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  1. #11
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    2
    Location
    schoharie, ny
    Tractor
    bolens g154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    i have a g154 starts runs and moves looks ugly the last owner did some ungodly art work to it. im looking to sell it but not have any luck in this area of upstate ny. not to maybe people know what it is or has heard of it in this area. my question is how much might it be worth and is there anywhere online i should try and sell it?

  2. #12
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    189
    Location
    New Jersey
    Tractor
    craftsman gt6000, Pennsylvania panzer T70, Cub cadet LT1050,Bolens G154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    I cleaned up the head and then I removed the exhaust valve that was
    leaking. The valve was in nice shape but the seat was pitted.
    There is no steel seat insert and the head has a seat machined in
    to it so seat is cast iron and it pitted sitting unused all those years.
    I lapped the seat and for about 7 mins of work it clean up
    pretty good. I cleaned up all of the lapping compound and
    reassembled the valve and spring. I gave all of the valves
    a good slap with a rubber mallet to make sure the keeps
    were seated. I put head on it side and filled the exhaust
    port will fuel and it no longer leaks! Here are some pictures.
    The last picture is of valve about 3 hours later and it just
    a little damp.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -head1-jpg   -badseat-jpg   -lapped-seat-jpg   -valve1-jpg   -assembled1-jpg  

    -3hours-later-jpg  

  3. #13
    Platinum Member Ilikeurtractor's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    710
    Tractor
    Iseki TX1300F/TX1500/ TX2160F/TS2220F/ Satoh S373D

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    Looks like you're committed now The nice thing about going through everything is it gives you a chance to clean and paint it all up. You'll have a nice, reliable machine when you're done.

    Some pitting is normal, I found that out the hard way. I thought there shouldn't be any but the seats will still hold as long as it doesn't go through the whole seat area.
    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/i...w-power-3.html
    One nice thing about being average is you're not alone.

  4. #14
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    189
    Location
    New Jersey
    Tractor
    craftsman gt6000, Pennsylvania panzer T70, Cub cadet LT1050,Bolens G154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikeurtractor View Post
    Looks like you're committed now The nice thing about going through everything is it gives you a chance to clean and paint it all up. You'll have a nice, reliable machine when you're done.

    Some pitting is normal, I found that out the hard way. I thought there shouldn't be any but the seats will still hold as long as it doesn't go through the whole seat area.
    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/i...w-power-3.html
    Hey thanks for the link it was good and informative reading.

  5. #15
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    189
    Location
    New Jersey
    Tractor
    craftsman gt6000, Pennsylvania panzer T70, Cub cadet LT1050,Bolens G154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    Well I have been studying the injector pump for days.
    Two weeks ago I removed the delivery valve holders
    and the delivery valve seats from the top of the injector
    pump. There was no gunk or crud clogging anything
    and I flushed everything with kerosene. I have had
    the pump submerged in kerosene for a week or so.
    I finally felt that the way I was trying to test the pump was
    not the way to do it. Today I lubed the rollers and the
    plungers in the pump and installed it on the engine.
    I then cleaned up the injector lines that go from
    the pump to the nozzle holders. I tightened the lines
    to the pump and then I attached the lines to the
    nozzle holders. ( injectors ) I rigged up a small
    fuel tank and installed a battery. I lubed up
    the cylinders just to protect them and the rings
    while I cranked over the engine. I then cranked
    over the engine using the starter and while engine
    was turning I held the throttle lever to full throttle
    and after several attempts, Hot dog she pumps and
    the discharge at the injectors was even and strong.
    Next stop is to remove oil pan and then pistons to
    check rings. Here are a few pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -100_5322-jpg   -100_5323-jpg   -100_5324-jpg   -100_5325-jpg   -100_5326-jpg  

    -100_5326-jpg  

  6. #16
    Platinum Member Ilikeurtractor's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    710
    Tractor
    Iseki TX1300F/TX1500/ TX2160F/TS2220F/ Satoh S373D

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    You'll have 'er up and running in no time Just make sure you've kept all the original shims under the injector pump in place. This will affect the engine's injection timing. Make sure the shims are the metal kind too. Someone pulled the shims on my engine and stuck a 1/16" paper-type gasket in place of them when I first examined it. The timing was about 16 later than spec because of this - spec. according to my manual is 26 BTDC which is pretty advanced for a diesel from my experiences. Removing shims advances the timing.
    One nice thing about being average is you're not alone.

