Hydraulic Top Link "Homemade"

[Xfaxman]

In a do-over I might have lengthened my extension on the cylinder another 1". I'd like to be able to tilt the top of my quick hitch a bit farther away from the tractor. Otherwise works great.

If you don't need more travel, as in longer stroke, this will work, and easy to remove when not needed:


From TBN 8-4-2007 by BobQ: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/105421-extended-top-link-pats-ezchange.html

 

[ovrszd]

The fully extended picture looks as though it is not extending enough. Or is just my eyes. Either way good job

Yeah, that's why I commented about making it an inch longer in a do-over.

 

[ovrszd]

The last one I made is too short for my 9540 and it seems your tractor project(s) and mine are the same, you just get to it before me. (your skid plate/grill guard) now top link:laughing: It seems that the TL I made for my JD 5400 is way short for the new Kub. I was thinking of a 16"-18" cly stroke. I saw where you would add 1" if you were to make another one, but would you like to have more stroke? I really like the hyd TL for mowing just as you mentioned. A lot of my mowing is more like "clearing", and I'll lift the mower as high as I can with the TL retracted (on the really tall stuff) back over it then lower the mower to mulch it up, repeat. Mowing over a bank, the TL needs to be fully extended, there fore I like to make the "normal" (vertical) position having the cyl half way extended through it's stroke for equal movement in either direction. I really like following your projects as they are usually on my to do list too! That's a NICE mower there, I have an 8' pull behind for the "nasty" stuff & am thinking about converting it to 3pt. now that I have enough tractor to hold it up! What ya think about a longer stroke?
The pic shows the legnth of my factory TL against the last TL I made for the 5400jd

Rusty, the problem with a 16-18" stroke would be your collapsed length might be too long. You wouldn't be able to lift your cutter as you described. I think you could get by with a 12" as Brian suggested. That would have lengthened my collapsed length by an inch and gave me two more inches extended. That might have been the ideal setup.

I'll use the crap outta this one thru the Summer and by Fall I'll know if I need more stroke or extended length.

Next project is to add 3rd remote and set up a hydraulic side link. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

If you don't need more travel, as in longer stroke, this will work, and easy to remove when not needed:
View attachment 306930 View attachment 306931

From TBN 8-4-2007 by BobQ: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/105421-extended-top-link-pats-ezchange.html

Oh Great,,, now I gotta build one of these!!!!

That's a great idea, thanks for the tip!!! :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Look at your top link at the tractor end, I believe that you have a 3/4" dia cat 1 pin holding it on. Yes the implement end of the 3pt hitch is cat 2 only, but the tractor end of the top link is cat 1. I can even see this in the picture with the top link next to it.

Brian, I was dumbfounded when I discovered that on my tractor. I've looked that over several times and can't come up with a mechanical reason it had to be that way.

So when I built this top link I welded on a CAT II end because I didn't want to need the cylinder for some other application and not be able to use it as CAT II. Then I use the CAT I-II bushing that came with the tractor. Go figure....

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Rusty, the problem with a 16-18" stroke would be your collapsed length might be too long. You wouldn't be able to lift your cutter as you described. I think you could get by with a 12" as Brian suggested. That would have lengthened my collapsed length by an inch and gave me two more inches extended. That might have been the ideal setup.

I'll use the crap outta this one thru the Summer and by Fall I'll know if I need more stroke or extended length.

Next project is to add 3rd remote and set up a hydraulic side link. :thumbsup:

If you don't mind your hitch being just a bit lower, an 8" stroke cylinder works very well. Cut off the ends of your side link and weld em on and you will be good to go and you will still have the good clevis. Are you planning on getting the 3rd OEM remote,(prefered) or you can go with an electric diverter? (easy)

Just wondering

 

[ovrszd]

If you don't mind your hitch being just a bit lower, an 8" stroke cylinder works very well. Cut off the ends of your side link and weld em on and you will be good to go and you will still have the good clevis. Are you planning on getting the 3rd OEM remote,(prefered) or you can go with an electric diverter? (easy)

Just wondering

Thanks for the tips Brian. I was wanting to not destroy my factory side link in case I wanted to use it again. Biggest problem is the top end of the side link is pinned with I believe a 15/16" pin. So if I buy a cylinder it'll be 3/4" or 1". Not sure what to do about that yet. Your suggestion would overcome that obstacle. Also was kinda inclined to swap the adjustable factory link to the left side and do away with the left side fixed link for more versatility?

I'll add OEM 3rd remote. Haven't priced that yet, probably will scare me.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the tips Brian. I was wanting to not destroy my factory side link in case I wanted to use it again. Biggest problem is the top end of the side link is pinned with I believe a 15/16" pin. So if I buy a cylinder it'll be 3/4" or 1". Not sure what to do about that yet. Your suggestion would overcome that obstacle. Also was kinda inclined to swap the adjustable factory link to the left side and do away with the left side fixed link for more versatility?

I'll add OEM 3rd remote. Haven't priced that yet, probably will scare me.

That was why I mentioned the diverter option. When you check on the OEM valve, be sure to check on one with the float function. You want to have the float function available for your side link. The pin is 7/8" and you can bush down from 1" without any problems. Just get another top link end and use that. Switching the links around is what I always recommend. Do you have a press to be able to bend up a lower clevis or will you just weld a clevis up? :confused3:

 

[ovrszd]

Do you have a press to be able to bend up a lower clevis or will you just weld a clevis up? :confused3:

I've got a 50 Ton press but I'll probably just build one from flat bar. I want to retain the ability to let the side link float like the lower end of the factory link does.

Thanks for your suggestions Brian.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've got a 50 Ton press but I'll probably just build one from flat bar. I want to retain the ability to let the side link float like the lower end of the factory link does.

Thanks for your suggestions Brian.

If you get the OEM remote with the float function, there is no reason to have the slot in the clevis. You would then have a redundant feature. And I believe that the valve with the float function is less $$ than the self canceling valve. Plus you can then have the pin hole up closer to the closed end of the clevis and you loose nothing by using the 8" stroke cylinder.