Adding Multiple Hydraulic Control Valves to the tractor

[kennyd]

Great work Steve, that is one sexy setup you have there :thumbsup:

 

[Baby Grand]

Really fine craftsmanship and nicely thought out.
I appreciate you sharing your thinking process and why you did what you did.
I'm going to reference this thread heavily when I add remotes & control valves to my machine.
Thanks for posting this valuable set of Lessons Learned!
-Jim

 

[TCJatko]

Well done! I am continually impressed with the ingenuity and fabrication skills of members of this forum.

 

[JD 4520]

Ever thought about becoming a Deere engineer? Very nice work and beyond my tools!

 

[BukitCase]

Steve, I'm getting ready to do a similar setup on my old AC 160 (only has one remote) -

I'm confused enough on fittings, can you take me thru one complete hard line connection from valve to remotes, what actual fittings you used, and why?

Please, no more acronyms - FF could be at least two different connections I've come across in 3 days of internet research.

Also, you mentioned brazing - are there no swage-type fittings available for this, or did you just want more peace of mind?

The QD's I need to match have female NPTF 1/2" and I found bulkheads that are NPTF male by JIC 37 degree, I THINK I've found a nut/sleeve combo that will connect to male JIC's but won't know for sure til the sample I ordered shows up. I WILL be using Loctite hydraulic thread sealant on all the NPTF connections.

I'm getting too old to play contortionist, so will be mounting the valve assembly on the flat fender to my right on an L-shaped plate - the QD's will go on the 90 deg. rear section of this plate, facing to the rear. All hard lines between valve and rear plate, not looking forward to the necessary bends but, like you, don't want a fat bundle of snakes either...

Appreciate any clarification on your fittings... Steve (nice name, huh??!?)

 

[BukitCase]

(bump) - Furu, sorry to be somewhat of a pest - just need to know what fittings you used for each run from your valves to the qd's for the 1/2" od tubing - thanks... Steve

 

[Furu]

Steve, I'm getting ready to do a similar setup on my old AC 160 (only has one remote) -

I'm confused enough on fittings, can you take me thru one complete hard line connection from valve to remotes, what actual fittings you used, and why?
Please, no more acronyms - FF could be at least two different connections I've come across in 3 days of internet research.
Also, you mentioned brazing - are there no swage-type fittings available for this, or did you just want more peace of mind?
The QD's I need to match have female NPTF 1/2" and I found bulkheads that are NPTF male by JIC 37 degree, I THINK I've found a nut/sleeve combo that will connect to male JIC's but won't know for sure til the sample I ordered shows up. I WILL be using Loctite hydraulic thread sealant on all the NPTF connections.
I'm getting too old to play contortionist, so will be mounting the valve assembly on the flat fender to my right on an L-shaped plate - the QD's will go on the 90 deg. rear section of this plate, facing to the rear. All hard lines between valve and rear plate, not looking forward to the necessary bends but, like you, don't want a fat bundle of snakes either...
Appreciate any clarification on your fittings...

Sorry I did not get back sooner.

I am currently out of the country and wanted to make certain that I supplied you accurate information by referencing the correct documentation.

Having said that I will try to give you accurate info from my memory and referencing the Discount Hydraulic Hose and Surplus Center web site. I believe this is accurate but as I am not with my documentation I may have a slip up somewhere.

I will use abbreviations but will give definitions of same below.

SCV - Spool Control Valve
a.k.a
4 SPOOL DIRECTIONAL CONTROL VALVE
WOLVERINE by PRINCE WVS series monoblock directional control valves. Features cast iron construction, load check, built-in adjustable pressure relief, open center, side or top outlet port and vertical or horizontal handle mounting.
Can be converted to closed center or power beyond with the addition of a power beyond sleeve (Item # 9-7998-PB)

Nice discussion on thread types can be found here.
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

ORB O-Ring Boss SAE O-Ring (O-Ring Boss) are straight thread fittings that
seal using a O-ring against the machined seat on the female port

ORFS - (O-Ring Face Seal) fittings have a straight thread and a flat face with an O-ring groove machined in the flat face. Occasionally called flat face (FF) fittings for short. Not to be confused with Flat Face Quick Disconnects.

-08 is common nomenclature for 1/2 inch hydraulic fittings especially if SAE thread. See link above for more info.

The SCV work ports are #8 SAE ORB also called -08 ORB.

General details
I went from a -08 ORB male/-08 ORFS male fitting to a hard line on which each end had a -08 nut and sleeve, then to a -08 ORFS male/-08 ORB male fitting to the quick disconnect.

Specific details

1. Hydraulic fitting out of work ports was a FS6400-08-08 (not a Parker number but just about any hydraulic guy knows what that part number is.) It has a -08 ORB male on one end and a 1/2 inch or -08 ORFS male on the other end.

2. The hard line tubing had a brazed on tube sleeve FS319-08 with a tube nut FS318-08 to attach to the male ORFS listed in #1 above. These were on each end of the tube.

3. The tubing I used was .065 inch wall steel hydraulic tubing in #2 above. I could have gone thicker wall but that would have been much harder to bend and specs for it were more than adequate for the pressure that I run in my system.

4. The other end of the hard line attached to another FS6400-08-08 fitting on the ORFS fitting side which was then attached to the ORB female quick disconnect.

The in and out lines were -10 or 5/8 inch and have similar fittings but since you only asked about the work ports I only gave fitting numbers for them.

I like JIC fittings a lot but I also like ORFS and ORB. I did not have a flare tool that would do JIC flares on hydraulic tubing, much harder than copper and copper flare tools are relatively cheap where the others are not. The people that have hydraulic tube flare tools charge a lot to amortize the cost of buying them in the first place. If you only had one or two might be worth doing however. I had 20 fittings that would have had to be flared. Flare costs would have been several hundred dollars raising my overall costs by 20-25 percent just due to outside labor.

Reference your question: "are there no swage-type fittings available for this"

There is a Parker fitting (may be others similar) called Ferulok. (The Ferulok fitting is a flareless fitting that consists of a body, a one-piece precision machined ferrule, and a nut. On assembly, the ferrule "bites" into the outer surface of the tube with sufficient strength to hold the tube against pressure, without significant distortion of the inside tube diameter.)

I chose for cost to go my way, but Ferulok will work just fine.

 

[BukitCase]

Thanks for the detailed run-down - I have the discount hydraulic info and have ordered some samples of things I think may work - if all else fails, it'll be a good reason (read "excuse") for a small TIG machine to go with my gas, stick, mig and plasma stuff :=) the stuff I ordered should be here in about a week, including a 4-stack Prince valve with 2 normal and 2 float cylinder spools and a hyd. toplink.

At least, winter shouldn't be boring - I'll be able to fab pretty much everything in a warm dry place and then just drill a couple holes and bolt it on. I'll try to remember pix so I can start a new thread when there's anything to report.

Thanks again... Steve

 

[mjncad]

Excellent work Furu! I like how you spaced out the QD's so you can operate them with gloves on.

 

[JordanFTW]

Nicely Done!