Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up

   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up #11  
In colder climates on larger engines the circulating heaters are quite prevalent. However they usually use fuel for heat and have a small 12 or 24 volt electrical pump run off a battery for circulation.:D
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Hi Brent, I removed the whole front end of my tractor, what was odd, I was lookin' for the engine block drain, the only plug I found was a braided hose coming off the side of the block, looked to be around 1/4" then it connects to the bottom of the rad just slightly above where the lower hose fits into the rad, I have no idea why this smaller hose is fed into a spigit, like whats the reason, isit supposed to aid cooling or what ?, anyhow also both hoses are different sizes, like molded this lower is larger to fit waterpump, the other end is smaller to fit rad, same with the top hose, to the thermostat housing is also about the same size as the lower hose that fits the water pump, and then the same size to fit the top rad connection, now I can understand why these hoses cost a $100 each, some or some way I'll have to make something up to tap into the lower portion, without cutting the original exspensive lower hose the top hose can stay original, I still can't figure out that braided hose from the fitting on the left side of the block to the little connection to the bottom of the rad tank, maybe someone can exsplain why it;s there and it;s purpose, anyhow, I want to install this heater/pump to the lower hose and then into the block where this 1/4" braided hose if it must be here the only way to use it is to put in a "Y" connector, this gonna' be a nightmare, but I'll figure out something, the fan belt looks a little bit fraid, is this an A width belt or smaller ?, I may as well change it while it's all apart, anyhow can someone come to my rescue, I really need some assistance, thanks in advance......AMPA
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Come on guys, I really don't know why this blockdrain connects to the bottom of the rad tank, unless it's there to easily disconnect from the 1/8 in. spigot via the spring clip that holds it on, if this is true then all I need to do is plug the spigot on the bottom rad tank, and use this for the return into the engine block, but if it has a purpose of cooling the engine then I'll need to install a "Y" connector, the repair manual mentions nothing except a block drain on the left side of the engine, any help on this issue much appreiciated, Thanks in advance..........AMPA:confused:
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up #14  
Hi AMPA, sorry for the delay I got into a bunch of overtime at work and this morning was my first day off. I took 3 pictures, the first 2 are of where the bottom hose goes into the rad. It is just plumbed in with a brass fitting. The third pic is where the top hose comes out of the heater and goes into the block. The height differential between the 2 would prob be 6". Hope this helps a bit. I see I forgot to take a picture of the overall heater, you can see the top of it in the third pic. It is just bolted vertically beside the block with a piece of plumbers pipe strap. If you need I could try for a couple more photos. Again sorry for the delay.
Brent
 

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   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks ever so much Brent, the engine of your ISEKI is a way different than the engine on my G-174, it would seem like the ISEKI Company, goofed on mine and put the oil filter in the way of the engine drain plug, I went yesterday to a place called FluidLine and I was able to look at every brass connecter they had in bins setup in their show room and they had 100's, so I told the sales guy that I needed to look over and choose a number of brass fittings and if I needed help on finding certain connections to mounting this h/pump of mine, he told me just to look over his stock, and if I needed his help for anything that wasn't displayed was no problem as this is what he was there for, so after spending $ 80 I figured I had everything I needed to install this h/pump of mine but forgot all about the rad connection and went back in and the boss served, and he gave me what I needed no charge, which was a bonus, anyhow I brought all these fittings back home and started to install the first fittings to the block drain, this is where it gets nearly impossible, the fittings except for the 90 degree elbow fit okay, but on the other connections seems the oilfilter was in the way, yours mounts to the side of the block mine has the oilpump externally, I ended up usin' the stainless steel connector that came with the h/pump, with this fitting connected I was able to just clear room for the oilfilter, only because the rubber 5/8 heater hose was soft enough to give a little, but still I might have to add plastic elbows as it's a bit kinked, anyhow I was goin' to take the rad plug out and put a brass fitting for the input and the output of the h/pump into the engine block drain, but after readin' the h/pump instrutions this is *** backwards, now I must take the block drain for the heaterpumps input, and run the output of this heater pump to the cylinder head water jackets, the only thing I can see here is they must mean the small bypass hose from the thermostat housin' that connects to the waterpump, or I could maybe remove the temp sensor switch and put in a brass fitting with two openings, the nicest thing is that all these connections are standard pipe threads and not metric, one other thing was the engine block drain plug had a 1/4 in. braided rubber hose comming from it and connecting to the bottom rad tank, I have no idea what this is for, but I put in the supplied plastic "Y" connector, and connected the 5/8 heater hose to one end and reduced the other end to recieve the 1/4 in. with doing this adds bulkyness to the setup and my h/pump bein' 2 or 3 times larger, has me intalling it outside the engine compartment, which is infront of and below the grill, anyhow when I get finnished and it works proper, anyone that needs to install one can by usin' my work around on this same hard to work on G-174 ISEKI tractor, the pump instruction also mention that the output from the h/pump must be as short as possible so maybe I will have to keep this heater pump inside the engine compartment, but where??? I'll keep you up to date Brent on my progress, I know this is long and winded but I needed to explain my mistakes and many problems ....take care.......Ampa:D
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up #16  
I know the fun(frustration) your having. The shame of half of these projects is you only do it once. It would be so much simpler once all the kinks are worked out the third or fourth time.;)

Brent
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Hi again Brent.....I know it's been quite awhile and I'm not too sure I got back to you....anyhow everything worked out fine...I also installed my mini gauges in the dash... so when I plug in the block heater the new temp gauge shows the exact temp....which means I'm good to go this comming winter...also repainted the tractor a John Green color and rewired the whole 12 volt system including a new ignition switch to one instead of the two....thanks kindly for your support take care....Ampa :)
 
   / Installing A Circulating Heater Pump For Easier Start Up #18  
The Lower Rad hose is not the end of the world. Easy to install , Inexpensive and plug it in for an hour in -15 weather, It will start right up. If, You have a good battery and glow plugs.

Good Luck!!
 
 
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