NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140

[NHmitch]

Warning Warning ........
Don't operate tractor without Backhoe !!!!
It will tip over !!!
It needs the rear weight of the backhoe.

Rest of story .....
I haven't got around to reconnecting my back hoe.
last weekend I need to cut the grass.
Not a big deal, but my 42" 14hp MTD riding mower need the blades sharpened.
So I did what I've done many times before.
Hooked the FEL up to the front of MTD riding mower,
I'll hang the sucker almost vertical 4 feet in the air and then take the die grinder to the blades.
So as usual I pulled the Iseki around to the MTD (not to square) hooked up a chain,
Stood beside the Iseki and pulled the FEL up control,
FEL was 3-4 feet up when the entire rear end of the Iseki when in the air,
and started tipping sideways, I literally had to hold it by the FEL frame
with both hands to stop it from going over.
Then use my elbow to lower FEL.

Not gona do that again!!!

Dave

Dave,

I'm glad that you are allright! I use my lift all, and drive my MTD 21hp mower onto it the pallet that is bolted onto it, and then I lift the rear wheels of the mower in the air, so I can change the blades, or sharpen them. I do have the suitcase weights to counter the weight, however, that would be pretty scary with the rear wheels in the air. I have had the front wheels in the air several times before I had the suitcase weights, and my front tires loaded, but I am going to get my rears loaded this week. I need the extra ballast.. Again, glad that you are allright!

 

[MyG154]

Thanks Mitch, I'll chase after that.

I spoke with Jim Ange today about his progress with my tractor. He's still working on getting the FEL separated and installing quick disconnects for me to make it easy to drop and swap. Right now it's all hard plumbed and not conducive to change. Tomorrow he tells me he's cracking the machine in half.

I've got a question. There's a wire that enters the bell housing in a hole under the steering column (left side). Before I gave Jim the tractor I chased my fried wire to this location. Not knowing what's inside I'm curious. I did ask Jim to replace the wire when the machine is open. Maybe it's just the wire that was at fault and not the switch?

Getting anxious to get this machine back, my list of projects could use some downsizing.

I found a starter switch on ebay, I know that you were looking for one. Bolens Iseki 1502H Start Switch | eBay The front PTO adapter installs between the front bumper bracket and the radiator grill like in the photo below. I wouldn't mind the belly mower, but with my R1 ag tires, I would just tear the lawn up. I do want to eventually get a 4ft brush hog. I know that they are all over craigslist, and new at TSC.

 

[Marcle]

Warning Warning ........
Don't operate tractor without Backhoe !!!!
It will tip over !!!
It needs the rear weight of the backhoe.

Rest of story .....
I haven't got around to reconnecting my back hoe.
last weekend I need to cut the grass.
Not a big deal, but my 42" 14hp MTD riding mower need the blades sharpened.
So I did what I've done many times before.
Hooked the FEL up to the front of MTD riding mower,
I'll hang the sucker almost vertical 4 feet in the air and then take the die grinder to the blades.
So as usual I pulled the Iseki around to the MTD (not to square) hooked up a chain,
Stood beside the Iseki and pulled the FEL up control,
FEL was 3-4 feet up when the entire rear end of the Iseki when in the air,
and started tipping sideways, I literally had to hold it by the FEL frame
with both hands to stop it from going over.
Then use my elbow to lower FEL.

Not gona do that again!!!

Dave

Lucky escape Dave.

I've not got round to it yet, but suggest you strongly consider something similar. I'm going to fill my rear tyres with ballast which is very common on larger machines as it helps keep the centre of gravity low. Its a trick I used to use with competition 4x4 off road trials, but instead of the back tyres, I filled the front tyres as it greatly helps the vehicle climb steep banks, it also helps absorb the terrain better, thus keeping the wheels on the ground. Let me explain if you through a wheel along the yard, it'll go all over the place, where as a wheel with some ballast in it will simply go thud on the ground and not bounce around. Many people could not understand why my 4x4 would out perform others on banks, well it was all about the ballast.

There's various fluids that can be used as ballast, the first being water, which is fine in warm climates, but in colder climates where freezing is possible you'll need to use some sort of antifreeze in the water. Cheap skates use salt, but that can settle out if not regularly stirred up. I use engine antifreeze in mine, however I've found out some people use windscreen washer fluid as its heavier than standard water/antifreeze mix. But its all down to cost.

I did have a cheap skate friend who only had water in his 4x4 (yes word got about when I cut a tyre open on some rocks and blue water squirted out!), and he used the vehicle in a quarry one frosty day, only to have his tyres 'leak' when they thawed out!

Just to recap, cheap alternative to steel weights, with the weight in the right place, and helps stop the vehicle being 'kicked' over when travelling on side slopes.

 

[Marcle]

I managed to get down to the tractor today to take a few more photos. I've got a call scheduled with Jim Ange tomorrow and will likely have this on a trailer and up to his place soon, so I am wondering how the backhoe disconnects. Now I only need to find the brochures that came with the tractor...

I'm wondering how your back actor is powered as you don't seem to have any hydraulic pump mounted on the rear pto shaft?

