so maybe someone could help me out with this...on the back of the 2650 there is a plate that holds the rear remote plug in valves. If i could buy just that plate and plug in i could mount that on the front where my third valve is and that would make it much easier to plug my lines in. Im sure that part from Kubota probably costs about $10 thousand...maybe there is an after market similar????????
hydraulic quick connects
- Thread starter gravelman
- Start date
countrybumpkin
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2005
- Messages
- 3,234
- Tractor
- Kioti, kubota
I have all pioneer ag style on all my stuff, female ends on the tractor front and rear, male ends on all my attachments. We have always just marked one hose with a red zip tie and then we have the corresponding outlet marked on the tractor side, this allows for the levers to work the attachments the same way each time they are hooked up. Another reason I use this setup on my loader 3rd function is so if I need to move a pull type implement out of the way or something and have another implement on the back I can use the loader and 3rd function to move it. For pressure build up on the implements I use a female coupler I modified.
Fallon
Super Member
I have flat face for the 3rd function on my loader. Nice & clean, but a pain to hookup. Both my plow (pair of single acting cylinders) & PHD (hydraulic motor) are hard to hookup. Even when I turn off the machine to relieve hydraulic pressure before unhooking & subusuquent re-hooking.
I've had issues hooking up my TnT cylinders with the pioneer style. But only when they had a load (pressure) on them. On the Kubotas they mount the sleeve to the machine. So pushing on the hose slides the valve body & connects. Pulling slides the valve body the other way & disconnects. Easy to operate. But I'm not a fan of the pioneer/AG style. They pack up with dirt & drool when connected or disconnected.
I'm still looking for a better option myself. Keep thinking about getting some kind of thread on connect under pressure type. Maybe even for just 1 side of the 3rd function. With my single acting cylinders & motor relieving 1 side of the plumbing by connecting will relieve both. Not always the case with double acting cylinders.
I've had issues hooking up my TnT cylinders with the pioneer style. But only when they had a load (pressure) on them. On the Kubotas they mount the sleeve to the machine. So pushing on the hose slides the valve body & connects. Pulling slides the valve body the other way & disconnects. Easy to operate. But I'm not a fan of the pioneer/AG style. They pack up with dirt & drool when connected or disconnected.
I'm still looking for a better option myself. Keep thinking about getting some kind of thread on connect under pressure type. Maybe even for just 1 side of the 3rd function. With my single acting cylinders & motor relieving 1 side of the plumbing by connecting will relieve both. Not always the case with double acting cylinders.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Back when I plowed snow I carried a can of WD40 just to spray clean out my couplers as ice snow and grit were my enemies.
Worked great!
Also when I did get leaks I simply changed the O-ring inside the female coupler. The males never did seem to leak.
Once I had dropped the plow I'd wiggle the valve a bit to release pressure which made un coupling easier. (the weight of the plow would cause back pressure on the couplers)
Worked great!
Also when I did get leaks I simply changed the O-ring inside the female coupler. The males never did seem to leak.
Once I had dropped the plow I'd wiggle the valve a bit to release pressure which made un coupling easier. (the weight of the plow would cause back pressure on the couplers)
powerscol
Veteran Member
A trick I learned when connecting up is one- cycle the tractor hydraulics key off. Then - and this is the trick, check to be sure there is no pressure on the implement side. I use a rag and pressing the fitting down on the hard implement surface to release any implement kine pressure that may have built up do to sun and normal expansion, I also use the rag to be sure each coupling set is clean, Every now and then I use WD40 and a clean rage to fully clean and cycle each coupling to be sure the sleeve retracts easily and the ball bearing inside roll freely. Just a little bit of dirt can make a huge difference.
Hope this helps.
Somewhere out there is a tool that can be used to help in coupling up. It holds the sleeve back on the female ends.
Hope this helps.
Somewhere out there is a tool that can be used to help in coupling up. It holds the sleeve back on the female ends.
bob 59912
New member
Parker Quick Connects (aka Pioneer) has a several different series of couplers, including connect under pressure versions. I have all the couplings on the tractor and the ISO 5675 universal nipples on the implements. You have the option of NPTF or ORB for the connections to valves or hoses. Red fingernail polish is used to identify which hose to connect to which coupler, after the red tie-wraps fell off from too much sun.
4000 series couplers use manual retraction to make the connection with the nipple.
4200 series couplers use push / pull / breakaway clamps to make the connection
5000 series couplers connect under pressure, and then use a threaded mechanism, that you wrench together open the valves in each half (less convenient)
8200 series couplers push / pull / breakaway clamp can be connected under pressure where "either or both the coupler and nipple are under pressure. Valve halves remain closed, opening only when the system pressure has been relieved on the female body and then reapplied".
8400 series couplers are found in the Pioneer catalog. very similar to 8200, with a push to connect / breakaway design, supposedly more resistant to dirt, due to the mechnism being internal.
The 8100 series nipples also have a connect under pressure version, that allows you to use the less expensive 4000 and 4200 series couplers.
You can download either the Catalog 3900 Pioneer Quick Coupling Products, April 2017, ~ 9MB, or the Parker Catalog 3800, Section B, Hydraulic Quick Couplings, ~7MB, or the entire Parker Catalog 3800 Quick Coupling Products, Sept 2016, 20MB.
I opted for the 8200 series couplers for my third function lines to my V-snowplow. You could mount them with the Parker 5001-4 (single) or 5006-4 (double ) break away clamps shown in the Pioneer 3900 catalog. However I opted to use weld-on heavy duty Beta Clamps to clamp around the hose fittings rather than the coupler slide. ~$4 each
4000 series couplers use manual retraction to make the connection with the nipple.
4200 series couplers use push / pull / breakaway clamps to make the connection
5000 series couplers connect under pressure, and then use a threaded mechanism, that you wrench together open the valves in each half (less convenient)
8200 series couplers push / pull / breakaway clamp can be connected under pressure where "either or both the coupler and nipple are under pressure. Valve halves remain closed, opening only when the system pressure has been relieved on the female body and then reapplied".
8400 series couplers are found in the Pioneer catalog. very similar to 8200, with a push to connect / breakaway design, supposedly more resistant to dirt, due to the mechnism being internal.
The 8100 series nipples also have a connect under pressure version, that allows you to use the less expensive 4000 and 4200 series couplers.
You can download either the Catalog 3900 Pioneer Quick Coupling Products, April 2017, ~ 9MB, or the Parker Catalog 3800, Section B, Hydraulic Quick Couplings, ~7MB, or the entire Parker Catalog 3800 Quick Coupling Products, Sept 2016, 20MB.
I opted for the 8200 series couplers for my third function lines to my V-snowplow. You could mount them with the Parker 5001-4 (single) or 5006-4 (double ) break away clamps shown in the Pioneer 3900 catalog. However I opted to use weld-on heavy duty Beta Clamps to clamp around the hose fittings rather than the coupler slide. ~$4 each