How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor #11  
Nice job Piston! Do you think the "true" 3rd function kit is truly any better than a diverter valve for the curl circuit of your FEL? After using my grapple for several years, I cannot think of a time I needed to curl my grapple at the same time as actively gripping something. It's always one or the other.

I really like your four remotes. It's far better to have too many than ever have too few.
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Flusher,
I like that clean install on your Mahindra, that's a nice setup you have. I wish mine 'looked' a little neater and more factory! Not to mention I have more than $700 into this just doing it myself. :laughing:


Jinman,
I can't say whether or not it is better or worse, or just more expensive, to go with the 3rd function over a diverter. I've never used a diverter before so I don't know from first hand experience.

Alright, on to the next step..... I know this write up is taking forever... :laughing:
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor #13  
Alright, on to the next step..... I know this write up is taking forever... :laughing:

Good things take time! Great post and pictures Piston:thumbsup:
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Hose #2 - New valve PB port to 3pt

This hose is going to continue the PB circuit, and plug directly into the 3pt hitch supply port. If you back up a bit, to before I changed any hyd hoses whatsoever, my system went like this....

FEL PB > 3rd function solenoid IN > 3rd function solenoid PB > 3pt.

Now that I have my valve inline, it will go....

FEL PB > 3rd function solenoid IN > 3rd function solenoid PB > new valve IN > new valve PB > 3pt.

So all I'm doing is placing this 4 spool valve inline that same circuit. The only difference is, I'll have an extra hose to deal with (the OUT which I'll get to next) well, not including the other 8 hoses that go to the remotes :laughing:

Back to business....
The PB port of the new valve was a SAE #10 port(1st pic), (from what I understand, the sizing goes in terms of 16ths. So SAE #10 is like saying 10/16ths, which for us math wizards out there, equals 5/8ths. Thanks Mrs. Danforth, I owe you:D)
I used a Tee fitting/adapter to go from the SAE #10 to 1/2" JIC male, to screw my 1/2" hose (with 1/2" JIC female fitting) into my PB port of the valve (wow that sounds confusing) and ran that hose back into the 3pt hitch, which is at the block under my operators station.

The 1st pic shows the PB port of the new valve. Picture my 90* SAE #10 > 1/2" JIC adapter here. SAE 37ー Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90ー Elbow

The 2nd pic shows the hyd block before I plugged in the PB hose from the new valve.

The 3rd pic shows where I plugged in the new hose, from the PB port of the new valve. As you can see, I need to add some protection there, it's only a matter of time before this hose gets ripped off with all the forest work I do.

Hose #2 down!
 

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   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor #15  
Great pictures and write up. Thanks.
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#16  
HOSE #3 - OUT port of new valve to tank.

This one didn't exactly go as planned....:D

The OUT port of the new valve is SAE #8 (1/2"), actually all valve ports are, the only one that isn't, is the PB port as I mentioned, which is SAE #10.

The idea was to go from my OUT port of the new valve (the top, closest port in pic 1) and TEE into my return to tank line from the FEL, which is hard to see in pic 2, but it's the upper right port (I'm not 100% positive I remember this port correctly)

For this, I would obviously need a tee, which I ordered SAE 37ー (JIC) Swivel Nut Run Tee (all 1/2")
The only problem was, the one I ordered, had a male/female in the wrong spot, whatever I ordered, I needed the opposite. So I compromised a bit. I had ordered some extra hoses, and I happened to have an extra LONG hose, which would just about reach to my FEL valve, coming up through the bottom of the tractor. So what I did was, disconnect the return line coming directly out of my FEL valve, and use my TEE connection there, since the male/female all lined up correctly, and I TEEd in right there. (Pic 3 and 4)

Now remember I said it would "just about reach" IT DIDN'T completely reach. Since I needed to use the box blade up on my land in NH the following day, I didn't have time to order a new one, and there aren't many stores near me that supply fittings like this. So instead, I routed it down the side of my seat and along the operator station and up to the FEL valve. This is temporary and I am finally getting around to ordering the right Tee now that I'm doing this little review (and remembering I need the new tee!)

