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  1. #31
    Bronze Member WilcoKubota's Avatar
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    Jan 2012
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    The Netherlands, Sneek
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    Kubota B1402

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Piston,

    Couldn't you better put the long 90ー fittings at the front of the valve and the shorter at the back? Or did it had a reason what I missed?
    That's the way how I would do it.
    Nice writeup, whit good pictures .

    Wilco.
    Last edited by WilcoKubota; 04-07-2012 at 07:01 PM.

  2. #32
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Central MA, Lakes Region NH
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    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Quote Originally Posted by WilcoKubota View Post
    Piston,

    Couldn't you better put the long 90ー fittings at the front of the valve and the shorter at the back? Or did it had a reason what I missed?
    That's the way how I would do it.
    Nice writeup, whit good pictures .

    Wlco.
    If I remember right, I think one of my problems with having 4 of the same fittings side by side (tall 90's in front, and all short 90's in back) was trying to get the hoses and hose fittings to 'fit' into the valve. I believe the nuts on the hose fittings would hit one another, so in order for me to do that, I would have to have tightened up all the hoses with the valve spools all apart, then put the valve together. I can't remember exactly though.
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  3. #33
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2000
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    588
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    Tully, NY (Syracuse)
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010HST

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Thanks for the write up. Can you help me sort out the uses for the different types of valves?

    Why spring return on some?
    Why float detent on others?
    Why three position for splitter?

    Thanks,
    Kevin

  4. #34
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410

    Default

    Kevin,
    The spring return to center is a basic valve, it can't do anything 'special'. When you push the valve forward all the way, then release it, it automatically returns (via spring) to the center position. Same as when you pull the valve back and let go.

    The valve with Float detent is the same as the 'spring return to center' except it has an additional 'special' function. It will act the same as the last one mentioned but when you push it all the way forward, and then a little more, you will go past the 'detent' in the valve, what this does is hold the valve open, so fluid is allowed to freely flow.
    You probably have a float position on your loader, (at least many do).
    I chose a detent valve because I wanted to add top n tilt and in order to get the most functionality out of your top n tilt, you need to be able to 'float' the cylinders. This means the cylinder is free to move in and out while the valve is in detent.

    The three position valve can Be held in three different positions, this would be useful with a log splitter or backhoe for instance, as they need full flow to the implement since it has it's own valves. What you would do is hook up your splitter to the corresponding quick connects and then when you are in position to split some wood, you would open the valve so it would be constantly supplying fluid to the splitter. Since the valve is a three position valve it will remain open on it's own, until you close it. This is essentially the same thing as having power beyond. Actually, it IS power beyond, your just doing it differently.

    Hope that helps, let me know if I confused you even more.
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  5. #35
    Platinum Member
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    588
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    Tully, NY (Syracuse)
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010HST

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Thanks Piston,

    Is there a downside to the valves with the detent float or could you just use those for all the valves?

    Is the three position valve the same as the spring return valves except it doesn't have the spring return?

    What types of implements would you want the spring return, the float detent or the three position.

    I'm thinking of adding some valves and want to make sure I buy the correct kind.

    Thanks,
    Kevin

  6. #36
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Is there a downside to the valves with the detent float or could you just use those for all the valves?
    Not that I can think of, aside from it being a little more expensive, but not much in the grand scheme of things. I figure if you have it you don't HAVE to use it, but if you need it it's there, however, if you don't have it and you want it...well, your out of luck Then again though, I don't see any need for all 4 of my spools to have detent, but it wouldn't hurt.

    I would prefer a mix, where I have 2 spring return to centers, and 2 with float detent, I wish I put in a 3 position valve so I could hold it open when I use my splitter, right now I have to bunjee the valve open, and I don't like that. I went through all this work to make everything right, and have to use a bungee, it just looks "half assed" when I'm doing it that way. I may change this in the future...if I don't end up buying another tractor in the next year or so anyways

    Is the three position valve the same as the spring return valves except it doesn't have the spring return?
    I believe it still has the spring return, but I could be very wrong on that, I think it just has the ability to "stay put" in all 3 positions. Someone else will have to comment on that though.

    What types of implements would you want the spring return, the float detent or the three position.
    Spring return if you don't ever see a need for any of the others, it is the 'base model' of the valves.

    Float detent, I use it most for my top N tilt. Lets say for instance your using an implement (ex. landscape rake over uneven/changing terrain that you don't want to tear up, or a rear blade when plowing your driveway of snow) When I do something like this, I put my side link in "FLOAT", this way, when plowing for instance, the blade will always be flat on the pavement, and it won't tend to lift one side. My driveway is slightly down hill when leaving, and it is perpendicular to the street, which is also a hill. SO... when I use the blade to plow my driveway, and I'm getting to the end of my driveway where it meets the street, my tractor will start to follow the natural hill of the road as it enters the road, whereas my blade is still on the driveway, so the blade stays flat, think of it like it's now on a sort of swivel and is allowed to rotate slightly independent of what the tractor is doing.

    It's hard for me to describe but that's what comes to mind. ALso, if your raking out hilly terrain and don't want one edge to 'dig in' and one to lift when one side of the rake hits a small hill, then keep it in float, then it will ride over the top with one side of the rake. These are just a couple examples that I can think of.

    A nice feature of the float function on the top link, is when I back up to an implement to hook it up, i put my top link in float, then when i'm hooking up my implement, I can push/pull the cylinder by hand to the correct length I need to hook up that top pin, makes quick work out of it.


    I'm thinking of adding some valves and want to make sure I buy the correct kind.
    I think it would be easier if you described what your needs/wants are and what your initial thoughts are, then we could give you some advice based on that.
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  7. #37
    Silver Member heviduty's Avatar
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    central NC
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    Kubota L3400HST/LA463 loader JD 318 / 3ph(cat. 0)

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    I cannot tell you how much I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I joined this forum because of your thread about adding hydraulic remotes. It was exactly what I was looking for.

  8. #38
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Heviduty,
    Glad it helped

    Have you added hydraulics to your tractor yet or are you still in the planning stages?

    What are your plans?
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  9. #39
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Oh ya, and welcome to the forum!
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  10. #40
    Silver Member heviduty's Avatar
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    central NC
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    Kubota L3400HST/LA463 loader JD 318 / 3ph(cat. 0)

    Default Re: How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

    Piston,
    Thanks again to you and everyone else on TBN who share your knowledge and experiences with those of us who sorely need it

    I do not really need the tractor, but have wanted one for years and couldn't pass this one up (besides that, the wife finally gave in). It pushed all the right buttons for me; low hours, 4wd, HST, 30-40Hp., loader.... I will use it to keep up my dirt road and haul wood and brush, etc. (I have been known to drive it to the mailbox). After all, I have a whole acre!

    To answer your question, I am still planning. The 4 stack valve is ordered and should be here Monday. It will have 3 float and one detent. Planning will center around how and where it gets mounted.

    I also want to add a grapple to my loader bucket. I am thinking about a Tatro add on. Original plan was to use a 12 volt double selector valve, but a call to Fasse has me questioning that route, because of something called regenerative hydraulics my LA463 dump/curl circuit is blessed with. Seems it tends to prevent selector valves from releasing. Alternative would be to use boom circuit but I'm not keen on the idea of switching hydraulics on a loaded boom. Anyhoo, new plan involves electric over hydraulic.




    Any and all suggestions will be appreciated and duly mulled over.

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