zmansmac
Gold Member
About 12 years ago after adapting a snow plow blade to my loader arms I wanted to have a power angle for it but not give up my lift and curl functions. I knew nothing about hydraulics back then. With the help of people on this forum, especially MadReferee (may he rest in peace) I was able to add a valve to accomplish that.
It was a typical log splitter valve that cost about $90. Along with a couple of short hoses, some fittings, couplers and a home made bracket I had my 3rd function for the snow plow. The first picture below shows that valve mounted next to my loader control valve with hoses going off to my angle cylinders.
Years later I bought a hydraulic top link and also added an angle cylinder to my rear blade. I simply put long hoses on those cylinders to reach the 3rd function valve. It all worked fine but there were times when it would have been nice to be able to get on or off on the right side of the tractor but the hoses were blocking the way.
Fast forward to a couple of years ago and in my new home I'm now set up to plow snow using both my front blade (only needed to use the front blade at the previous home) and a rear blade. I also plow out a couple of the neighbors. Although 80% of the plowing is done with the front blade I have to unzip my soft sided cap and get out to manually angle the rear blade. So I decided I needed to be able to angle either blade from the comfort of my cab.
My first thought was to add another valve to control ports that I would have to install in the rear. But that would be cumbersome because I would want the valve near the two that I have now. It would also require a mod to my right side cab cover. But thanks again to the contributors on this forum I discovered the "selector" valve. They make manual ones but that would mean the same issues I have as adding another control valve. So I opted for a solenoid operated selector valve.
You can see that valve in images 2 and 3. I made a bracket to mount it that utilized a couple bolts on my brush guard. The selector valve is for double acting cylinders so there are 3 pairs of ports on it, one pair on each of 3 sides. I mounted it so the input ports face downward and using 90 degree fittings and two 2 foot long hoses to connect to the old log splitter valve. The ports facing up, which are active with the solenoid off, get my original male couplers that go the front snow plow cylinders. The ports facing the engine get 90 degree fittings and two 6 foot hoses that run underneath the foot platform and up around the inside of the wheel well to the rear remotes.
The remaining images show the rear couplers and hose routing. I originally thought about using solid tube but decided it was much easier to use hose. And using the double hose clamps that I also bought from Surplus Center made securing those hoses neat and easy. I had to make one bracket to mount a double hose clamp low enough so engaging the brake pedal would not rub the hoses. 12 volt power for the solenoid is provided through a toggle switch that I mounted on the side of my dash. So with the toggle switch, selector valve, hoses and fittings it cost me about $300. Well worth it IMO to stay snug in the cab in the winter and not have hoses blocking my right side in the summer when using my hydraulic top link and rear attachments that need hydraulics.
It was a typical log splitter valve that cost about $90. Along with a couple of short hoses, some fittings, couplers and a home made bracket I had my 3rd function for the snow plow. The first picture below shows that valve mounted next to my loader control valve with hoses going off to my angle cylinders.
Years later I bought a hydraulic top link and also added an angle cylinder to my rear blade. I simply put long hoses on those cylinders to reach the 3rd function valve. It all worked fine but there were times when it would have been nice to be able to get on or off on the right side of the tractor but the hoses were blocking the way.
Fast forward to a couple of years ago and in my new home I'm now set up to plow snow using both my front blade (only needed to use the front blade at the previous home) and a rear blade. I also plow out a couple of the neighbors. Although 80% of the plowing is done with the front blade I have to unzip my soft sided cap and get out to manually angle the rear blade. So I decided I needed to be able to angle either blade from the comfort of my cab.
My first thought was to add another valve to control ports that I would have to install in the rear. But that would be cumbersome because I would want the valve near the two that I have now. It would also require a mod to my right side cab cover. But thanks again to the contributors on this forum I discovered the "selector" valve. They make manual ones but that would mean the same issues I have as adding another control valve. So I opted for a solenoid operated selector valve.
You can see that valve in images 2 and 3. I made a bracket to mount it that utilized a couple bolts on my brush guard. The selector valve is for double acting cylinders so there are 3 pairs of ports on it, one pair on each of 3 sides. I mounted it so the input ports face downward and using 90 degree fittings and two 2 foot long hoses to connect to the old log splitter valve. The ports facing up, which are active with the solenoid off, get my original male couplers that go the front snow plow cylinders. The ports facing the engine get 90 degree fittings and two 6 foot hoses that run underneath the foot platform and up around the inside of the wheel well to the rear remotes.
The remaining images show the rear couplers and hose routing. I originally thought about using solid tube but decided it was much easier to use hose. And using the double hose clamps that I also bought from Surplus Center made securing those hoses neat and easy. I had to make one bracket to mount a double hose clamp low enough so engaging the brake pedal would not rub the hoses. 12 volt power for the solenoid is provided through a toggle switch that I mounted on the side of my dash. So with the toggle switch, selector valve, hoses and fittings it cost me about $300. Well worth it IMO to stay snug in the cab in the winter and not have hoses blocking my right side in the summer when using my hydraulic top link and rear attachments that need hydraulics.