Teeing in to where I did, would be fine if my hose was a bit longer and would route without issues. Since it isn't long enough, it is cheaper for me to buy the $3.68 Tee than it is to order a new hose, not to mention easier, so that is what I will do. If memory serves me correctly, the only adapter I needed for this hose, was the SAE to JIC coming out of the valve. The others were all JIC already.

That pretty much does it for Hose #3, and finishes up the install of the valve itself....FINALLY :laughing:

Tomorrow I will post how I installed the remotes themselves, and the hoses. From here on out though, it's just making up a bracket to mount the QD's to, and decoding all the different thread types, then connect the 8 short hoses.

I hope this all makes sense, I have a gift of making even the most simplistic jobs sound extremely confusing... :D
 

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   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor #17  
Piston,

I see you have a 3pt log splitter. How would you connect the hoses?

Might I suggest if the log splitter valve does not have PB, to connect the return /out port to the OUT/return tee at the remote valve.

Seems like that everything you have done is working out good for you.
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Piston,

I see you have a 3pt log splitter. How would you connect the hoses?

Might I suggest if the log splitter valve does not have PB, to connect the return /out port to the OUT/return tee at the remote valve.

Seems like that everything you have done is working out good for you.

J. J.,
I'm not sure if the log splitter valve has PB or not? I don't think it does but not sure. What I'm doing now, is plugging the Log Splitter into one set of remotes and holding the valve open with a bungee cord. This wasn't my original plan but it's the way it worked out. I don't like it like this though as doesn't seem to me like it's the 'right way' to do it, and I like things to be right. :D

I'm going to change this in the future, but probably not until next fall. However, I'm on the fence about keeping my 3pt hitch splitter, I may end up selling it and buying a dedicated self contained model. So if I do that, I won't change anything.... :D
 
   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Next step.... Make a bracket and mount the rear remotes.

I had some aluminum angle iron (well, I guess it's not called angle iron if it's aluminum?? I don't know what its called, aluminum angle aluminum? :laughing:)

I had two scrap pieces of this mystery name angle stuff laying around so I thought I would use that.

I laid it out so I would have 4 QD ports in each piece of...... I'm just gonna call it a 'bracket'...

This would give me 2 full sets of rear remotes per bracket, and one mounted on each side of my ROPS, for a grand total of 4 rear remotes. One side I will use for Top and Tilt, the other side will be used for any extra hydraulics I'll need back aft.

The first pic shows the bracket I'm using, with scribed pencil lines where the QD's will be mounted.

Second pic is the holes drilled and ready to insert the first adapter/fitting.
(I'd really like a nice drill press some day!)

Third pic shows the first set of fittings I used. Since my QD fittings have female NPT thread (NPTF) and my hoses and many other fittings are all JIC, I used JIC to NPTF bulkhead fittings. Male Pipe (NPTF) x SAE 37ー Flare (JIC) Bulkhead (1/2" on both ends)

Fourth Pic, is with the QD fittings installed. I used this paste for the NPT connections Hydraulic Hose Fittings | Teflonョ (PTFE) Thread Sealing Compound

5th pic shows the bracket, the bulkhead fittings, the QD fittings, and finally the 90* JIC to JIC elbow, which my hoses will connect directly to. SAE 37ー (JIC) Swivel Nut 90ー Elbow (again, 1/2" on both ends)
 

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   / How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Next, I mounted the two brackets, and connected the hoses.

Now, you would think by looking at the pictures, that I drilled a hole through the ROPS, and insterted two bolts per bracket to secure them, using washers and nylock nuts. However, since (as everyone on TBN knows) you should never drill a hole through your ROPS, I of course didn't do that....

What I actually did was....I used two sided sticky tape to secure the brackets to the ROPS, and then, I glued 2 bolt heads and 2 nuts per bracket, to the bracket and ROPS, to make it LOOK like I drilled through the ROPS to install the brackets. :D

SO, there is no need to warn me about the dangers of drilling a 3/8" hole through my ROPS, since that isn't actually what I did. :D
It just appears that way :thumbsup:
 

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