Help with Loader Valve IH 2400 and Cross SBA22

[J_J]

I was simply trying to talk you into a regular loader valve with float and poss regen. Sure, the new valve will work. It just will not have float.

A good many people use float quite a bit.

There is a way to get float on the lift arms, and that is by adding this small valve to the lift circuit.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7899&catname=hydraulic

Connection would be similar to this.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Drawing/DR9-1064.pdf

 

[alchemy]

I was simply trying to talk you into a regular loader valve with float and poss regen. Sure, the new valve will work. It just will not have float.

A good many people use float quite a bit.

There is a way to get float on the lift arms, and that is by adding this small valve to the lift circuit.

Surplus Center - 20 GPM 1/2" NPT FLOAT VALVE PRINCE SS-2B1D

Connection would be similar to this.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Drawing/DR9-1064.pdf

Good info. Thanks again JJ. You are surely an asset to this forum.

 

[alchemy]

I was simply trying to talk you into a regular loader valve with float and poss regen. Sure, the new valve will work. It just will not have float.

A good many people use float quite a bit.

There is a way to get float on the lift arms, and that is by adding this small valve to the lift circuit.

Surplus Center - 20 GPM 1/2" NPT FLOAT VALVE PRINCE SS-2B1D

Connection would be similar to this.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Drawing/DR9-1064.pdf

As for float, I've never been clear on what that actually is. I thought I knew at one time but as of a few years ago I'm not sure. My pretty ford 3000 has been broken down in the shed for about 5 years and I've been using a belarus 250 with down pressure. I do a lot of back blading. I'm sure both have float but I don't know if that's what I'm using or not. For smoothing I just pretty much drag with the weight of the blade or with some down pressure. For removing a hump I might do in reverse with the blade backwards but I have to watch what its doing or it may dig way too much.

 

[J_J]

In float mode, the bucket sits on the ground and follows the contour of the ground.

The lift arms and bucket are free to move up and down.

 

[alchemy]

In float mode, the bucket sits on the ground and follows the contour of the ground.

The lift arms and bucket are free to move up and down.

so would it be "limp" as if you could move it up and down by hand? If so, then now I wonder what "non float" is, except for when I apply down pressure. My IH and ford have the draft lever which maintains a height. The belarus which is the one Ive been used to lately has always been kinda weird. the hyydraulic lever seems to have 3 or 4 positions and another lever I never use. I gotta find my owners manual and check that out.

 

[alchemy]

In case anyone ever needs to know I got in the seal parts for the check poppet for the original IH loader valve from the dealership. I mainly ordered them so I knew they were the exact parts because I tried ordinary o rings and it still leaked badly and as I said before they were missing from a previous owner so I had little idea what they actually looked like.
The first seal toward the bottom appears to be a common o-ring but thinner than usual , probably buna -n or viton.
The second seal is like a common o-ring but thinner than usual. I assumed it should be thicker but maybe thats why the normal o-rings got mangled everytime they were installed.
The ring between that o-ring and the reataining ring
is flat and is diagonally split and is like some kind of hard fiber or plastic, like kynar or something.
The retaining ring is just a wire ring about like paper clip metal. It is initially larger than the plug and the hole so I assume it is installed like a piston ring and then snaps out when it reaches the groove down in the hole. Problem is, I don't know how you could ever get it out because I don't see any access to that ring once it's in. I must be overlooking something.
update: below, after I got done, I had found that the retainer ring actually goes on top of the whole thing.

 

[California]

As for float, I've never been clear ...

I wonder if you guys are talking right past each other.

JJ is talking about float on the front loader. This is especially useful for driving backward with the bucked down to do final smoothing. The bucket will follow uneven ground with only its own weight, no down pressure. The loader control has to have 'float' feature to do this.

This front float controlled by the loader's control isn't related to float on a back blade which is controlled by the 3-point lever.

 

[alchemy]

I wonder if you guys are talking right past each other.

JJ is talking about float on the front loader. This is especially useful for driving backward with the bucked down to do final smoothing. The bucket will follow uneven ground with only its own weight, no down pressure. The loader control has to have 'float' feature to do this.

This front float controlled by the loader's control isn't related to float on a back blade which is controlled by the 3-point lever.

I haven't used a front loader yet but I assumed float would mean the same front or back. But since you put it that way absolutely I think I will need float for the loader. Also, if float just makes it "limp," not being controled by hydraulics, free to fall with it's own weight or raise with humps only because the hump is pushing it up, then I guess that means there is fluid pressure constantly and it needs diverted for float? So there is no hydraulic pressure to the cylinders when set to float?

 

[J_J]

alchemy,

Since you mentioned something about about a loader in your first post, I thought we were talking about a loader valve.

Most all 3pt system have float as most don't have down pressure and therefore the T-N-T system, which will give down force.

 

[alchemy]

I put the new OE seals in the original loader valve and NO LEAKS!
I had to think for about a half hour and inspect closer because I had been sure that the retainer ring was supposed to go in the hole on top of the split flat ring but I was wrong. The reason I was wrong was because there is a groove at the top of the hole that was filled with part of the old ring that had been shaved off and it did not look like a groove there, just a flat surface. Anyway, the ring holds the whole thing in place just like a lot of things that use a retainer ring or circlip. Of course the long top bolt thru the whole assembly would keep them from blowing out if the ring failed.
As for it sealing, I guess the main problem was that the o-rings I was trying and the guy before were too fat and they would bind and mangle. With the new OE ones it went in so easy I didn't think it was going to seal.
Below is a couple more pics with the new seals.

I tried the loader some but it got too dark to take out and check float etc. this evening. It never once dropped before raising when re engaging up after setting in one place for a bit. It had about 200# of dirt in the bucket. Everything seemed to work OK so far except that it drops real fast when pushed for down.