Kubota cylinder retainer bolt

[uspowers]

Greetings
I've a leak in the dipperstick cylinder on my Kubota 4530B backhoe.
I've tried everything to get the retainer nut out of the cylinder barrel.
It's the 2" x 1/4" face spanner nut.
I tried a torch but was afraid to go too hot.
Any help appreciated.
Bob

 

[kennyd]

Have you tried a big impact wrench? Those nuts are typically torqued to hundreds of ft/lbs.

 

[uspowers]

Have you tried a big impact wrench? Those nuts are typically torqued to hundreds of ft/lbs.

It's not a regular nut.
it is the threaded retainer at the end of the cylinder barrel.
It sits flush (a tiny bit recessed) with the end of the cylinder and has 2 x 1/4" blind holes 180 degrees from each other.
The only thing I can do is put a pipe over the spanner wrench for leverage, but the pins slip out of the retainer.
Bob

 

[pjbci]

You could try a hammer and punch. Gonna distort the holes but works for me.

 

[kennyd]

It's not a regular nut.
it is the threaded retainer at the end of the cylinder barrel.
It sits flush (a tiny bit recessed) with the end of the cylinder and has 2 x 1/4" blind holes 180 degrees from each other.
The only thing I can do is put a pipe over the spanner wrench for leverage, but the pins slip out of the retainer.
Bob

Ah OK, its the "gland" or "packing" nut, I was thinking it was the nut on the end of the rod holding the piston on. Sorry for the cornfusion Bob!


Have you soaked it with PB Blaster of another penatrant?

Edit: Are you sure it's a RH thread? Probably is...

 

[uspowers]

Weather is not good here today.
I've been soaking with PB blaster.
I'll try the torch again.
I've been holding off on the hammer & punch as a last resort, i agree it will make a mess of the holes.
I'll post results.
Thanks
bob

 

[wdchyd]

Make sure the hyd rod can be twisted easily (otherwise the rod is bent and will be tough to loosen the gland)

using an air-impact hammer on the face while using a spanner wrench will help too.......if it needs more, then spin the cyl around in the vise and hold the 1/4" wide gland in a strong vise and rotate the barrel (you'll need a big strong vise and support the barrel level with the vise)

using a torch heat up end of cyl barrel (not gland directly) evenly and gradual......if it's getting too hot, walk away, let cool, then reapeat.......sometimes the heat/cool cycle will help due to thermal expansion and the gland will cool down slightly smaller than the barrel

 

[SPYDERLK]

The impact hammer is a good idea. I would instead employ it on the cyl surface directly outside where the gland screws engage. TURN THE POWER DOWN and, holding the hammer tip located with gloved hand, use a short burst at 3 pts equally spaced. This will disturb the "nut"/"bolt" thread interface and help break the bond that has formed long term. - It will also stretch the metal slightly increasing the circumference of the nut/cyl. The gland screw may then be removable. If not, use different equi spaced impact points [and maybe more power] if you repeat. Short bursts only ... pull the trigger all the way in and let it go immediately - about 10 blows.
larry

 

[wdchyd]

The impact hammer is a good idea. I would instead employ it on the cyl surface directly outside where the gland screws engage.........

the only problem with this is if the cyl barrel is thin (like most all kuboata cyls) and the OP gets a little rough......he'll likely distort and damage the threads and never remove the gland if this happens......if impact is needed on the outside of the barrel then I use just a regular hammer to the outside while using the spanner

Using the air-impact hammer parallel to the hyd rod (slightly tilted counter-clockwise) will give the same shock benefit without any distortion of the threads.......and the end of the tool can be slightly pointed to dig in without any harm

 

[uspowers]

Got it!!
Perserverence and PB Blaster are the ticket.
I think soaking in the PB Blaster over time and hitting with a hammer ultimately got it loose.
Thank you all!
Bob