Hydraulic Top Link came apart... Failed!

[teg]

I was actually heading back to the house to sharpen the blades under my mower deck when the tail wheel slammed to the ground. Glad I'm not having to post this in the safety forum (no one ever looks there!!).

So, is this just a matter of unscrewing the top and removing in order until I get to the "Nut" of the problem??

I assume I can not just stick the rod in and spin it until it catches... the nut needs to be tighten

How tight do I put the nut back on? Should I use Loctite when I reassemble?

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[CCWKen]

Yeah, you'll have to disassemble the cylinder and reinstall the piston and nut. I don't know the specs on your cylinder but the nut should be installed with an impact wrench. Who's the maker of the cylinder? That should never happen. Check the threads on the rod and nut to make sure they're not stripped.

If you don't have the means to hold the rod and tighten the nut, remove the cylinder and take it to a hydraulic shop. You can ruin the rod if you score it trying to hold it while tightening the nut.

 

[teg]

I was thinking I can clamp the Eye (very end). There is a slight damage to the threads, not sure if it's a problem (or if it might help hold the nut on). First 3 threads are mashed a little.

I honestly can not remember where I got the Top Link.... my guess, it was used and from someone off of Tractorbynet. (chit happens, I'm not worried about it but don't want to have it happen again).

I'm planning to fix it myself. So loctite and hydraulic oil??? No go? or go for it? (blue, most likely)

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PS. just before this happened, I noticed the piston was not straight so I did turn it a 1/4 turn to be straight.

 

[CCWKen]

Loctite will help but the mating parts need to be cleaned of all oil first. (lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc.) Once cured, it's oil resistant.

Use a thread file to clean-up the starting thread. Be sure not to cross thread.

 

[teg]

Will do, thanks...

PS. Not to change subjects but I Hate to admit that I've been under this mower (more than a few times) sharpening the blades... Will have to support it from now on.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Loctite 545 or Permatex 54540.. Made to work with hydraulic oils and not contaminate it.. Though, if I could, I would drill and tap for a flush set screw.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That unit came from Europe and is sold by many retailers. You can hold the rod using some wood in a vise. Clean everything up, I would have thought that there would have been a lock nut, but I guess not, use Loctite (I use red #569) and if you don't have an impact to use, then smack the wrench with a hammer once the nut is tight to give it that last little extra to really tighten it up.

 

[/pine]

That unit came from Europe and is sold by many retailers.

@Brian...I think I have the same cylinder...do you by chance know the size or # of the (rod end) end cap o-ring?

 

[Threepoint]

Yikes. I know you're planning to fix it yourself, but I'd at least take in in to a local hydraulic shop and let them have a look in person and give you a quote. They may see something we can't from picks. Looks like there are several down your way. The female threads may be damaged in the piston, and even if not, the gland seal should probably be replaced after what happened to assure no leaks. Rebuilding it now may not run you much. Even if you end up doing it yourself, doubt you'll know what parts to order without knowing more about the make. A shop would probably know what would fit off the bat.

Let us know how this turns out. Odd how it just let go like that. I've heard of this happening transporting a very heavy rotary cutter too fast over rough ground, when it got to bouncing up and down. Doesn't sound like you were doing that though!

Whoops, just noticed Brian's post. Brian knows!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

@Brian...I think I have the same cylinder...do you by chance know the size or # of the (rod end) end cap o-ring?

Sorry, never even seen one of them in person that I can think of. Was it leaking before? Unless it got damaged somehow, I wouldn't worry about it, but then that's just me. Easy fix (for me) if there is a problem.

Sorry that I can't help out more.

 

[/pine]

Sorry, never even seen one of them in person that I can think of. Was it leaking before? Unless it got damaged somehow, I wouldn't worry about it.

Sorry that I can't help out more.

it's leaking and I can't seem to find a fine enough one of the right dia....the original supplier want over $5 plus another $5 for shipping and they won't tell the the size or #...

Thanks for the reply anyway...

 

[coldsteelva]

I can't help with the busted link, but you appear to be missing the drive shaft guard.

 

[teg]

...Odd how it just let go like that. I've heard of this happening transporting a very heavy rotary cutter too fast over rough ground, when it got to bouncing up and down. Doesn't sound like you were doing that though....

Well to be honest, I was not going fast at THAT moment but I can not deny ever doing that....

Once I take it apart, I'll look it over good, inspect the seals and the nut. I have a hard time believing something bad did not happen... (strip the threads).

 

[teg]

I can't help with the busted link, but you appear to be missing the drive shaft guard.

Yea, that's how I roll, I treat the PTO like it wants to kill me, so I never let myself or anyone near it when it is running. Yea, I know the danger of not having a shield but I also don't trust the shield to save me either.... It's easy enough to turn the PTO off... so I really don't understand how someone would even be close enough to a running pto to get into trouble.

Beside, the rusted out, paper thin, see-thur deck is more dangerous than the pto shaft...

 

[teg]

Surprised how easy it was to unscrew the top off. My makeshift "tool" worked just fine. Have to wait to see if I have a socket at work to fit the nut... Everything looks fine.


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To pull the piston out, used a threaded rod and a couple of washers bolted to the end. Then, used the edge of the washer to helped pull the piston out. Used my grabbie thingie :confused2: to get the nut out...

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Removal and assemble went fine (minus the nut, for now) they had some monkey put the nut on with a pipe wrench(?)... Threads still look fine.

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[JRobyn]

I might be tempted to both red locktite that shaft/nut AND peen a spot or two on the rod threads with a center punch!

 

[teg]

...I would drill and tap for a flush set screw.

I can't do this...

I might be tempted to both red locktite that shaft/nut AND peen a spot or two on the rod threads with a center punch!

...but I can do this!! Great idea, thanks!

 

[LD1]

Wow, that was even a lock nut. Is the nylon still in it? Or does it look like the oil attacked it?

Not gonna try to quote all the posts I am replying to, but wanted to clear up some mis-information.

1. Loctite 545 is hydraulic sealant. NOT what you want for this application. I'd use red (permanent) stuff.

2. There are no threads in the piston. Only the nut.

Now as to keeping it from happening again,many many options.
1. Tack weld
2. Drill and set screw nut
3. Peen threads or stake the nut
4. Drill nut and rod and pin/cotter
5. Castle nut and cotter
6. Loctite
7. If enough threads...jam nut.

Lastly....and it's easy to forget.......put the cap/gland seal on before the piston. Assuming your rod eye is welded on

 

[teg]

Is the nylon still in it? Or does it look like the oil attacked it?


3. Peen threads


..put the cap/gland seal on before the piston.

Yes, nylon is there and is good...

Plan to use #3 Peen threads.

First thing I did was put the end cap on (but can see how people would miss that!!!)

Couple more question, how do you use Loctite and what I have below. Do you put it together wet or do you put it on the threads and let it dry first (before putting it together?)

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{edit} I really need to quit biting my nails...:duh:

 

[Midniteoyl]

Goes on wet, tighten, let dry..