Pitted Cylinder Rod: Repair or Replace

[KY Gun Geek]

Been searching and can't find clear guidance on this.

Equipment is a Shaver post driver.

The top 18" or so of an 6' - 8' rod is pitted. There is a single cup seal in the top of the cylinder which is leaking badly. I know the pitted dry rod was allowed to be dragged through the seal while the unit was being moved, and the unit is about 25 yrs old (no wonder it is leaking).

I can clean up rod and replace seal ($11.50 in parts) and try it, but this thing is a PITA to take apart and reassemble (heavy) so I don't really want to do that. I need to make a decision...

Comments here go something like "hit it with some emery cloth and change the seals", which makes sense, but obviously, there is a limit - once the rod is pitted "enough", you gotta replace it (or at least rechrome it). So how much is too much?



I have attached a pic, maybe it will help.



Thanks!

 

[Scooby074]

"there is a limit"

And your way past it

If that section rod goes past a seal at any time, it'll pretty much ruin it.

That rod needs to be replaced or rechromed if you want to try and keep seals in that cyl.

 

[Soundguy]

probably cheaper to repalce the rod than rechrome .. and it would be near impossible to fill pits anyway.

if it was a worker.. i'd hit it with 800 paper, then 1000 then 2000 then steel wool and replace the seal.

 

[puckgrinder85]

If you have to remove a lot of material to get it ok you still need to think about the rod and the bushing used to keep it riding true in the seal isnt going to cause issue. Too much and the rod will walk around and the seal cant seal it well enough to prevent a leak anyway.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Get a brillo steel wool soap pad and scub it well using water. This gets the rust off w/o abrasion. I think it wont look so bad after that and it will not be rough. A new seal may weep a little but will last. Mine was similar and has held up for years after cleaning and a new seal. You should not need to disassemble the driver - only take the cap off the cyl. The seal is in the cap.
larry

 

[Gale Hawkins]

How many hours a week do you plan to use and for how many weeks out of the year?
SPYDERLK's idea will help prevent cutting out the new $11.50 seal.

The cylinders on the old backhoe stabilizer pads are really gashed and look bad but both lift the rear just fine to max height if not trying to life the full weight of the tractor rear/hoe.

 

[wdchyd]

I like to do the fingernail test to determine damage......after clean-up if you can feel it with your fingernails, then the seal will feel it too

I think also you've gone past the point of repair and should look into replacing the rod.......the bigger trouble may be the rusted/frozen gland.....hopefully it is easy to disassemble

 

[Gale Hawkins]

wdskyd only if it is a high spot? Seals I do not think can fill the low places.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I like to do the fingernail test to determine damage......after clean-up if you can feel it with your fingernails, then the seal will feel it too

I think also you've gone past the point of repair and should look into replacing the rod.......the bigger trouble may be the rusted/frozen gland.....hopefully it is easy to disassemble

The only gland is the rod seal in the cyl cap.

 

[wdchyd]

wdskyd only if it is a high spot? Seals I do not think can fill the low places.

If it's a high spot it will slice the seal instantly.....if it's a low spot (corroded chrome) it will allow oil to pass under and eventually wear the seal rapidly

It's a balance of "fit & finish"....if either or both are not good then the seals will not hold up