Adding Hydraulic Side Links

[3RRL]

I finally got enough time to start a thread and upload some pictures of my latest project, adding hydraulic side links. I got quite a lesson about hydraulics in my last project so I thought to start this one now.

Couple of things I wanted to accomplish were to have beefy hydraulic cylinders to take the place of the cheesy turnbuckles and also to mount double pilot operated check valves on them to prevent any leak down. This is important to me because I use my side links to "cinch" up the backhoe sub frame assembly and it needs to be that way. One other thing was to standardize the hitch pins to Ø1" on both the tractor upper lift arms and lower drag links.

This photo is some, not all of the components for the project. My hoses and the rest of the adapters are still on order.

 

[3RRL]

I measured the Kama to be certain I'd have enough clearance to get big Chief cylinders and those giant check valves at Surplus Center. I can't wait to try them out. The cylinders are Ø3-1/2" with a Ø1-3/4" shaft and 8" stroke. That should be plenty heavy duty enough to keep from bending, unlike the Ø1' turnbuckle shafts. I measured the travel of the existing turnbuckles and it was 7-1/2" so I'll have to modify the Chief cylinders a little to alter the stroke. I wanted 2 cylinders because I have a dirt road that requires a lot of maintenance and I'm constantly adjusting those side links for crowning the road or cutting gutters, etc. I also use the box blade quite a bit in reverse as a bulldozer blade so this way I'll have a 4 way blade almost like their 6 way blades. Using the box blade in this manner requires heavy duty drag links, stabilizers and side links, or something will bend.

I'm going to attempt to hard-plumb the DPOCV to the cylinders myself. Then also add a Prince 3 spool valve with power beyond. I'm planning to use the new valve to operate the side links and the hydraulic and top link cylinder. Then I'll use the existing rear remote valve to operate the hydraulic box blade with one spare set remotes....maybe...I'm not 100% certain yet.

Anyway, the first thing I ran into was that the new cylinders have a 1-1/8" width between the clevis and my upper lift arms have swivel balls that are 1-3/8 thick. So I had to grind them down to give me some clearance. I did that on the surface grinder in my garage shop.




Heres a picture that shows the difference between the two. Now they fit in between the new cylinder clevis.

 

[Ductape]

Uuh oh !! Here we go again !

 

[3RRL]

Hahaha...
Next I had to bore open the swivel ball from Ø7/8 to Ø1" and also do the same on the drag links to accept the larger pins. Now all the pins and holes are the same and I can switch them around instead of having all kinds of different sizes to mess with. You know when doing a project like this it's the "little" adjustments you have to make that really adds to the project. It rarely happens that everything you are wanting to do fits perfectly...sometimes not at all.

 

[3RRL]

I finally got the bores to be just right...
You can see the good one on the left vs the sloppy one on the right. I also had to mill some more clearance onto the upper lift bars to allow enough pivot room for the larger hydraulic cylinders.



Then I had to make a couple of brackets to accept the additional rear remotes and also for the new valve. So I welded some pieces I had lying around and drilled a bunch of holes in them. I made the rear remote bracket so I can bolt it onto the rear fender. This will put it more out of the way of the PTO and lift links making it safer and WAY more accessible.

 

[3RRL]

When I pinned the new cylinders onto the top lift arms they now worked great. But the the clevis on the bottom links needed to be cleared more to allow pivoting for the drag link (lower lift arm). So back to the milling machine and started to whack away the interfering portions. I ended up with over an inch of usable thread engagement so I thought that was plenty good. I looked it up to be sure and found that a 1-1/4-12 UNF thread holds 15,000 pounds at 1-7/8" engagement, so the 1'' should give me just about half that per thread....giving the 15,000 between the 2 of them. My tractor will never pick up anything over 3,500 lbs on the 3pt....



OK, so now the clevis is finished machined but when I screwed it back onto the piston , the threaded rod was sticking out about 3/4 inch...that won't work! I filed the threads and determined they were "soft" and I could probably cut them off.

So into the saw to cut off the excess.

 

[3RRL]

Finally I screwed the clevis's back onto the cylinders and the are ready to paint and install. You can also see the Prince 3 spool valve I'm using.




After that, it's outside the garage for a couple of coats of the primer paint. Then I'll put the final coats on and take everything up to the property to mount to the tractor.



Hopefully the rest of my couplers and the hydraulic hoses will arrive via UPS next week. I'm planning on spending Labor Day on the property with all my kids and grandkids. We will all be camping there. With that in mind, I may not have time to do the assembly anyway. I figure I might need a full day to run all the plumbing and bolt everything together. Again, if I forget something, it's at least a 4 hour loss by the time I get back from the nearest town with a hydraulic store in it.
Also, I might need some extra adjustments??? I'll keep you posted after that.

 

[Henro]

Here's a related thread...for anyone interested.

I am real happy with the Pilot operated check valves built into my Prince control valve, and especially happy with having float available on one of my tilt cylinders.

Actually, I REALLY happy with having float on one of my tilt cylinders. Recommend float for anyone having compound curves to deal with when dragging a rake or box blade and wanting to follow existing contours.

Almost forgot (sorry old link, previous to new upgrade, so references do not work):

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/44732-never-ending-t-t-path.html?highlight=ending

 

[SPYDERLK]

Quote: I looked it up to be sure and found that a 1-1/4-12 UNF thread holds 15,000 pounds at 1-7/8" engagement.

That would be 150,000 lb unless youre threading into low grade aluminum. A 1/2" Gr5 will do about 15K. A little loctite on the threads wouldnt hurt - To keep it from moving around and fretting the threads.
Larry

 

[3RRL]

Quote: I looked it up to be sure and found that a 1-1/4-12 UNF thread holds 15,000 pounds at 1-7/8" engagement.

That would be 150,000 lb unless youre threading into low grade aluminum. A 1/2" Gr5 will do about 15K. A little loctite on the threads wouldnt hurt - To keep it from moving around and fretting the threads.
Larry

OOOPs, Senior moment??
However, I just checked my DME safety hoist rating chart again and it says 15,000lbs.??? (maybe that's just their "liablity" safety rating for the unit itself?) I also checked the Machinery's Handbook under "eye bolts" and the female type lists the safe load at 36,750lbs.
But 150,000 is better....by a lot!!
I any case, my point is that it wil be strong enough....agreed??? And the locktight is good along with the 3/8-16 cross bolt.