Top Link questions

[ovrszd]

Makes sense. I've never brush hogged but I've had hydraulic TnT for 20 plus years. All I could think of is trying to lift the box scraper to reset and this wet noodle behind me is just flopping around. I guess with the wheel behind the mower deck and no float built into the Implement float would be a must.

What 3pt attachments do you use on a regular basis?

 

[Rustyiron]

I want my hydraulic top link in the center of it's throw when on level ground. I want the ability to lengthen and allow my attachment to droop as much as possible. I also want the ability to shorten and allow my attachment to raise as much as possible. Not sure why I would want the cylinder to be near the end or it's stroke either way when operating under normal conditions?

That's how I built mine Richard, I'm an equal opportunity employer:laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

That's how I built mine Richard, I'm an equal opportunity employer:laughing:

Yeah, I go both ways.

 

[kerlingb]

Well I think I'm going to go ahead and buy the link i posted earlier. I'm fairly confident i dont have float capability on the tractor end so i won't be taking away any capabilities there. I'm going to assume the quick connect is a 1/2 iso 5675, as those seem to be the most common from what i read.

In looking at the connectors/hoses i find i have options: NPT, JIC, and the link comes BSP. Which of these are prefered? and which require pipe tape/liquid sealant?

 

[Rustyiron]

This is a pretty good q/c id guide Quick Disconnects > Discount Hydraulic Hose.com
iirc, click on what looks similar then click again on coupler size chart.

Go with NPT or JIC. JIC is much better but harder to repair on a Sunday afternoon.:laughing:

 

[kerlingb]

Big thanks to ovrszd,RNeumann, Rustyiron and LD1. You guys were all a big help. I got everything ordered and I can't wait to try to get it all together and hooked up.

 

[RNeumann]

What 3pt attachments do you use on a regular basis?

The box scraper with hydraulic rippers 99.9% of the time. My little video in the beginning of this post shows my reasoning for the shorter "up" stroke. But basically I like to load the box scraper with new road material and slowly lift the front of the box (extend the ram) to meter out material as I go. Then if I run into something that needs a deeper more aggressive cut I will tilt the box as much as I can and go backwards. The added up stroke only digs the front of the box into the ground and lifts the cutting blades- completely useless for what I do.
I can see the reasoning for equal lengths when level and that is how my new tractor came. It took about 2' of running to realize it wasn't for me though. I took it back and my dealer gave me the next length longer ram.
BTW- my experience with the tractor before this new one and moving to Idaho was construction. I have never ran anything on a 3 point except a box- and my first experience was with hydraulic top and tilt. That ruined me as I was spoiled from day one! All these other attachments are new to me...which is why I asked. Thx for sharing- I enjoy the lessons!

 

[ovrszd]

Big thanks to ovrszd,RNeumann, Rustyiron and LD1. You guys were all a big help. I got everything ordered and I can't wait to try to get it all together and hooked up.

If you don't post pictures it didn't happen!!!!

 

[IceStationZebra]

For bush hogging, I like to be able to raise the rear of the mower up real high (for the big stuff that you shouldn't really be mowing ) backing into your work, lowering, then pulling out, therefore wanting the t/l the opposite of your situation. Like you said, what implements will be used.

This can be hard on a PTO shaft if you get too crazy. Mowers usually have long ones which helps. (reminds me of running a baler! :yell: ) ISZ

 

[kerlingb]

If you don't post pictures it didn't happen!!!!

It's not a very good pic, but here it is