Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

[Bostenr]

I have the frame sanded, cleaned and repainted back to the transmission.
I also installed the modified clutch pedal and both brake pedals.
I installed the left foot board and the firewall.
I also have cleaned and repainted the fuel tank. I removed the starter
to clean and paint the engine block behind the starter and to
also clean and repaint the starter itself. My new air filter
came in the mail today.

What did you use to clean it before painting? I was thinking pressure wash, then sand blast, then paint??

 

[fxrs55]

What did you use to clean it before painting? I was thinking pressure wash, then sand blast, then paint??

I sprayed everything with simple green and let it soak about 10 mins
then I pressure washed everything. I did not sandblast the tractor as a whole.
I did sandblast a few small parts but I'm not doing a concours restoration
on a tractor so I am looking to get off the dirt and grease and oil.
I also hand sanded the rusty parts to remove the rust but not the old paint.
I found from doing a few other tractors that if I sand blast
the parts to bare metal that I have to spray many coats of primer
to get the parts smooth enough for finish top coat. If I put that much
work on paint, I baby the tractor to much for fear of scratching the paint
and then I don't enjoy using the tractor. Here is a picture of my pennsylvania panzer
that I sand blasted the hood and both fenders. I sprayed one coat of primer
and 2 coats of turquoise and after I assembled those parts back onto the
tractor I realize the paint looked porous. I should take those parts back off and
sand them and add a few more coats of paint to get the finish to
look better but then I'll worry about scratching the paint so the panzer would just
sit in the corner covered. Anyway I am not looking to make a show tractor
so I won't be doing much sandblasting.
Oh, Sandblasting may get sand into areas you don't want sand to get into.

 

[fxrs55]

Back in October I changed the transmission/hydraulic oil. I was using
Xtreme oil I bought at Tractor Supply. I didn't think it was
working all that well. So I bought a 5 gal bucket of Mobil 424 and
it really did make difference. The 3 point is faster going up
and I no longer have to crank up the throttle to get to lift.
The front blade also goes up faster. I bought the Mobil 424
on line for $55 and the shipping was $16. For me it was well
worth it.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I finally have a little time to address the weak 3 point hydraulics
when lifting stuff with my dirt scoop. Upon disassembly I found
the o-rings are shot and the piston has galling as does the
cylinder bore. I honed the cylinder and I'm going to take
the piston to work polish it in the lathe. I already
bought all the o-rings I need for this project.

Do you remember where you got the O-rings/seals for the piston? I acquired a G174 that will need the 3-pt piston re-ringed (hopefully just a re-ring.) I remembered reading your post and had to go back and review it. I'm hoping the O-rings are common parts - thanks!

 

[fxrs55]

Do you remember where you got the O-rings/seals for the piston? I acquired a G174 that will need the 3-pt piston re-ringed (hopefully just a re-ring.) I remembered reading your post and had to go back and review it. I'm hoping the O-rings are common parts - thanks!

I have bought many parts through an AGCO Dealer here in New Jersey.
The o-rings came in packaging from Agco

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Thanks - looks like they are somewhat standard (JIS) items according to what I can find. I'm checking with a US hydraulics supplier to see if they can supply them. They don't appear to be common enough to find any on Amazon or eBay (or very limited anyway), especially the "backup" ring.

 

[fxrs55]

Thanks - looks like they are somewhat standard (JIS) items according to what I can find. I'm checking with a US hydraulics supplier to see if they can supply them. They don't appear to be common enough to find any on Amazon or eBay (or very limited anyway), especially the "backup" ring.

I found the part numbers for the o-rings.
I ordered them here in NJ from a Massey Ferguson
dealer who is an Agco parts dealer.
These part numbers are for a White Field Boss 16
which was made by Iseki.
The backup ring is # 33-0129011
next ring # 33-0128872
the third ring # 33-0042331

I also bough a couple bearings for my transmission using
the part numbers for the field boss 16.
I also used the field boss 16 to find the part numbers
to rebuild the hydraulic pump on my Iseki.

here is a picture of the pump parts.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Pulling info from the manual looks like the one O-ring is a P50A and the other is a G55 which are standard metric O-rings. The backup ring is considered a P50A backup ring. I ordered 4 sets of these to meet the $20 minimum order from the place I bought them from so they are pretty cheap. I haven't had time to attempt to replace them yet. I'll try to remember to post my results when I finally get around to it. Thanks for the continued help.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I changed the 3-pt piston o-ring and backup ring today. The old o-ring didn't seem too terrible in terms of brittleness (I've seen a lot worse) but was slightly twisted and deformed and the backup ring was only about 75% of a complete circle and tapered down about 50% of what was remaining of the ring towards the ends. The old backup ring seemed more like a thick paper gasket. The new backup rings I put in were Teflon, but only about 1/2 the thickness of the original one so I put two of those in and rotated the seams 180° apart, kind of like engine piston rings. The cylinder was scored up much more than I would have thought and it probably should have been honed but I didn't do it. O-rings are much more forgiving than regular engine piston rings and I didn't want to open up the piston-to-cylinder wall clearance if I didn't have to. I was under a slight time-crunch to complete this so I skipped taking pictures. I spent about two hours on it start to finish and it is a pretty straight-forward job as fxrs55 pointed out.

The difference in the 3-pt holding its position has been greatly improved. With the old rings the one trailer I had on the 3-pt hitch would fall about an inch per minute. After the new ones were installed I haven't noticed it fall at all over the course of about 10 minutes. I'm leaving it overnight to see how much it will fall but even if it does it will be acceptable for my purposes.

 

[fxrs55]

I changed the 3-pt piston o-ring and backup ring today. The old o-ring didn't seem too terrible in terms of brittleness (I've seen a lot worse) but was slightly twisted and deformed and the backup ring was only about 75% of a complete circle and tapered down about 50% of what was remaining of the ring towards the ends. The old backup ring seemed more like a thick paper gasket. The new backup rings I put in were Teflon, but only about 1/2 the thickness of the original one so I put two of those in and rotated the seams 180ｰ apart, kind of like engine piston rings. The cylinder was scored up much more than I would have thought and it probably should have been honed but I didn't do it. O-rings are much more forgiving than regular engine piston rings and I didn't want to open up the piston-to-cylinder wall clearance if I didn't have to. I was under a slight time-crunch to complete this so I skipped taking pictures. I spent about two hours on it start to finish and it is a pretty straight-forward job as fxrs55 pointed out.

The difference in the 3-pt holding its position has been greatly improved. With the old rings the one trailer I had on the 3-pt hitch would fall about an inch per minute. After the new ones were installed I haven't noticed it fall at all over the course of about 10 minutes. I'm leaving it overnight to see how much it will fall but even if it does it will be acceptable for my purposes.

I am going to do mine again soon. Where did you get your new O-Rings and do you
have the part numbers? When I did mine the first time I didn't understand
the backup ring concept. I have been doing some research about
backup rings and how they stop the main o-ring from extruding out
of the piston groove. I have been looking at o-rings and backup rings at
Baum Hydraulics.