Leak in fairly new Baileys Chief 3 spool valve

[LD1]

I fear you are plumbed wrong. And the farm store don't know hydraulics.

Don't look like they hooked up PB.

And the P is for pressure being supplied to the chief valve. That hose should go down to one of the three hoses on that aluminum block.

Let me ask this, how many hoses in total are connected to the valve

 

[LD1]

Just re read. Disregard the P port. That's right. I missed the part where you had a 3rd function between the remote valve and loader. So that's all good.

I trust the 6 work ports are hooked up right. (They simply go to the couplers).

So no counting those 6, you NEED 3 other hoses. You only have 2 that I can see.

They omitted power beyond. Maybe they thought this valve was last inline and thought where they unhooked the old outlet of the 3rd was a tank return.
IT IS NOT. I say maybe they thought it was last inline because I see a black pipe fitting. This is still a high pressure circuit that feeds your 3ph. Thus why PB is needed because a spool valve isn't designed to carry that kind of pressure on the tank line.

It looks as though they did install the PB plug, but looks like they capped it off. That would be the he adapter looking thing, that in your pic of the unpainted valve just has a red plastic cap. And in the painted pic you can see where paint didn't stick.

So the PB plug is there, though I think it's in the wrong port.

What you need is where the N port is, where the hose is currently hooked and going to the block under the right floorboard. THAT is where the PB plug needs to be, then the hose put back on, running to the same location it is now. But omitting the black pipe fitting.

That will be the PB feeding your 3ph.

Now you still need the low pressure tank line. This needs to TEE into the bottom right port of that aluminum block under the floorboard. And on the chief valve, it can go to either the top or side T port.

Let me know if you got it or are still confused

 

[LD1]

Plain and simple you got screwed by someone who don't know hydraulics. You most certainly over pressurized tank port on the valve the first time you had something on the 3ph.

Best case scenario you just blew out the seals and it's an easy cheap fix. Worst case is you blew the valve casting.

In either case, I'd make the "farm store" foot the bill but certainly wouldn't let them touch it.

This is what you need it to look like.



Any questions?

 

[FTG-05]

[stupid double post]

 

[FTG-05]

Plain and simple you got screwed by someone who don't know hydraulics. You most certainly over pressurized tank port on the valve the first time you had something on the 3ph.

Best case scenario you just blew out the seals and it's an easy cheap fix. Worst case is you blew the valve casting.

In either case, I'd make the "farm store" foot the bill but certainly wouldn't let them touch it.

This is what you need it to look like.

View attachment 516840

Any questions?

No. Both relieved and infuriated. I specifically told the farm store that to improperly hook up the hydraulics could seriously damage something. And they still didn't do it right.


And no offense: Anyone else want to review LD's diagram and weigh in? I've rotated it and reattached it.

Thanks,

View attachment 516883


ETA: Yes, the 6 working ports are connected correctly and work fine other than the leaks I eventually fixed. I never mentioned them since they never appeared to be the problem.

And you are also exactly correct: There are only two hoses coming into and out of the 3 spool valve (ignoring the 6 working hoses).

 

[CalG]

Leaks? Seems like the drain is under pressure.

Get a proper return to tank and a power beyond line.
Those seals won't leak...

 

[FTG-05]

So off the top of my head, I need the following BOM:

Tank hose and fittings (blue line in LD's diagram, diagram reattached below for your convenience)):

- 1 x 10' hydraulic hose 1/2", SAE 10 JIC: 1/2" X 12" JIC 1F Swivel X JIC 1F Swivel SAE 1R16 HYDRAULIC HOSE ASSEMBLY 4 PSI | Hydraulic Hose Assemblies | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

- 1 x JIC 10M x SAE 10M Swivel 90 Elbow (connects to "T" port on Chief valve): JIC 1M x SAE 1M Swivel 9 Elbow | JIC Male to SAE Male - Right Angle | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

- 1 x JIC 10M x JIC 10F SWIVEL x JIC 10M RUN TEE (this *assumes* that output of the aluminum hydraulic block is JIC 10 in size, see pic below): JIC 1M x JIC 1F SWIVEL x JIC 1M RUN TEE | JIC Male to JIC Female Swivel to JIC Male Run Tee | JIC to JIC | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com



1/2 NPT Female Swivel (to replace black iron fitting): 1/2 NPT Female Swivel | NPT Female to NPT Female - Swivel Union | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

This BOM also assumes that the current SAE 10 to JIC 90 that is currently on the "N" port (see third pic) will also fit the output of the PB plug.



