another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics

[dbelser]

Hi guys, although this is my first post, I have been a member here for a while and you all have been of great help. But now I need some specific help. I have made a log splitter to hook up to my 1986 JD 2950. I have done so much research and simply cannot find a definitive answer about the proper way to hook up the hydraulics. Honestly, I usually don稚 give this kind of stuff much thought because we only have one piece of equipment that runs off hydros, but I want to do this right. I was given a 4x24 hydraulic cylinder, that I believe was bought from TSC. Anyway, I am curious about hooking up a separate valve to control the hydraulics for the splitter, but I do not know if that will work with my tractor having a closed center hyrdraulic system, can anyone shed some light on this, but explain it like your talking to a 10 year old?
It has 4 ports on the back with two control valves to the right of the seat ( I do not know if that was standard from JD or not, but it was like that when I bought it). It would be nice to be able to have a separate control valve for the splitter instead of using the ones on the tractor, but I just don稚 know how it can work otherwise. Also, I am wondering what size hydraulic lines and fittings to run, or if that even makes a significant difference so long as they are strong enough.

[J_J]

If you use tractor hyd, you will need a closed center log splitter valve on your log splitter.

If you use a PTO hyd pump, you can use an open center hyd log splitter valve.

You could also plug in the cyl hose into the remote outlets and power the cyl with the remote valve, but it really is not practical. and it would be a slow process and tedious to go from wood to lever, back and forth..

If the remote valve is locked down, that outlet becomes a continuous source of fluid for the log splitter, and an open center log splitter valve will work. Not that efficient.

Connect the remote outlet to the IN port of the log splitter valve, and run the return to the tank.

[oldnslo]

With closed center hydraulics you can use a closed center remote valve on your splitter. If your 2950 has automatic detent kick out you will have to tie the lever on your tractor in position.


Connect one of the tractor quick disconnects to the pressure port of the splitter valve.
Connect the other tractor quick disconnect to the tank port of the splitter valve.

NOTE: To protect the splitter valve you may want to install a check valve in the return/tank line to prevent accidental reversal of pressure and tank to the splitter valve. Most valves have limited pressure capabilities in the tank core.

NOTE 2: If your tractor has a line direct to tank use this in place of the directional valve QD for the tank connection.

Size of lines depends on flow in GPM. In theory you can run lower pressure line for the tank line to save a few dollors.

[dbelser]

so will this valve work Chief 1 Spool Hydraulic Control 3 Way or 4 Way Valve - 1820128 | Tractor Supply Company

[J_J]

That valve is not a log splitter valve with detent return, but will work to move the cyl if you lock down the remote valve and provide a steady flow of fluid and connect the valve correctly.

You need a log splitter valve with detent return to neutral.

Why not get a closed center log splitter valve like this, and install it parallel to the other valves..

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL 30 GPM CLOSED CENTER LOG SPLITTER VALVE

Closed center circuits supply full pressure to the control valves, whether any valves are actuated or not. The pumps vary their flow rate, pumping very little hydraulic fluid until the operator actuates a valve. The valve's spool therefore doesn't need an open center return path to tank. Multiple valves can be connected in a parallel arrangement and system pressure is equal for all valves

[dbelser]

thank you for the response, I am just one of those people that hates to wait, but amazingly, a local hydraulic shop (alabama hydropower) had a closed center log splitter valve. I showed the tech the link to the valve you send me and he said this one has all the specs as the one in the link, except I think it is a 20 or 25 gpm.

The only thing the tech told me was to hook up a open quick connect to one of the ports on the rear of the tractor to see which port will deliver the pressure when the lever on the tractor is in the position I will be tying it down. I did this and hooked up the appropriate lines the valve. and it seemed to work.

however, I have 2 questions: 1. This may just be me, but when I tie the lever on the tractor down, the tractor boggs down a little, which I assume is normal since it does the same thing when I fully extend or close the cylinder on our bushhog, but is it ok to leave it like that?

2. After hooking everything up and running it for a second, all the lines and the remote on started shaking violently, so I took the tie down off and let it sit for a second, turned it back on and it happened again. It consistently happened each time, but each time the shaking would start later and later. any thoughts?

Now, on that last question, when running the tractor normally, I have recently noticed the steering would shake or vibrate if I tried to turn while idling, but this usually only happens when I first start it, and sometimes after its been running for a while. With my luck, I am sure there is something badly wrong, but i am hoping that it is just air in the lines or s

[Boostinjdm]

however, I have 2 questions: 1. This may just be me, but when I tie the lever on the tractor down, the tractor boggs down a little, which I assume is normal since it does the same thing when I fully extend or close the cylinder on our bushhog, but is it ok to leave it like that?

2. After hooking everything up and running it for a second, all the lines and the remote on started shaking violently, so I took the tie down off and let it sit for a second, turned it back on and it happened again. It consistently happened each time, but each time the shaking would start later and later. any thoughts?

Sounds to me like you should have got an open center valve for the log splitter so fluid could circulate freely. I would guess that the bogging and shaking you are getting now is from the pump having to build up enough pressure to open the relief valve and keep it open. I would suspect you will build up lot's of heat by doing this and shorten the life of at least a few components.

[dbelser]

well, I really hope that is not the case. Everyone i have talked to has told me that since my tractor is closed center, I have to have a closed center valve (although it does not make sense to me why it matters, but being that this tractor is technically my cousin's, I REALLY need to be sure I wont screw it up)

[Boostinjdm]

I'm not a hydraulics expert, but if that pump is moving fluid, it's got to go somewhere.

[dbelser]

haha you and me both brother, the pump and valve definitely work, that is to say when I engage the valve, the cylinder moves. Its the vibration that I am starting to worry about.