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  1. #1
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    Default Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    OK, new to tractors here, and have a very basic understanding of hydraulics, and none when it comes to the way it's used in the BX25.

    I'm thinking of buying an Enorossi BFT135 5'ft sickle mower from my dealer. The BFT135 that he has in stock (rare find!) does not have the hydraulic bar lift but I want to add that option. The difference in price between a BFT135 (no hydraulics) and a BFT135H (hydraulic lift) when purchased from Rossi is $300. He wants to charge me $650 to add it, and it's not something he will order from Rossi -- it's the service manager's own design so I was told by the sales guy. They tell me that I would have to remove the FEL when using the mower and that I need a remote and that's what he's charging me for, but the next time I talk to someone there they say the $650 is for the cylinder & hoses.

    I've been told from another dealer that if I get the hydraulic version of the mower, the hydraulic source will be from the FEL and that I would not have bucket roll while using the mower. The bucket roll control would now be the bar lift control. I could still raise and lower the bucket and do not have to remove the FEL.

    So who is right? And how should this beast be hooked up? I appreciate any help you can give to this poor confused farmer wanna-be. (And I'm real fuzzy on what a "remote" actually is.)
    Kubota BX25, FEL, Backhoe, Rossi 5-foot sickle mower, 54" E.A. Box Blade, 48" Howse Rotary Cutter, 9 Acres + 2 Ponds = Future Log Home Site. Some Experience and still learning.

  2. #2
    Super Star Member J_J's Avatar
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    Default Re: Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    I believe they are using a selector/diverter valve to shift the hyd from the curl circuits to the sickle mower cyl.

    That valve should be easy to add. Here is a valve that could be used.

    Here is how it works. Once all hoses are connected, and wired up, the curl will work normally with no voltage applied. When 12 v is ap plied to the selector valve, the joystick lever sideways will control the sickle mower.


    Surplus Center - 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE

    Is the sickle bar driven by the 3pt or does it have it's own hyd motor?

    A remote valve would also be easy to install and control the sickle mower.

    Whatever you choose, we should be able guide you through the installation

    I looked it up to see how it operated.

    http://www.enorossi.it/eng/prod_barra_trattorino.html
    J.J.

    When I works, I works hard. When I sits and thinks, I goes to sleep.

    Git er done.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J_J View Post
    I believe they are using a selector/diverter valve to shift the hyd from the curl circuits to the sickle mower cyl.

    That valve should be easy to add. Here is a valve that could be used.

    Here is how it works. Once all hoses are connected, and wired up, the curl will work normally with no voltage applied. When 12 v is ap plied to the selector valve, the joystick lever sideways will control the sickle mower.

    Surplus Center - 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE

    Is the sickle bar driven by the 3pt or does it have it's own hyd motor?

    A remote valve would also be easy to install and control the sickle mower.

    Whatever you choose, we should be able guide you through the installation

    I looked it up to see how it operated.

    http://www.enorossi.it/eng/prod_barra_trattorino.html
    It's driven by the PTO. The 3pt raises & lowers the entire mower. The optional hydraulic cylinder changes the angle of the cutting bar, raising it to cut along the sides of a hedge row ( for example) or to lower the angle of the bar to mow along the bank of a pond (my purpose).
    Kubota BX25, FEL, Backhoe, Rossi 5-foot sickle mower, 54" E.A. Box Blade, 48" Howse Rotary Cutter, 9 Acres + 2 Ponds = Future Log Home Site. Some Experience and still learning.

  4. #4
    Super Member radioman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    no need to use diverter from FEL. If you can get a power beyond joystick - you can add it to the power beyond port of BH loop.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    Quote Originally Posted by radioman View Post
    no need to use diverter from FEL. If you can get a power beyond joystick - you can add it to the power beyond port of BH loop.
    That sounds appealing. Sounds like I would still have total control of the FEL. But can you be a little more wordy please? Like what do you mean "if" I can get a power beyond joystick? And what port of the BH is the power beyond port? I've never heard of that. And where would this joystick be mounted?
    Kubota BX25, FEL, Backhoe, Rossi 5-foot sickle mower, 54" E.A. Box Blade, 48" Howse Rotary Cutter, 9 Acres + 2 Ponds = Future Log Home Site. Some Experience and still learning.

  6. #6
    Super Star Member J_J's Avatar
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    Default Re: Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    What he is saying is that you can use a joystick valve at the back to control whatever.

    You rarely see joystick valves on the back as the remote valve.

    The OP only wants to raise the sickle blade on the mower.

    As far as the PB, if your valve has PB option, then you should use it.

    I think a three spool valve would be your best choice, and mount it on your right fender.

    Look here for the stroke you need on the cyl.

    http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...c&keyword=HCD3

    You will still have full use of the FEL no matter what you do.

    All valves should be mounted in series.
    Last edited by J_J; 02-05-2013 at 08:26 AM.
    J.J.

    When I works, I works hard. When I sits and thinks, I goes to sleep.