View attachment 516884 View attachment 516885

 

[FTG-05]

I can't thank everyone here for their help enough, especially LD. I really appreciate it.

While it's disappointing that the job was botched, at least now I know that A) something is wrong and I wasn't imagining it and B) I have a fairly simple and fairly inexpensive fix (about $60 in parts and shipping). This assumes no major damage to the Chief valve, which is unknown as yet.



As far as the farm store is concerned: I go by there every 1-2 weeks, it's where I buy my dog food. The guy that works there that I talk to all the time is the owner of the land to the north of me. Although he doesn't live on it, he's my neighbor.

The guy that did the work no longer works there; he moved onto a better paying job. He also turned out to be a friend after he did this job (which was about 6 months ago +/-). He got 5 of the 6 deer that I shot last season (except for a heart or two, I don't care for the meat, so give it away).

I had my doubts about their ability to do the job, but did it anyway for a variety of reasons. And I did give the local Kubota dealer a shot: I talked to one of their salesman about installing a 3rd function kit and his service manager was supposed to call me back. He never did and I assumed they didn't need and/or want the job. Mea culpa.

So, bottom line: There won't be any jihad against the farm store. We will have to have a conversation IF I find that the valve is destroyed or requires extensive refit. $60 in parts and shipping (which would have been required anyway) is one thing. Almost $300 for a new valve is another.

Again, my heartfelt thanks for everyone's help, especially LDs!

LD, if you're ever on I-65 near the AL/TN border, a bottle of Jack's best is on me!

 

[LD1]

You know your fitting size better than me, so I'll trust that your fitting sizes are correct for your hoses and the 90 fitting.

Yes the PB outlet should be the same size as the bore it threads into. All -10 on that valve.

Double check your hose length. 10' seems a bit long.

If you look in my thread on the install (link in my signature), the hose I used for where I mounted the valve to the hydraulic block under the floorboard was only 36". I realize you have a different tractor and different mounting location. But 10' is likely too long. Get a string, or old piece of garden hose and get a hard measurement.

Also, double check your TEE size too. I think the tractor hoses are -08 NOT -10.

Running a hose from a -10 valve to a -08 Tee can be accomplished several ways.
1. You can put an adapter on the tee to increase the size of one of the branches to -10 and use 1/2" hose with -10 ends
2. But a reducer on the 90 * fitting at the valve to reduce it to -08, then use a hose with -08 ends on both sides
3. Have a hose made with -10 on one end and -08 on the other
4. The 90 degree fitting on the valve, get it with -10 ORB x -08 JIC

Take your pick. I dont think any one way is more correct than the other.

But if it were me, Id probably get the swivel elbow with a -10 ORB and -08 JiC. Because that is probably gonna be the cheaper route. Because when it comes to hoses, Fittings that match the hose are usually cheaper. IE: 1/2" hose with 1/2" (-08) jic ends is usually quite a bit cheaper than upsizing the fittings to 5/8

 

[FTG-05]

Ok, more good stuff!

From above:

- One of the first things I'm gong to do is pull the "N" hose that's already disconnected; it's the one that was almost kinked (probably from tightening the NPT fitting onto the black iron fitting); and the black iron fitting needs to be removed as well. In any event, I'll use that hose to determine the T" hose length; I just *assumed* the 120" length but was always gong to check.

- I'll check the size of the fitting on the tractor FEL hydraulic block that I need to tee to. Assuming it's a -8, here's my revised BOM:

Tank hose and fittings:

- 1/2" X 120" JIC 8F Swivel X JIC 8F Swivel SAE 100R16 HYDRAULIC HOSE ASSEMBLY 4000 PSI (length TBD): 1/2" X 12" JIC 8F Swivel X JIC 8F Swivel SAE 1R16 HYDRAULIC HOSE ASSEMBLY 4 PSI | Hydraulic Hose Assemblies | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

- JIC 8M x SAE 10M 90 ELBOW: JIC 8M x SAE 1M 9 ELBOW | JIC Male to SAE Male - Right Angle | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

- JIC 8M x JIC 8F SWIVEL x JIC 8M UNION RUN TEE: JIC 8M x JIC 8F SWIVEL x JIC 8M UNION RUN TEE | JIC Male to JIC Female Swivel to JIC Male Run Tee | JIC to JIC | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com



1/2 NPT Female Swivel (to replace black iron fitting): 1/2 NPT Female Swivel | NPT Female to NPT Female - Swivel Union | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com



Thanks again!