Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter

   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #1  

Labrador Coaster

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Nov 12, 2011
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HARRINGTON HARBOUR
Tractor
Linde Hyd, winch
Hello Gentlemen,

I was looking for info last week and came across your wonderful forum, I have been enjoying all the varied topics every since.

I have a commercially built hydraulic winch that I use to haul ashore my boat every fall - (18hp. twin B&S with Linde motor, Pullmaster drum winch), works great.

My plan was to install my freshly built log splitter onto the winch ( Use the motor and pump).

I tow my firewood logs home by boat ( no roads...), haul it ashore with the winch, then saw/split it up. We cut in the winter using snowmobiles.

Yesterday I made the connections, and it worked, but there are issues...

- The oil turned white -water?? ( you can see a small jar with some oil in one of the pics)

- The recycled cylinder (36'' stroke - 2''shaft, 4'' dia.) makes noise in both directions.

- I have to have the selector valve engaged on the winch in order for the splitter to work.

BTW, I have since moved the hose going to the splitter from where it is in the pic to directly off the pump - using a T. the return is plumbed into the top of the reservoir. ( it didn't make a difference regarding the selector)

Any advice or comments would be appreciated.

thanks,

Wilson
 

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   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #2  
Yes, definitively looks like water. I would drain and refill and change the filter.

You don't normally tee off a pump unless you have some shut off valve somewhere. The components in an open center system should all be in series.

The noise you hear is probably the relief going off.

Your valves should have PB to function and be safe.
 
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   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #3  
AY CARAMABA LUCY!!!!!!!!


You need an open center gear type flow divider to feed
oil to the log splitter and other functions/winch to avoid the
rats nest you have there and the issue with strapping the
valve open which is a big N0, NO!


You never, never, never T a pump unless it goes directly to a relief
valve to tank.
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #4  
You need to go through the routing of the hyd fluid from the pump through both valves and correct some things.

Why not just install a selector valve and choose which unit to operate, or get the correct valves and put the circuit in series.

Prince makes a log splitter valve with log lift which would be ideal. Same valve will do log splitter and winch.

Is that a galvanized fitting on the top of the log splitter valve? If it is the return line going to the tank you might get away with it, but if it is in the high pressure circuit, you might have some trouble at any time.
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#5  
There must have been water in the old cylinder, which now has probably contaminated the entire system. I can't imagine that this is good for the hydraulic components. Best way to flush the entire system, drain the reservoir, refill, then remove returns from reservoir and pump until clear?

Sorry, my knowledge of Hydraulics is limited, you mentioned PB, does that mean I could connect other apps. to the selector valves have ''power beyond'' Both of my selector valves are single lever, the one on the winch is spring loaded, (thats why I have to have the bungee cord holding it open I realized something was wrong with the installation of the T because the winch no longer worked when the splitter was connected, but when I popped the guick connect ( which essentially blocked the flow to the splitter, the winch rotated.

The noise sounded like it was coming from where my pad was getting scraped along the I-beam, it was only when I detached the push pad and cycled the cylinder did I confirm that the sound was coming from the cylinder. Is that where the relief valve is located?

My apologies for the rather rudimentary questions
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #6  
There must have been water in the old cylinder, which now has probably contaminated the entire system. I can't imagine that this is good for the hydraulic components. Best way to flush the entire system, drain the reservoir, refill, then remove returns from reservoir and pump until clear?

Sorry, my knowledge of Hydraulics is limited, you mentioned PB, does that mean I could connect other apps. to the selector valves have ''power beyond'' Both of my selector valves are single lever, the one on the winch is spring loaded, (thats why I have to have the bungee cord holding it open I realized something was wrong with the installation of the T because the winch no longer worked when the splitter was connected, but when I popped the guick connect ( which essentially blocked the flow to the splitter, the winch rotated.

The noise sounded like it was coming from where my pad was getting scraped along the I-beam, it was only when I detached the push pad and cycled the cylinder did I confirm that the sound was coming from the cylinder. Is that where the relief valve is located?

My apologies for the rather rudimentary questions




Hello Wilson,

Do not apologise for the questions at all.

The issue is the proper pumbing to avoid
getting your head blown off or being injured fatally
by an oil puncture injury.

Your winch diverter valve is dumping to tank apparently as
the winch valve is an open center valve.


Your system relief appears to be hidden by a hose in
the pictures you have so kindly provided.

About your oil; you need to drain the entire system
and physically remove the hoses one at time to drain
them and remove the cylinder to drain the oil from
the cylinder.

How close are you the North Shore and Labrador Rail Head?
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Looks like I received your last 2 responses while I was typing mine ( type too slow...).

Yes I may have to look at reconfiguring. Just to be clear, the RAts nest was not my doing, it all is part of the ''professionally built'' marine winch unit.

But I agree, I have studied it with my limited knowledge and wondered why it is so complicated.

Yup, it is galvanized piping on the bottom connection also, which is the pressurized side, I will change it.

I ran out of 90 elbows, wanted to ''Git er done'', everything has to be ordered by mail order here, takes weeks..

thanks Guys,
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #8  
How many GPM's is your pump producing, and what is the pressure. Install a pressure gage and test and set the relief valves.

Your valves probably do not have PB, so it is not a good idea to put them both in series.

You could separate the two valves and use a selector valve to select which unit you want to use.

Yes, PB means power beyond, and takes the flow from the pump and passes it along to a downstream valve.

Valve with PB.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7861&catname=hydraulic

This is a selector valve.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6133&catname=hydraulic

You could get a log splitter valve with PB and install the log splitter first and then add the winch valve, as the winch valve will now go to tank.
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #9  
Hello Wilson,

My apologies for the rats nest comment,
apparently they were not willing to use
gear type flow dividers to simplify things


If you could upload a few more
detailed pictures detailing the winch
and main pump that would be big help.

You would benefit with three 2-section gear
type flow dividers to contol the winch
and provide fluid power for the log splitter
and reduce the amount of plumbing you have.
 
   / Hooking a hyd. winch to a log splitter #10  
Hello Wilson,
My apologies for the rats nest comment,
apparently they were not willing to use
gear type flow dividers to simplify things

Unless he is going to use both the winch and the splitter at the same time, he will get faster cycle times from the splitter and higher speeds from the winch using power beyond valves.

Aaron Z
 
 
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