Hydraulic outlet questions

[DONOTDELETE]

I read this in JD forum
"I had been interested in the discussions of the benefits of having extra hydraulic outlets in front and back. I had three sets in the front with the loader and 4-in-1, but only one in the back from the third valve to operate the 4-1. Nothing to run the top-n-tilt I wanted without disabling something else. "

I am buying a tractor soon and know nothing about the outlets discussed in the above. If I can how many do I need in the back and front to operate a FEL and a backhoe? What is top n tilt? Is there a practicle number to have? Sorry about the newbie question.

Lou

[tractorhal]

Lou,good start you said you were gooing to buy aJD. My thought is to have the dealer install the remote hydraulic couplings. The couplers for the FEL ,and BH should be or will be included with their purcahse. The 3rd,4th and 5thwill be extra. The 3rd , 4th,and 5th will be at the rear of the tractor. If you are buy a 10 series compact they have an electric diverter valve to operate the FEL or 3rd-5th remotes. You will need power beyound for the BH. 3rd would come or be needed with a MMM. 4&5th needed for top and tilt, and other attachments.

[jinman]

Lou, depending on the size of tractor you buy and your intended use, you may need only a few hydraulic outlets or as many as you can get.

If you buy a tractor with a loader, there will be two hydraulic outlets controlled by a single "joystick" control handle. (I used to have a FEL that had two controls, but it was very old.) Your dealer will either install the loader controls to the tractor, or most will get the tractor delivered in "loader-ready" condition from the factory.

Some people will add a hydraulic control to the three-point-hitch in the rear of the tractor. The 3PH comes with hydraulic lift, but the side-to-side levelling control is done with a manual crank which extends or shortens one sidelink going to the lift arm. If you replace that with a hydraulic cylinder, this feature is called "hydraulic tilt." The toplink to your rear implement is also adjustable by a manual screw-jackshaft arrangement. If this is replaced with hydraulics, it is called "top-link" hydraulics. Thus, if you have both, it's called "top-n-tilt" or T-N-T. Many CUTs come with the ability to add factory "remote" valves for these hydraulic functions. The word "remote" just refers to a hydraulic quick-connect fitting at the front or rear of the tractor. The controls for the remote connections are normally conveniently located near the operator. Many implements use hydraulics to operate. One example is a hydraulice post-hole driver, another is the log splitter. The use for these remote hydraulic connections is as varied as your imagination. Two or three extra connections in addition to your loader is common. You should always check the total GPM flow of your hydraulic system and match it to the implement you need to use hydraulics to operate. For instance, some post drivers need 12-14 gpm flow. If your tractor is only able to provide 8 gpm, this implement would be too large for your tractor.

Good luck with your tractor purchase. If you use the search feature of TBN, you can find most any question discussed or answered. If you can't find the answer, just ask. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[5030]

I'm not partial, anything under 60pto is made across the pond anyway.
I had 6 outlets (3+3) on my last tractor and the present one has 2+2 as I operate a wide rang of implements and never used the 3rd set. My last backhoe had a pto pump rather than using the tractor system and I like that setup better as the GPM flow can be greater. I just like Kubota as the at least put their name on it and not try to hide their Jap heritage under the hood. Assembled in Horicon, Wisconsin, came in a shipping container.

[DONOTDELETE]

The number of outlets you need depends on your future plans with the tractor. A front end loader requires a pair, but that often is part of the loader package. A backhoe often has it's own pump (pto) or requires hyd flow - but not the typical connectors & control lever. It is _really_ nice to be able to run at least one hyd cylinder on the rear - and 2 isn't bad.

If you have no clue, be sure you get what you need (with tractor or with loader) with a loader, and have one or maybe 2 extra sets at the rear. I would check out the implements I'm thinking about buying in the next 5 years, and make sure the tractor is capable of running them. It's probably cheaper to order the machine with the ports now, than to add later. I think more than 2 ports on the rear is overkill, unless you know why you need so many. I would want one port on the rear, as some use will come up some day, if only for resale value.

It is possible to use the loader ports on many tractors by removing the loader & connecting hoses to those ports. But, that is inconvienient. Does get you through some 'once or twice in my lifetime' situations tho.

--->Paul

[DONOTDELETE]

If you plan on purchasing a hydraulic top link, then you might want a second set of remote auxiliary outlets available. I added a hydraulic top link two weekends ago and already would like to add a cylinder to the rear blade. A set of hydraulic, height adjustable, rear tracking wheels on the box and rear blade would also be convenient. Two sets of outlets should cover most needs. It was a mistake not getting the second set.

[froggy]

Would someone please explain the difference between a "self canceling detent" and "float detent" on rear remotes?

I have looked through many threads but cannot find anything.

Thanks for any input.

[Dozernut]

A self cancelling detent is a valve, I'll use a log splitter as an example, that will shut it's self off at the end of the cylinders stroke. A float detent is a valve that if you place in this position, will not lock up or hold the cylinder rod. External forces will be able to move the piston in the cylinder, example- a bucket following the lay of the ground.

[froggy]

Thanks for the explanation. The reason I asked this is because I have been looking at various tractors as a replacement to my current old IH (1960's era) and know that I will need rear remotes and Kubota offers as standard a self canceling detent and the option of adding either another self canceling detent or a float detent.

From your explanation, it sounds like I should add a float detent if given the choice. That way I could operate a variety of rear implements. Am I correct in this assumption?

[Dozernut]

Sounds like you have got it figured out. Thats what I would do if it were me. Good luck!