Kubota Top-N-Tilt concerns

[mopardude318]

Okay, so I might get a "I told ya so."

I just bought a new M7060 using Kubota's Top-N-Tilt, and 3 remotes. I asked the dealer for 2 of the remotes to be a float valve, for the TnT cylinders, but he insisted all should be Self Cancelling Detent valves (SCD), as that is what they say and should be used for TnT... (I'm guessing this has to be a personal preference thing?) So, I did have some issues using my box scraper while using the SCD valves, digs in all over the place, I cant get a set scrape height to fine tune to barely drag the blade across the top ground. (float across the top)

The other issue is that the Kubota top ram seems to be too short, and I'm not able to get more 'front or back' tilt out of the blade, cause a too aggressive cut...

I have to definitely play around with it more, and I have a friend of mine who runs commercial grading equipment, and he noticed these same issues if you will. I think we just have to play around with it more, but I do feel I should have 2 float valves instead...

Looks like this ram here could be too short?

IMG_1540[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr

Don't know if its possible, but maybe if I try to hook up the lower link arms to the available hole down below, might give me more adjustment out of that ram? Essentially moving the BB closer to the tractor...?

IMG_1543[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr

IMG_1545[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr

I sure do have a leak, I'm gonna try and tighten up some of those lines! Hope it's not from the quick couplers themselves...

IMG_1541[1] by James Paradiso, on Flickr

Also, what sorts of problems were people having with the factory Kubota Top-n-Tilt? .....Perhaps a Fit-Rite ram may....fit right? lol

 

[RichM752]

I'll be removing backhoe and setting up this very same TnT kit in a few weeks when my new box scraper comes.

 

[Coyote machine]

You're in the top hole where the cylinder attaches to the tractor. If you went to the middle hole would that help some of your issues re adjustments?

I would suggest PMing Brian of Fit-Rite Hydraulics, he can probably best answer your concerns. I have his Top-N-Tilt and diverter valve, and they work as designed for my BB and brush hog, etc.

 

[wagne223]

I have dealer installed T&T in my L2501. 2 of the valves are detent type and 1 is standard.
Detent valves do not seem to work good with T&T. I use the standard valve for the top link because I'm constantly using that one. I have the tilt on a detent and it can be tricky. I just ease the lever just enough to move the tilt where I want it. If you move the lever too far it will detent and go all the way. I have learned to work with it.

The biggest thing that helps me is fully cycling the cylinders 2 times when I get on the tractor. I think a small amount of air gets in from the quick connects and makes the cylinders "jumpy" and not hold position. After cycling they are fine for the day.

With the leak you have, you are getting air in there and that will make the T&T act weird.

You can make it work with the detent valves, just learn to feather the lever.

 

[wagne223]

As far as the top cyl being short, replacing the cylinder is an option but will be expensive. As Coyote said, try moving the hole position. If that does not work, I believe you can buy a top link extender bracket. (Cheaper then a cylinder)

 

[muddstopper]

Why do you feel you need float on your top link. If the cyl is allowed to float in and out, that is exactly what it will do when you are trying to use the scrape. Pull forward and cyl will float in to retract, back up and the cyl will float out to extend. The top of your scrape is going to pitch one direction or other for which ever direction you are traveling. I can possibly see a use for float on your ripper bar on the scrape, but not on a top link. I agree with your dealer, the top link, should be a self centering valve. Set the top link length where you want it and forget about trying to use float.

 

[ericm979]

Some people like floating top links for mowers. Some flail mowers work better with a floating tilt link. But I agree that it's not useful on a box blade where you want the angle of attack to stay where you set it.

Isn't a detent valve used for log splitters or other accessories that require constant flow? I don't see how it'd be useful for TnT.

 

[LD1]

I agree, floating toplink won't help on ground engaging equipment. It will cause the implement to rotate about the lower links.

But, just because you have a float valve don't mean you have to use float. It would be like your loader valve. You can. Use it normally, OR float if you desire.

So my opinion, you should have gotten float valves. Because float is useful with certain things.

You toplink does look short too. Not only short, but not much range of motion. What is the cylinder size that Kubota supplies for a tractor that size (bore x stroke)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You typically should have at a minimum of 3" of adjustment in either direction from where the box is level. I don't think changing pin locations is going to get you what you need-want.

Just as an FYI, the "T&T" set that I supply for the M7060 has a 9" stoke top link with a working length of 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" and the side link has a 6" stroke cylinder and gets you an equal amount of tilt angle to each side. That is with 3" dia cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods.

One last thing, pretty sure that is not a factory Kubota "T&T" set.

 

[ericm979]

The tilt cylinder looks like it's mostly compressed. I wanted mine to have roughly equal up and down travel with the left side link set to the midpoint of it's range. To do that I needed to use the upper most mounting hole, and to get that to work I had to grind out part of the very substantial welds between the bracket and the rod. Obviously that's a judgement call that I take full responsibility for. Part of the reason is that i'm using smaller than normal tires on this tractor to get the CG lower. My tilt cylinder looks similar to yours but my top is different. Mine were aftermarket, installed by the dealer.