the wire braid is trying to twist, and could eventually loosen. I would loop the hose in a vertical plane, and possibly a swivel if necessary.




yes , but at half travel they are on the same plane with no signs of twisting at either full height or at bottom of travel.
cheers

 

[93Mustang]

Thank you for all the feedback! Did not get a chance to play with the cylinder this weekend. I am going to be honest and say that a lot of what has been discussed is beyond me (i would say a good bit of what is discussed in the "hydraulics" category fits that as well) - not that i mind reading it- but the pictures-now those I can understand!

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Thank you for all the feedback! Did not get a chance to play with the cylinder this weekend. I am going to be honest and say that a lot of what has been discussed is beyond me (i would say a good bit of what is discussed in the "hydraulics" category fits that as well) - not that i mind reading it- but the pictures-now those I can understand!

Picture= more than 1000's of words