Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #11  
i have a g154 starts runs and moves looks ugly the last owner did some ungodly art work to it. im looking to sell it but not have any luck in this area of upstate ny. not to maybe people know what it is or has heard of it in this area. my question is how much might it be worth and is there anywhere online i should try and sell it?
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I cleaned up the head and then I removed the exhaust valve that was
leaking. The valve was in nice shape but the seat was pitted.
There is no steel seat insert and the head has a seat machined in
to it so seat is cast iron and it pitted sitting unused all those years.
I lapped the seat and for about 7 mins of work it clean up
pretty good. I cleaned up all of the lapping compound and
reassembled the valve and spring. I gave all of the valves
a good slap with a rubber mallet to make sure the keeps
were seated. I put head on it side and filled the exhaust
port will fuel and it no longer leaks! Here are some pictures.
The last picture is of valve about 3 hours later and it just
a little damp.
 

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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #13  
Looks like you're committed now :) The nice thing about going through everything is it gives you a chance to clean and paint it all up. You'll have a nice, reliable machine when you're done.

Some pitting is normal, I found that out the hard way. I thought there shouldn't be any but the seats will still hold as long as it doesn't go through the whole seat area.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/iseki/215350-ke70-engine-low-power-3.html
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Looks like you're committed now :) The nice thing about going through everything is it gives you a chance to clean and paint it all up. You'll have a nice, reliable machine when you're done.

Some pitting is normal, I found that out the hard way. I thought there shouldn't be any but the seats will still hold as long as it doesn't go through the whole seat area.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/iseki/215350-ke70-engine-low-power-3.html

Hey thanks for the link it was good and informative reading.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Well I have been studying the injector pump for days.
Two weeks ago I removed the delivery valve holders
and the delivery valve seats from the top of the injector
pump. There was no gunk or crud clogging anything
and I flushed everything with kerosene. I have had
the pump submerged in kerosene for a week or so.
I finally felt that the way I was trying to test the pump was
not the way to do it. Today I lubed the rollers and the
plungers in the pump and installed it on the engine.
I then cleaned up the injector lines that go from
the pump to the nozzle holders. I tightened the lines
to the pump and then I attached the lines to the
nozzle holders. ( injectors ) I rigged up a small
fuel tank and installed a battery. I lubed up
the cylinders just to protect them and the rings
while I cranked over the engine. I then cranked
over the engine using the starter and while engine
was turning I held the throttle lever to full throttle
and after several attempts, Hot dog she pumps and
the discharge at the injectors was even and strong.
Next stop is to remove oil pan and then pistons to
check rings. Here are a few pictures.
 

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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #16  
You'll have 'er up and running in no time :) Just make sure you've kept all the original shims under the injector pump in place. This will affect the engine's injection timing. Make sure the shims are the metal kind too. Someone pulled the shims on my engine and stuck a 1/16" paper-type gasket in place of them when I first examined it. The timing was about 16° later than spec because of this - spec. according to my manual is 26° BTDC which is pretty advanced for a diesel from my experiences. Removing shims advances the timing.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #17  
Thanks for the updates and photos. Although I can see from the photos the TX1300 is different from my TS1610, what I am learning from your posts could help me with any model tractor.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I was able to work on the tractor today after the 2 min sleet storm
we had here in New Jersey.
I wanted to drop the oil pan so I could remove the pistons.
So I started to remove the drain plug first so I screwed the drain plug
out slowly so I didn't drop it the drain pan. When the plug
was right on the last thread thin liquid started coming out.
Well it was about 1 1/2 pints of water. I was nervous now
wandering what might be rusted from the water.
Anyway once I got the pan off there was no rust inside
crankcase/engine block and there was enough sludge
in the bottom of the pan that it kept the pan from rusting.
After I removed the front piston I could see that the
rings were stuck in the ring grooves and that cylinder
is the one that had NO compression. I only removed
the front piston and after I got it out I put it a container
of kerosene to soak. After about a 1/2 hour or so
the top ring became loose and it popped loose
from the ring groove. The other two compression rings
took a little assistance but the 2nd ring now rotates in the groove.
One ring to go. Also the oil control ring was not stuck.
The rod bearings look almost new and the crank journal
was spotless. Tomorrow I'll take out the other piston
and I need to sort out the oil pump also. Here are
a few pictures
 

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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #19  
I'd recommend going back in with new rings since you got it apart this far. Rings tend to be one of the biggest problems on these engines from what I've gathered over the years - one of the areas needing service most frequently out of the rest of it. You can get them from NCW Tractor Parts & Tractor Supply Store - Compact Tractor Parts along with a new head gasket and other things you may need. You'll want to ensure your engine serial # is 51000 or greater (I think this is the number) since older serial #s used a thinner top ring and those are no longer available as best I can tell. The engine serial number is located on the top deck of the engine block on the front left hand corner (as looking from the tractor seat position) if I remember correctly.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#20  
The other day I was able to get the last ring loose on the first
piston and next I'll need to clean the piston and grooves.
I was able to work on the Bolens today. First thing I did was to
removed the rear piston. The rings look to be in good shape and
the rod bearings also look good. Next I removed
two 1/8" ahhh I mean 6mm pipe plugs next to the oil pump.
These are the oil passages from the oil pickup in the oil pan
to the oil pump. They were some what clogged so with a squeeze bottle
I pumped kerosene through them several times until the kerosene flowed through easily. I also removed the check valve from the oil pump
and flushed kerosene through there also. Now that I know the
other piston and rod bearings are ok I can now make a list
of parts I am going to need and get them ordered.
 
 
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