There is something wrong with the hydraulics on my F1900. It may or may not be related to the cold spell we went through, 5-20F during the last 10 days. It is in the 20s now but no improvement. After I start my tractor the loader and 3pt will work for about 1 minute but then it stops working. The loader and 3pt arms will go down but will not go up. It seems that the pump does not labor at all. First I thought the oil is too cold but I used to plow snow and work in the winters before. Any advise what should I look at?
Hydraulic problem?
- Thread starter idaho04
- Start date
slowrev
Elite Member
Possibly water in your hydraulic system and it is freezing up. That would be my first thought.
Ben
Ben
When the same thing happened once last year I changed the oil last summer as I was suspecting the same thing. Some questions remain: did I change all the oil as I just drained it (there could have remained plenty in the cylinders), could moisture get in again, how often do I have to change the hydraulic oil, there is a lot of it in there.
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,205
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
You probably have a plugged suction screen. The hydraulics working for a short time then quitting is the tip-off. Drain the oil and clean the screen which is located where the suction tube enters the rear frame; held on by 4 bolts. Do it before you trash your pump.
slowrev
Elite Member
Idaho04,
Does your tractor sit out in the rain ?
Ben
Does your tractor sit out in the rain ?
Ben
CT_Tree_Guy
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> Possibly water in your hydraulic system and it is freezing up. That would be my first thought. </font>
Idaho, this was my very first thought too. By "water in the hydraulic system", I don't mean a big puddle of pure water somewhere, like you might find in the bottom of a gas tank. I suspect that the hydraulic fluid has picked up water throughout all the fluid in the system, and I bet (my usual) $.05 that if you look at a sample of the fluid it will appear quite milky. Your same exact symptoms just happened to my log truck.
What I suggest you do is keep the machine in a heated place until you're sure it's all thawed out. Another $.05 says all the hydraulics will then work fine. Then change the hydraulic fluid and filter(s) and you should be good to go for the winter, with just the usual "morning sickness" to contend with.
I'll bet my last $.05 that the reason it's always been fine in previous winters is that the fluid had not yet picked up enough water to lower its gelling point.
As another poster said, take care of it right away before you hurt your pump, they hate cavitation (and water!). Ditto the rest of a hydraulic system, water and contaminants are murder on EXPENSIVE hydraulic components. Seals, rods, pumps, motors, spool valves, everything.
Lots of other fluids need to be changed WAY more often than they typically are. Funny how we wouldn't dream of missing an engine oil drain interval, but let some things go way over what the maintenance schedule calls for. Brake fluid (every two years at least - it REALLY absorbs water), antifreeze and gear oil come to mind. How many cars are there out there with brake fluid that hasn't been changed in 5-10 years? And think of all the poor, forgotten differentials out there, wearing out long before their time. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
OK, there's my $.15 worth /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Idaho, this was my very first thought too. By "water in the hydraulic system", I don't mean a big puddle of pure water somewhere, like you might find in the bottom of a gas tank. I suspect that the hydraulic fluid has picked up water throughout all the fluid in the system, and I bet (my usual) $.05 that if you look at a sample of the fluid it will appear quite milky. Your same exact symptoms just happened to my log truck.
What I suggest you do is keep the machine in a heated place until you're sure it's all thawed out. Another $.05 says all the hydraulics will then work fine. Then change the hydraulic fluid and filter(s) and you should be good to go for the winter, with just the usual "morning sickness" to contend with.
I'll bet my last $.05 that the reason it's always been fine in previous winters is that the fluid had not yet picked up enough water to lower its gelling point.
As another poster said, take care of it right away before you hurt your pump, they hate cavitation (and water!). Ditto the rest of a hydraulic system, water and contaminants are murder on EXPENSIVE hydraulic components. Seals, rods, pumps, motors, spool valves, everything.
Lots of other fluids need to be changed WAY more often than they typically are. Funny how we wouldn't dream of missing an engine oil drain interval, but let some things go way over what the maintenance schedule calls for. Brake fluid (every two years at least - it REALLY absorbs water), antifreeze and gear oil come to mind. How many cars are there out there with brake fluid that hasn't been changed in 5-10 years? And think of all the poor, forgotten differentials out there, wearing out long before their time. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
OK, there's my $.15 worth /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
slowrev
Elite Member
Drain a bit of the fluid out and see if it is milky. If so replace it. I have seen tractors that sit outside get enought water in them that the transmission freezes up and the tractor won't move.
The tractor oil might have to be above freezing , not sure what wet hydro fluid looks like below freezing though.
A tractor that sits outside can get water in the tranny from one of several seals leaking.
Ben
The tractor oil might have to be above freezing , not sure what wet hydro fluid looks like below freezing though.
A tractor that sits outside can get water in the tranny from one of several seals leaking.
Ben
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,205
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
Follow the large tube back from the pump to the rear axle center section. The tube enters the screen's outer cover which is bolted and gasketed to the rear end housing. I am quite sure you will need to clean or replace the screen to get your hydraulics working properly. You will damage your pump if you run it for long like it is. A batch of oil is quite a bit cheaper than a batch of oil and a pump.