 

[MyG154]

Here's my scary story for you... I'll preface by saying that I am very familiar with the center of gravity issues with this machine and am a very cautious operator.

So here goes, I was up at my place in Maine with my machine filling in an old cellar hole last year. The pile of fill that I was using as backfill was placed on a wooded slope. I purposely stayed away from the slope as I did not want to put the machine in a place that I could not get out of considering the soil conditions, the wooded area and the fact that my machine is pretty long with the backhoe attachment. The backhoe also adds to the relative high center of gravity. Well, there was one last bit of the pile that I could not reach so I decided to attack it from the side which was parallel with the slope. Two seconds into the approach and the right rear tire sunk into the ground. The machine ended up nearly on its side and it happened so fast I barely managed to leap from the machine as it rolled. My wife was watching in horror as this happened. Fortunately in forethought I extended the out riggers on the backhoe which prevented it from rolling over. My heart was racing and I quickly regained my composure and looked back at the machine, still running leaning it was leaning at 45 degree angle. I was able to right the machine with a tow strap and haul it off the slope no worse for the scare. I then realized that I needed to source a rops.

The machine made it home and sat over the winter, with the exception of the my temporary insanity which allowed a "friend" to borrow and destroy my clutch... :ashamed: My current situation with it being in the shop has delayed the rops search, but with the future fix being imminent, I think that I need to renew this search. I saw that NY, VT, & NH have a grant available... Any one in in those states willing to give me a hand?

 

[NHmitch]

I would, but I used my grant for my ROPS, however I will do some research and see how we can get you one. Hercules makes the only rectified OSHA/ISO Rops for your tractor, and they run about $6-7 hundred from Justtractorparts.com The rebate will cover almost the entire amount. I'll help you somehow get this, but you are right, you need someone who hasn't used the program yet this year in NH, VT or NY. The ROPS that I installed is very, very secure, and I also had a close call last summer, and I feel so much safer now, or at least more confident that I will not get crushed if I have a roll over. I'll do some research and try to contact NYCAMP to see how we can make this happen. Have you loaded your tires yet? I know a place about an hour from you that will do it for under $100.

 

[MyG154]

Thanks for the assitance Mitch - I figured this was a one time deal for each applicant and would be ruled out. I really should dig out my address book and find a relation that I'd be willing to talk to (or that would be willing to talk to me!).. Any advice is certainly appreciated. Can't for the life of me figure out why MA and ME are not on the list. Guess they figure the farmers are all north and West of Boston.

I must admit I know nothing about tire loading other than hearing that powdered sodium was used in AG tires for this purpose. Also remember hearing about a liquid at some point in time but can't confirm that. If you have a contact please pass it on. I would most certain be interested in that. I would need someone to tell me that my 32 year old tires would take the loading. I have noticed some cracking but don't have any intention of replacing tires until I absolutely have to.

Mark

 

[NHmitch]

Mark, I emailed them, and I am just waiting for a response. You can use the program once a year for a different tractor. I am not sure why MA and ME did not get onboard either, probably politics, but sad though.

The place that will load the tires is Chesterfield Tire in NH just outside of Keene. It is a bit over an hour from you, but would be worth the drive. They are by far the cheapest around in MA, and NH and how you do it is by adding tubes to the tires. Then you cracks in the tires are not an issue as far as the liquid goes. They use windshield washer fluid, because it does not freeze, is inexpensive, and safe for the environment ad you rims. It does not weigh as much as calcium chloride, or other alternatives but it is a good option for what you need it for. It would really help make the tractor much more stable. This is there site, I'll let you know what I find out about the ROPS. Chesterfield Tire Service

 

[MyG154]

Never realized the idea of the tube insert, thats too easy to overlook. I will plan on dragging the machine up there when I get it back from the shop. Maybe on the way home I'll drop by your place and give you a personal inspection.

Small update to offer on the fix under way... I spoke to Jim today, here's the report;

1.) Burnt wiring has been replaced. Nuetral start safety switch now works again.
2.) Starter switch has been verified to be in good order, no replacement required.
3.) Rear hydraulics have been modified to allow tractor to be seperated from backhoe by inserting quick connects inline.
4.) sloppy actuators have been pulled apart and will need total replacement but wont prevent the machine from being operated for the near future. Jim tells me that the cartridge inserts are corroded and replacing seals and 0-rings would not give any further positive results. That will be next years targeted fix.
5.) Tractor has been broken in half and Jims found that the clutch disk totally seperated. So we've got a new one on order along with a pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. As long as its open might as well do some investing to give it a long life.

Parts are expected late next week, assembly is just a few days following that. I guess it will be back in my yard by the 12th or 13th then I can start some overdue degreasing, cleaning, and painting.

Mark

 

[MyG154]

Got a call from Jim Ange today. The final and last part for the tractor (pilot bearing) which took its time getting to his shop arrived today and was installed and the tractor is back together! Tomorrow all he has to do is hook up the hoses. So the plan is to drive up in the late afternoon and retreive it. :thumbsup: