Installing 3rd Function Hydraulics - Electric over Hydaulic

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

It started out simple enough. I needed to add a function to my tractor for a grapple. So I launched a thread here and my journey began. Installing a third function is relatively easy and requires only basic mechanical skills and the ability to do some light metal fab. I know you can get a kit. But if you get a kit, you have to install it anyway. So I figured if I had to install it anyway then I would just buy the parts and do it myself and save some cash. In the kit you are paying for someone else's homework, which may be fine if you are short on time or don't care to learn, but if tractor ownership is where you are at, then learning about hydraulics is a plus.

I only had one main goal (besides adding an additional function) and that is to have a factory (or better) looking install. That precluded a kit since you will simply get a generic mount and hose routings. That also precluded having someone else do it because unless I can see work you've done, then I am not going to be able to see if you can do a clean install until after its all done...too late then.

So I am going to outline my install in hopes that others will see how easy it is and have the joy that only DIY can bring. My disclaimer: I am no hydraulic expert at all. I am just a regular guy who wanted what I wanted and wasn't afraid to go for it. Hopefully you can too.

I first selected a valve. For my open center system and true third function I needed a 4 way 3 position solenoid valve with a spring to center. Here is briefly what all that means.

There are two solenoids on each end of the valve, the black cylinders. Those are operated electrically to rout the fluid to the proper place. A look at the bottom of the valve shows 4 ports (ie 4 way). One is IN and the one across is OUT. The two on the sides are controlled by the solenoids and direct flow to either of the two control hoses that will operate your double acting cylinder when you push your control button. The valve is set up with a spring to center. That means whenever no choice of solenoid is made (ie no button is pushed) the valve returns to center and the fluid returns to tank and closes off the two side ports. So that gives it 3 positions. Left, Right, or Center. In function terminology that would be opening, closing, or holding.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

On the bottom of the valve goes an aluminum block that serves to rout the fluid to the proper hoses. For my install I needed a D03 subplate. This block has 4 threaded connections on each side and 4 ports on top that correlate to the 4 ports of the solenoid valve. By bolting these together you now have an interface to control your hydraulics with the valve acting as the brain and the block interfacing with the hoses. I had to find a place to put this on my tractor that was not in a dangerous place to be knocked off by a tree or log. I selected an area under the steering column behind a metal kick plate. I drilled mount holes for my mount plate.

A simple 90 degree mount was made out of steel and bolted to the valve and subplate. It was dry fitted to verify fit.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

I now measured my hose links to my existing hydraulic system. I needed to connect the Power Beyond line from my loader valve to the P or IN side of the subplate. I then ran a hose from the T or OUT side of the subplate back to where the Power Beyond line originally went. You are simply placing this valve in the middle of the line.

Here is what the valve, block, and mount looked like when I got the hose fittings attached.

Now I tried a dry fit on the tractor with hoses.

I decided to run my lines to the front of my loader on the opposite side of the factory hydraulics because I wanted to run them through the loader arm and it would have a been a super tight fit to try. You can see the two lines that will run to the loader in my hands. I am putting quick connects here so that if the loader ever has to come off I will disconnect here.

My Power Beyond line was long so it connects directly into the valve subplate with only a 90 degree fitting.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

Now, I needed a hole to exit the loader for the hoses to come through. So here comes the fun part. Cut a hole in my brand new tractor. Wooohooo!

...and now lets paint the raw metal. Rust is not our friend.

Beautiful.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

I then ran a piece of romex wire through the loader arm to measure the length of hoses needed to go to the front. I also used this same piece of romex to pull my hoses through on the install.

Now it was time to permanently install the valve and hose connections with the quick connects on the end and test for leaks.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

With the valve installed and no leaks in the system its all going pretty well. Its now time to wire up the valve to power. The control of this valve is simple. I takes a Single Pole Double throw switch to operate. At this point though, I just wired it up and touched the contacts to verify that the solenoid was firing. I wired my power off of the horn. It had a 10 amp fuse. The first picture shows the valve pre-wired before install.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

Now its time to run the hoses through the loader arm.

I used the nylon protective sleeve to guard the 3/8 hoses from wear on the moving loader arm. I then fabricated a simple mount out of a piece of scrap angle and connected the hoses to it. It is welded on to the hose guard on the loader arm.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

At this point I am really liking the install. Everything is cleanly attached and nothing is sticking out. Here is what the underside looks like with everything wired and connected.

Now I have to come up with a way to control the valve. I looked at the offerings for sale and I was very disappointed. They either looked like something off a gaming joy stick from NASA and very over-priced or something with no ergonomics. This is a tractor. I want to look like it goes with the tractor. This is not the Millenium Falcon. I admit I spent the larger amount of my time wrestling with how to make this happen.

I knew I wanted a rocker switch so I looked for controls that I could adapt that had this functionality. Winch controllers use this functionality. The problem came because the way you hold a winch controller is not the same way you hold a lever control to operate the loader. So with no other options, I chose to make my own. I bought a shifter knob for an automobile stick shift in black. I then bought a momentary rocker switch with the proper specs. I carefully chose my hand position and then carved the hole and set and wired the switch.

irsmun · Nov 22, 2013

Now to wire it in and check functionality. I ran the wires down the control arm and into the boot.

From there I encased the wiring in black wire wrap. It worked (and looked) grand. But we cannot leave the wire showing on the control arm. I used a piece of black vinyl hose to protect the wiring and give the control arm a finished look.