    Git er done.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Want to put a Rossi BFT135H sickle mower on a BX25.

    Wingsey:

    You have gotten good advice from all the respondents.

    But if it were me I would try the quick and cheap approach first because it is simple, you can do it yourself, and you have wasted little if you later convert to a more professional setup.


    I have only seen BX's at dealers, but yours probably has the front end loader joystick mounted on the side of the dashboard cowling with the four quick disconnects sticking up in front of the right foot rest. Two of those quick disconnects are for the FEL bucket. All you need to use them on a trial basis (in addition to the hydraulic cylinder you need in all events) is two sections of 1/4" hydraulic hose long enough to reach from the quick disconnects at your right foot to the cylinder on the mower.

    Discount Hydraulics is a site sponser and has everything you need.

    The bare bones is:

    1. about 20-25' of 1/4" hydraulic hose (you should probably measure)
    2. four "field installable" hose ends of the correct size

    One end of each hose will connect to a port on the cylinder and the other end will connect to an existing quick disconnect that you take off of the existing lines from the junction block at your right foot that go to the bucket on the FEL. I suspect that both the cylinder and QD's will have NPT (National Pipe Tapered) female threads or perhaps NPTF (National Pipe Tapered (Fuel)) female threads. DH's web site has booklets you can download to determine what kind of ports you have on the cylinder and QDs.

    For any of the ports (ie., cylinder or QD) that are pipe thread, also get a male x female 90deg elbow so that the hoses don't stick straight out from the cylinder or the QD block. IF the ports are JIC male (the book will let you identify them) you can usually get a 90deg field attachable hose fitting that eliminates the need for an elbow.

    Don't use standard water pipe elbows; use the high pressure hydraulic fittings that DH sells.

    If you do have pipe threads and don't want hydraulic oil weeping from the joints, get a tube of hydraulics safe thread sealer. DH probably has it; if not it will be at Lowes or the hardware store.

    Now you just have to put it together.

    You (almost) can't cut the hose with a hacksaw because it has one or two spiral layers of hardened wire in it; a thin abrasive disk on a hand grinder works best; next best is a 7 1/4" abrasive disk on a hand circular saw (messy and apt to draw blood if you try to hand hold the hose).

    After cutting the hose to length, clean it out by running mineral spirits or kerosene through it and then blow it out with an air hose; you must get rid of the abraisive particles created when cutting the wires.

    Install the hose end fittings. IF instructions do not come with them, Parker-Hannifin has an online site with lots of good info.

    Before you disconnect the QDs from the junction block (right footrest) to the bucket, with the engine off work the joystick side to side until the bucket rotates down as far as gravity will take it. You will need to first lift the bucket off the ground with the booms before killing the engine. Now that the pressure is (hopefully) off the bucket lines, disconnect the bucket QDs and remove the female QD ends from the hydraulic hoses going to the bucket. Wrap the hose ends with tape/cloth and secure them to the booms (they will probably drip, but don't worry about it).

    Then put the QD's on your new hoses. Use thread sealer if these are pipe threads.

    Hook the other end of the new hoses to the cylinder.

    Now hook the ends of the new hoses with the female QD's to the male QD's on the junction block that used to serve the bucket. It does not matter which hose is connected to which outlet on the junction block; the connection only affects which way you have to move the joystick for the mower cylinder to retract or extend. If you don't like the way the joystick has to move, just reverse the QD connections.

    Now I realize there are two disadvantages to this method: 1. you have those two hoses snaking from your right footrest to the cylinder on the mower, 2. the FEL bucket is inoperative. But if you don't mow a lot you might find this tolerable. If so, you will still want to get a second set of female QD's to permanently attach to the bucket hoses to avoid the hassle of shifting one set of female QD's between two sets of hoses.

    If you later decide to add a separate hydraulic control valve for the mower cylinder, you will still need the two hoses, and you can shorten them yourself if needed because the field installable hose ends are reusable. And you will probably need the QD's, plus some stuff. So none of your initial material is wasted and you learned something in the process that may help you make a better decision on the more elaborate setup.

    Good luck. And send pictures whichever way you go.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmerford View Post
    Wingsey:

    You have gotten good advice from all the respondents.

    But if it were me I would try the quick and cheap approach first because it is simple, you can do it yourself, and you have wasted little if you later convert to a more professional setup.

    Etc, Etc, Etc
    Man, now THAT'S a reply I can sink my teeth into. Thanks so much for spelling it out for me. It's just what I wanted.

    I'm going to return to the dealer with a copy of this and tell him to get it done. I could probably do it myself, eventually, and then again maybe not. Anyway, I don't want to. I just want this sickle mower on my tractor cutting the banks of my ponds.

    Thanks again.
    Kubota BX25, FEL, Backhoe, Rossi 5-foot sickle mower, 54" E.A. Box Blade, 48" Howse Rotary Cutter, 9 Acres + 2 Ponds = Future Log Home Site. Some Experience and still learning.

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