W.R. Long vs DIY 3rd function?

[jshwhite]

I'm wanting to add a 3rd function on my FEL for a grapple. I've got a L3710 with no remotes anywhere, so I'm starting with just the FEL valve (it does have PB). I like the kit the W.R Long has, but can I save $$ if I piece together my own kit? Would it be worth the trouble, or is it better to just go with W.R Long?

Thanks for any suggestions

 

[teampryor]

you can build your own for less than half the cost of the wr long. Without any electrical components which are expensive to replace and are the weak link in a third function set up.

 

[J_J]

Some of the people will tell you to only go with the WR LONG kit. It does however cost about $680.

You can find products equal to that setup. Here is something for your consideration.

Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

Surplus Center - 1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

 

[jshwhite]

you can build your own for less than half the cost of the wr long. Without any electrical components which are expensive to replace and are the weak link in a third function set up.
View attachment 303882
View attachment 303883

Looks simple enough. Is it just plumbed in the PB line? Can you explain how you did it and what parts you bought?

Thanks

 

[spruce Deere]

Like that 3rd func. valve install teampryor Room for such is an issue on some tractors, like on my jd790.

I agree on the electric over hydraulic stuffs as "just something elts to go wrong". But in some cases its easier to run wires and a switch as the only feasible way room will allow.

 

[jshwhite]

Some of the people will tell you to only go with the WR LONG kit. It does however cost about $680.

You can find products equal to that setup. Here is something for your consideration.

Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

Surplus Center - 1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

On top of this, what can I expect to spend? Never bought hoses/fittings, etc., so don't know how much they run.

Is there somewhere else I can find the "joystick" control like Long has?

 

[J_J]

If you want to go with a manual valve as teampryor said, just make sure the valve has PB port and everything is connected in series.

The solenoid valve mentioned above can be switched with a push button. The IN and OUT ports of the DO3 subplate can support about 5000 psi.

The solenoid valve would be mounted in a convenient place, in series with the PB from the FEL valve and then to the remote if you have them.

You can use both the solenoid valve and the FEL valve at the same time if the FEL valve is not using all the pump flow.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've had an electric diverter on my 7520 for about 8 years now, no problems of any kind. It provides the luxury of being able to operate the diverter without having to take my hand off of the loader control lever. :thumbsup: That is a bit harder to do when you have all manually controlled valves. If you want to track everything down yourself, you can do it for about half or what the average pre made kit runs.

Good luck with your decision, whatever it may be

 

[jshwhite]

Yeah, I really think I'd rather have the electrical control. I've run them on skid steers and like it.

So... in addition to the solenoid and subplate what else would I need?
For hydraulics, I'm thinking short hose/connector from PB to valve, hose from valve back to PB hookup on tractor, two hoses/connectors out to FEL.

For controls, where to find a joystick?

Anything else I'm not thinking of?

 

[J_J]

Do you have a FEL now, and is it a manual valve.

Here is a joystick valve with PB.

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE.

Surplus Center - BRAND POWER BEYOND KIT

Hose from FEL PB to IN port on subplate and hose from subplate OUT to the next valve, and two work port hoses to the grapple. Keep in mind that the grapple will be fast unless you needle valve the flow.