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  1. #11
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    141
    Location
    Paducah (West) Kentucky
    Tractor
    Ford 3000 (early, 65-67), Bolens G174 2 Cylinder (early), Kubota B7200E 2WD belly mower

    Default Re: TS2205 still over heating

    Moon:
    You may also want to test both your old and new thermostat in a pot, on the stove, with a thermometer in it, put a piece of wire in the part of the thermometer that opens and closes and suspend it in the water, watch for what temperature it falls off at.

    Why test old one? if it falls off at a high temperature and new one drops off at correct temperature, you have found your problem!

    John

  2. #12
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    141
    Location
    Paducah (West) Kentucky
    Tractor
    Ford 3000 (early, 65-67), Bolens G174 2 Cylinder (early), Kubota B7200E 2WD belly mower

    Default Re: TS2205 still over heating

    I mean "put a piece of wire in the part of the THERMOSTAT that opens and closes..."

  3. #13
    Bronze Member terraformer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    66
    Location
    N.E. Mo
    Tractor
    Mahindra 3510, Bolens G192/Iseki 1910

    Default Re: TS2205 still over heating

    I had a similar model and the flange that held the radiator cap was broken. It could never develop the pressure in the cooling system.

  4. #14
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    456
    Location
    Forfar, Ontario, Canada
    Tractor
    1947 Massey Harris 30, 1960 Massey Ferguson 35 (Perkins), 1995 TAFE 351DI, 1980 Bolens G174, 2005 Kubota B7510

    Default Re: TS2205 still over heating

    Quote Originally Posted by Anonymous Poster View Post
    My light is coming on. It only comes on when the tractor is pulling hard. No fluid coming out of overflow tube. I always stop before it get to hot. Don't want to blow head gasket.

    Don
    I went around and around on this with my Bolens G174 last year. Turns out those heat sensors fail frequently. A supplier in California sent me one for a Yanmar, but it was the wrong thread. Eventually I disconnected the light and relied upon a laser thermometer.

    The interesting thing with the thermometer was that there was quite a hot spot on the head right near the sensor. I loosened it to let some bubbles out and retightened. It has run well since. I wondered if some sort of air lock had occurred when I changed the coolant.

    I'd suggest buying a cheap laser thermometer and monitoring engine temperatures as the first step.

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