hydraulic top-link ?

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Thanks for the simple and easy to understand answer. Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later? If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second?

 

[MikePA]

<font color=blue>Thanks for the simple and easy to understand answer.</font color=blue>
You're welcome. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

<font color=blue>Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later?</font color=blue>
I'm not familiar with the JD set up, but this is a true statement for NH.

<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second? </font color=blue>
Perhaps one of the JD people will chime in, but with the NH, the only thing I am aware of (I havn't done this yet, but am planning on adding the hyd toplink next spring) is installing the first hyd control so the lever sticks out of the middle slot in the right hand fender. (The 3ph lever is already coming out of the innermost slot.) This would alow you to add the second remote lever without having to move/remove other levers. There might also be an issue with where the quick connects mount, but since these are options on any Boomer, I believe they've already thought of this. In fact, if I remember the pictures correctly, all the tubing for the quick connects are rigid tubing which exit the rear of the tractor somewhere near the ROPS cross bar.

 

[ronjhall]

Gary
The one in Chris’s post has a 10” stroke and 1” pinholes. This is a Cat. 2 link.
The one I put on my 2910 has an 8” stroke and ¾” pins. It is a Cat. 1 link. The overall length of the link I purchased was 20” long. I was able to cut overall length down to just over 18”.
The Cat 2 link may not fit a 2910’s top link and it would always require a bushing to fit the ¾” pin of the 2910.
I would sure give the one Chris bought a try. $99.00 sure beats $189.00. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
With all the inquires manufactures have had from Cat. 1 owners. You would think someone would start building them for Cat. 1 like the one Chris bought.

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later?</font color=blue>

Yes.

<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second?</font color=blue>

Someone more familiar with your tractor model needs to chime in here, but unless you want to always be hooking up and unhooking quick couplers, you need a separate valve for each of the hydraulic links. It's much cheaper to buy a two spool valve to start with than to buy a single spool valve now and later change to either a two spool valve or buy a second single spool valve.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Thanks, Bird! That makes a lot of sense. If I put on the top link now and decide to go with the tilt later I'll have what I need for it. If I don't do it, I spent a couple extra bucks for no reason but will know I can always upgrade later if I change my mind.

It sounds like maybe I ought to post this in the Deere section. What do you think?

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>It sounds like maybe I ought to post this in the Deere section. What do you think?</font color=blue>

I think many of the threads, such as this, could logically fit into more than one forum section, so sometimes you just pick the one you think will be seen by the most people and, personally, I see no problem with it being where it is. I don't really think it's a good idea to post duplicate messages in more than one forum, but sometimes that's done, too.

 

[kch]

I guess not many people put hydraulic top links on a 2910 the dealer acted like no one has ever asked for that before and had to do a lot of checking and ordering. Well one question was what size top link did I want??????? good question! any ideas on what length I should get on a B2910??

 

[MikePA]

I was always under the impression that the hyd toplink needed to provide the same length range as the manual toplink.

 

[kch]

well I guess you can go bigger? The dealer said there are several different sizes and wanted to know what size i wanted??????

 

[Bird]

Ideally, you probably want the same length (both collapsed and extended) as the original manual link. However, it can vary a bit. I bought a 20" cylinder with an 8" stroke, but then shortened it a couple of inches. I think Ron did the same. And I used a 2" diameter cylinder. In my opinion, the optimum cylinder for the B2910 would be 2" diameter, 18" collapsed, with an 8" stroke; same as for the B2710.