PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP

   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #11  
What model tractor is it?
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #12  
As long as you can remount the existing valve in a location that allows full movement of the levers there is no reason why simply buying longer hoses and remounting it wont work.
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #13  
I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

If you want to use a normal joystick valve,and keep the old valve, then you would take one of the hoses and run them to the new valve and lock the current valve open on that spool only. This will supply fluid to the new valve.

A new valve would also give you float and regen.
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #14  
J_J said:
I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

You're right. Not sure what I was thinking. That does complicate things now doesn't it.
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #15  
The plate is called a manifold, hyd and is part # 9613790. Cost is $184.12 from MESSICK'S. There web site is Messicks.com. I would call them to make sure it will fit your tractor. I bought mine 3 - 4 years ago. Of course the price has gone up! . You can then get a loader valve from Surplus center or Northern Tool. It will need a power beyond plug. You will need 3 hoses - 2 to go from the loader valve to the manifold and one to go from the loader valve to the fill plug behind the seat. 4 hydraulic couplers should do it. All this of course if it is a Ford and the manifold will fit your model. You Cannot relocate the current valve - there are nine hydraulic holes in it plus the 4 bolts that hold it on. If you take it off you would need the special cover that covers them all up and it would be of no use to you.

Bob
 
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   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Sawdustsmb
It is a 3000 Ford diesel
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP
  • Thread Starter
#17  
J_J,

Thank you this seem the easiest and the cheapest way to go, I truly appreciate it,
I bought the tractor w/ loader and a 6 foot bush hog, and after some final haggling I payed
$4000.00 dollars for everything. It's a diesel w/ p/s and runs and drive real good, of course
it needs a seat and some cosmetic work but I believe the price is ok which gives me
room to fix the control lever,

sincerely,
Duke
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

If you want to use a normal joystick valve,and keep the old valve, then you would take one of the hoses and run them to the new valve and lock the current valve open on that spool only. This will supply fluid to the new valve

A new valve would also give you float and regen.
The hose you speak of, is it one that is in the current valve body? And do I plug that hole ?
or do need 2 hoses to the new valve joy stick ? and return that hose to the old valve body?
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP #19  
I ran my snow plow using the control valve that way for years. I think you will need an open center loader valve. One other thought one reason for the manifold - at least on a 4000 and a 7600 - when you lock one of those levers open your 3 point hitch won't work so you will need to keep locking and unlocking when using say a back blade and a loader. On the 7600 It had a dedent so it would stay locked but everytime a loader cylinder went to the end of its travel it would kick off. But it is cheaper and easier. Good Luck - have fun In response to your last post - 2 hoses from the new joy stick to the old valve body. Or just plug them into the couplers in the back.

Bob
 
   / PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Thank you Bob
 
 
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