  7. #17
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    233
    Location
    Northern California
    Tractor
    TS1610

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    Thanks for the updates and photos. Although I can see from the photos the TX1300 is different from my TS1610, what I am learning from your posts could help me with any model tractor.

  8. #18
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    189
    Location
    New Jersey
    Tractor
    craftsman gt6000, Pennsylvania panzer T70, Cub cadet LT1050,Bolens G154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    I was able to work on the tractor today after the 2 min sleet storm
    we had here in New Jersey.
    I wanted to drop the oil pan so I could remove the pistons.
    So I started to remove the drain plug first so I screwed the drain plug
    out slowly so I didn't drop it the drain pan. When the plug
    was right on the last thread thin liquid started coming out.
    Well it was about 1 1/2 pints of water. I was nervous now
    wandering what might be rusted from the water.
    Anyway once I got the pan off there was no rust inside
    crankcase/engine block and there was enough sludge
    in the bottom of the pan that it kept the pan from rusting.
    After I removed the front piston I could see that the
    rings were stuck in the ring grooves and that cylinder
    is the one that had NO compression. I only removed
    the front piston and after I got it out I put it a container
    of kerosene to soak. After about a 1/2 hour or so
    the top ring became loose and it popped loose
    from the ring groove. The other two compression rings
    took a little assistance but the 2nd ring now rotates in the groove.
    One ring to go. Also the oil control ring was not stuck.
    The rod bearings look almost new and the crank journal
    was spotless. Tomorrow I'll take out the other piston
    and I need to sort out the oil pump also. Here are
    a few pictures
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -100_5338-jpg   -100_5328-jpg   -100_5330-jpg   -100_5331-jpg   -100_5333-jpg  

    -100_5334-jpg   -100_5335-jpg   -100_5336-jpg  
    Last edited by fxrs55; 03-13-2013 at 11:10 PM.

  9. #19
    Platinum Member Ilikeurtractor's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    710
    Tractor
    Iseki TX1300F/TX1500/ TX2160F/TS2220F/ Satoh S373D

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    I'd recommend going back in with new rings since you got it apart this far. Rings tend to be one of the biggest problems on these engines from what I've gathered over the years - one of the areas needing service most frequently out of the rest of it. You can get them from NCW Tractor Parts & Tractor Supply Store - Compact Tractor Parts along with a new head gasket and other things you may need. You'll want to ensure your engine serial # is 51000 or greater (I think this is the number) since older serial #s used a thinner top ring and those are no longer available as best I can tell. The engine serial number is located on the top deck of the engine block on the front left hand corner (as looking from the tractor seat position) if I remember correctly.
    One nice thing about being average is you're not alone.

  10. #20
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    189
    Location
    New Jersey
    Tractor
    craftsman gt6000, Pennsylvania panzer T70, Cub cadet LT1050,Bolens G154

    Default Re: Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

    The other day I was able to get the last ring loose on the first
    piston and next I'll need to clean the piston and grooves.
    I was able to work on the Bolens today. First thing I did was to
    removed the rear piston. The rings look to be in good shape and
    the rod bearings also look good. Next I removed
    two 1/8" ahhh I mean 6mm pipe plugs next to the oil pump.
    These are the oil passages from the oil pickup in the oil pan
    to the oil pump. They were some what clogged so with a squeeze bottle
    I pumped kerosene through them several times until the kerosene flowed through easily. I also removed the check valve from the oil pump
    and flushed kerosene through there also. Now that I know the
    other piston and rod bearings are ok I can now make a list
    of parts I am going to need and get them ordered.

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