Yanmar 1500D hydraulic fluid leaking.

[Victory51]

Have a Yanmar 1500D, with the 2TR15 engine and I am having a hydraulic fluid leak coming from the starter. Don't know why it would be leaking hydraulic fluid from there unless I have a leaking line somewhere? If anyone knows what is causing this can you message me and inform me what is going on? Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

Trans input shaft seal may be leaking, filling up the bellhousing, and coming out the starter mount.

 

[Victory51]

Trans input shaft seal may be leaking, filling up the bellhousing, and coming out the starter mount.

I think that's the problem too but is this going to be hard to fix...have to separate the bellhousing from the engine, right. That is probably the easiest way or is there an easier way.

 

[Soundguy]

I have not done this repair on your style of a tractor but, typically, you split the tractor, and have to remove the trans input shaft from the front of the tranny, reseal, usually regasket the IS, then you check the clutch to see if it needs work, including throw out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing, also a good time to check the flywheel ring gear and rear main seal.

Note.. if oil built up that high, the clutch may be soaked. some survive with just a cleaning.. some get roached and swell or come apart and pile up...

I'm relating general info as I havn't been into a split yannie...but rater a bunch of older tractors and bigger tractors.

many tracors have a bellhousing drain that normally lets small amounts of leaked oil drip out and not accumulate.

lastly, I have seen some tractors that incorporate pumps at the trans input, and or hyds that run thru the dry bellhousing. ( Ford SOS have a pump up there for instance ).. so, just saying....

Have you been way overfilling the transmission? that will cause them to leak.

 

[Leejohn]

Wouldn't the clutch be slipping if oil is that high?

 

[Soundguy]

Wouldn't the clutch be slipping if oil is that high?

What would make you think that??

Worn clutches slip.

Dry clutches that are wet tend to swell, stick and/or become 'grabby'. Depending on the materials involved, some dry clutches will disintegrate when wet.. and then yeah.. they will slip if they wear down.. many times however they pile up when they come apart and you loose clutch action altogether pedal pushed or not.

If oil made clutches slip, you could never have wet clutches and wet brakes! MANY MANY designs use wet clutches and wet brakes. ( designed for it.. )

 

[Victory51]

I have not done this repair on your style of a tractor but, typically, you split the tractor, and have to remove the trans input shaft from the front of the tranny, reseal, usually regasket the IS, then you check the clutch to see if it needs work, including throw out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing, also a good time to check the flywheel ring gear and rear main seal.

Note.. if oil built up that high, the clutch may be soaked. some survive with just a cleaning.. some get roached and swell or come apart and pile up...

I'm relating general info as I havn't been into a split yannie...but rater a bunch of older tractors and bigger tractors.

many tracors have a bellhousing drain that normally lets small amounts of leaked oil drip out and not accumulate.

lastly, I have seen some tractors that incorporate pumps at the trans input, and or hyds that run thru the dry bellhousing. ( Ford SOS have a pump up there for instance ).. so, just saying....

Have you been way overfilling the transmission? that will cause them to leak.

Thanks for your input. Well the guy I bought this tractor from said he overfilled with hydraulic fluid but don't you think that this would have started to leak right away? I put about 30 hours on it before this happened. Don't you think this would have caused it to leak right away? This tractor says it doesn't have that many hours and I really am skeptical that the seal would have gone bad (only 93 hours) but this also may be faulty, don't know bought it used. If I drain some of the hydraulic fluid do you think this might work before I start to take it apart? Hope and pray this might cure it. Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

your message shows obvious signs of tractor newby-ism.

a yanmar 1500 is a pretty old tractor. whether the proofmeter is correct or not.. even if that seal only has 90 work hours on it ( doubtfull ), it's still likely old.

Couple that witht he fact that it may have had a clutch job before.. and if so, the seal may not seal 100% perfectly to hold a full sump of oil. Nominal oil level in a tranny is usually LOWER than the input shaft seal, and the seal pust prevents splash and elevation change casual leaks. filling her to the top and expecting a 70's tractor to hold oil is myopic thinking.

also.. as I mentioned.. there is usually a bellhousing drain.. id check to see if yours is plugged.

why didn't it leak earlier? it MAY have, and just took a while to FILL UP the cavity and then run out a non sealed area like starter mounting.

Could you get very lucky and open the bellhousing drain, drain out a couple quarts oil, remove starter and hose the bellhousing and clutch down with a couple cans of brake cleaner, and then adjust oil level in trans to nominal, and maybee it won't be an issue?

Maybee... maybee not.

The correct fix is as I previously detailed.

 

[Victory51]

your message shows obvious signs of tractor newby-ism.

a yanmar 1500 is a pretty old tractor. whether the proofmeter is correct or not.. even if that seal only has 90 work hours on it ( doubtfull ), it's still likely old.

Couple that witht he fact that it may have had a clutch job before.. and if so, the seal may not seal 100% perfectly to hold a full sump of oil. Nominal oil level in a tranny is usually LOWER than the input shaft seal, and the seal pust prevents splash and elevation change casual leaks. filling her to the top and expecting a 70's tractor to hold oil is myopic thinking.

also.. as I mentioned.. there is usually a bellhousing drain.. id check to see if yours is plugged.

why didn't it leak earlier? it MAY have, and just took a while to FILL UP the cavity and then run out a non sealed area like starter mounting.

Could you get very lucky and open the bellhousing drain, drain out a couple quarts oil, remove starter and hose the bellhousing and clutch down with a couple cans of brake cleaner, and then adjust oil level in trans to nominal, and maybee it won't be an issue?

Maybee... maybee not.

The correct fix is as I previously detailed.

Thanks for all your help. I will probably still open this up and make sure the clutch is good and replace all seals, take a look at the flywheel and if they need replacing I might as well do it since I have it opened up.

 

[Soundguy]

It certainly won't hurt to open the bellhousing drain and spray dry. You will be doing it if you split her.

If you get super lucky, you get some more use.

All depends on the clutch material and if it tolerates oil.. If yes, you coil be very lucky.. If no, then you can go in anyway.