Exploded diagram for Vicker pump off Ford NAA

[jlgurr]

I did some calling around locally. Basically it is an old part number of the current V20 confirmed by at least 2 sources. There is a local 1 man shop that will rebuild it for at most 2 hours of shop time and $28 for a seal kit. (total of $158.00) probably less in time but that is the high estimate. The big unknown is the hard parts and how quickly they add up to the cost of an equivalent replacement.

I'd bet you would be sticker shocked on a new pump. My father-in-law had to buy a Char-Lynn (sp?) motor recently and it was outrageously high.

Now that I have the diagram I will probably open it up myself...then go from there.

Thanks for your help.

That's just one of a few reasons I joined TBN, to be of help to someone out there. Have a blessed day and good luck with your pump.

Jeff

 

[CJONE]

I did some calling around locally. Basically it is an old part number of the current V20 confirmed by at least 2 sources. There is a local 1 man shop that will rebuild it for at most 2 hours of shop time and $28 for a seal kit. (total of $158.00) probably less in time but that is the high estimate. The big unknown is the hard parts and how quickly they add up to the cost of an equivalent replacement.

Now that I have the diagram I will probably open it up myself...then go from there.

Thanks for your help.

I usually charge a hour, the pumps have a cartridge kit, shaft, bearing, and shaft seal. About 1/2 the time a bearing and seal is all they need. Do it yourself. Pull the cartridge, with it standing on end take the 2 screws out, pull the top plate off and slide the outer ring up off the rotor. Now look at the plate on the inside for scuffing/wear along with the end of the rotor [thing that holds all the vanes] leave the rotor upright so the vanes do not fall out, they are directional. You can wrap a rubber band around them if you want or use grease to hold them in. If the rotor, port plate and inside of the ring do not have any wear you can put it back together and flip it to check the other plate. Ring wear will have chattering or grooves in the inside of it. If all is good put the screws back in and just LIGHTLY snug them, this lets the cart align itself when reinstalling in the case.[the case hold the cart together] Look at the bushings in the cart where the shaft goes through, if you see wear in the shaft or bushings they need to be replaced and you have dirty oil, that needs to be addressed if that is the case. Pull the retaining clip out of the case and tap the bearing/shaft assy out. It usually goes from the outside in. Old units you can get the seal out from the outside but I have not seen one in years. You may have one with that old of a tractor. They are very easy to do and your cart will have ### on it for GPM and a arrow for rotation. That helps in IDing the unit. CJ

 

[jlgurr]

Now there's a DOUBLE portion of help. Dontchya love TBN members!

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[skylarkguy]

Yes, yes i do. I'll be tearing into it tomorrow. Got to spend time with the wife tonight. Don't want to make her a tractor widow.

 

[skylarkguy]

Well I got it apart today. Pretty straight forward per CJ's instructions and the exploded diagram. It looks pretty good for an old pump in my opinion. The old seal is kind of hard, not exactly brittle but not that great. A bit of scoring on metal parts but nothing outlandish. There is one spot on the ring that isn't great. The outer sealed bearing needs to be replaced the inner rides in hydro fluid and is in great shape. The shaft looks ok. I got a bearing for $8 at the local bearing house. The seal kit is ordered and will be here tuesday. Total should come in under 40 bucks. Here are some picts. IF anyone sees anything questionable please let me know.

Just FYI a rebuilt for this application would be $480 plus a core charge. Given that is nearly a quarter of what i have into this tractor total...that doesn't really pencil out for me...

 

[CJONE]

That ring is shot. It at least needs a ring and vanes. That pump is old enough that you have to replace individual parts. Pump looks as if the body is also the end plates/port plate. CJ

 

[oldnslo]

I agree with CJone: That cam ring is in bad shape and should be replaced.

 

[skylarkguy]

Well, that's a bummer. Any reconditioning I could do to in in the mean time?

I was quoted $496.51 for a new cartridge kit, plus freight. I could get a re manufactured pump for $557.00 minus $76.00 core charge for a total of $481.00.

So anyone have a good source for less expensive pumps? An eaton v20 is pretty much the same pump.

 

[oldnslo]

Try contacting Attica hydraulic exchange: 800-422-4279.

They rebuild Vickers vane pumps and also have a line of their own which is basically a direct interchange to Vickers. You will probably need a valid model code for them to help you.

 

[skylarkguy]

Great. Thanks. I checked surplus center too they may have options. I might just try putting this together with just a new seal. It was pumping when I took it apart (leaking too)., maybe it will run for a little longer and I can do further research into options.