A new home for a crippled Bolens G174

[NHmitch]

I think that I may have a source for the splines, I'll let you know. From the looks of your G174 and the 3 cylinder engine, the exposed front PTO, and the decals, it looks like you have one of the "newer" G174's. Probably a late 80's, to around 1991.

I would also try contacting this seller on eBay. He is parting out a G174, and I have bought a few parts from the tractor. I believe that he may still have the transmission, and gears. Just contact him under the "contact seller" tab. Bolens Iseki G174 TX1500 Tractor Mitsubishi 17hp Diesel Engine Oil Pan | eBay

Your tractor is a cat 1, and you should be able to use most cat 1 implements keeping in mind that you have around an 800-900lb lifting capacity, and your three speed 17hp PTO. Once you get it running again, you may want to add some suitcase weights to the front depending on what you are going to use the tractor for. I also have a good source for a certified ROPS that is made for your G174.

 

[NHmitch]

They have the rear end, and I believe that they have the complete transmission. They may be aboe to just sell you the part that you need..Bolens Iseki G174 TX1500 Tractor Transaxle | eBay

 

[D4mm1t]

Thanks for your replys Mitch,

I seen and contacted the guy selling the trans on Ebay, he stated the only G174 parts he has is what's listed on Ebay.

The parts I need are the transmission input shaft and the spline boss that connects the output shaft coming from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft. Free time and the cold are keeping me from getting under it and looking to see what broke so not sure if the "pin" sheered or some other meaningful carnage was done.

The tractor had a manual with part numbers but my neighbor seems to have lost it, but I believe I could pick the parts out if I seen an exploded view of the trans.

I only have a few acres here so the tractor will never be used to it's full potential, we've been looking for a small horse farm but finding one that meets our needs and has reasonable rent is hard to come by.

 

[D4mm1t]

I think that I may have a source for the splines, I'll let you know. From the looks of your G174 and the 3 cylinder engine, the exposed front PTO, and the decals, it looks like you have one of the "newer" G174's. Probably a late 80's, to around 1991.

I would also try contacting this seller on eBay. He is parting out a G174, and I have bought a few parts from the tractor. I believe that he may still have the transmission, and gears. Just contact him under the "contact seller" tab. Bolens Iseki G174 TX1500 Tractor Mitsubishi 17hp Diesel Engine Oil Pan | eBay

Your tractor is a cat 1, and you should be able to use most cat 1 implements keeping in mind that you have around an 800-900lb lifting capacity, and your three speed 17hp PTO. Once you get it running again, you may want to add some suitcase weights to the front depending on what you are going to use the tractor for. I also have a good source for a certified ROPS that is made for your G174.

I removed the front drive shaft and had a look under the tractor today, neighbors makeshift pin did sheer and no other damage was done, splines on the transmission input shaft are toast for sure, I would think the same about the spline boss. I made a new pin out of stainless and put it in the spring clip hole and the tractor can move under it's own power again, the hole is so small and the pin my neighbor made was made too small it makes me wonder how he used it to mow his fields for an entire summer.

I ran the tractor up and down our driveway and noticed a sound in the transmission that makes me think there is a damaged tooth on the high speed gear, makes the same sound in low or high range but only while in 3rd or 6th, something more for me to investigate when I do break it apart.

Out of curiosity I decided to try and get the tractor to the top of one of the hills in my back yard and I do indeed need weight on the front, maybe lots of weight, those tires are not very kind to moist ground.

While heading up that hill I was thinking about that ROPS, I looked for a program in KY but don't think there is one, I want a ROPS as it's hilly out here but paying full price it will have to be one of the last things I buy.

For the age of that tractor it has some torque, I know my neighbor owned and used it for a little over 20 years and think if I fix it properly it could go another 20.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

While heading up that hill I was thinking about that ROPS, I looked for a program in KY but don't think there is one, I want a ROPS as it's hilly out here but paying full price it will have to be one of the last things I buy.

For the age of that tractor it has some torque, I know my neighbor owned and used it for a little over 20 years and think if I fix it properly it could go another 20.

ROPS begins to be more of a concern when you have a pin that could shear at any time in the driveline and send you quickly back downhill! Thankfully your brakes will still work in case it does (and I'd keep it in 4wd in challenging terrain so your front tires brake as good as they can with a differential in addition to the rears). Unfortunately you won't have a lot of directional options at that point though.

I was climbing some pretty steep hills with my TX1300F this past weekend and was thinking how scary it would be if something in the drive gave out and sent me free-wheeling backwards especially w/o a ROPS which is something I plan on getting (or making) in the future. I was doing some trail-riding and quickly determined that an ATV/UTV would be much better suited for that - but I just had to confirm it One of the biggest problems with having no suspension besides the rough ride is that a tractor tends to lift wheels off the ground rather easily causing it to lose traction and forward movement. Kind of a weird feeling in rocky terrain especially going uphill. Also since the tractor moves so much slower, you don't have any real momentum to keep you going over "tough spots" in a climb. In the end the tractor performed well and had good stability but I'm probably going to avoid hills a little more after my experience unless that is my only option.

With the proper care and maintenance your tractor should go many more years. Just be careful not to overload it. In general, I think people expect they can do more with these tractors than what they were designed for. You can probably get away with it for a while but time will take its toll on the unit. Be especially careful if you get a loader attachment as these have a lot of potential to over-stress components. As with any diesel engine, oil changes are paramount to their longevity. Don't skip or put this off.

 

[NHmitch]

Thats too bad about the splines and the pin. I attached the exploded diagrams and hopefully we can help you get the tractor repaired, and hopefully it will be relatively inexpensive! I have weights on the front of my G154, and I had to measure very carefully to get the most weight out of the small front bumper that the tractor has. I was able to attach (4) 42 pound suitcase weights, and they are an exact fit. I bought them at Tractor Supply and they are made by MTD. My front tires are loaded with washer fluid, and it helps add extra weight. They have been loaded for the entire life of the tractor without any issues.

The ROPS was a big purchase for me, but I was very fortunate to have a program here in New Hampshire that reimbursed me for the cost of the ROPS. I have very hilling terrain here as I am at the base of a mountain, and they really were a necessity. You might want to try the University of Kentucky. They have done extensive research into ROPS, and they may be able to point you in the direction of a ROPS program in your area. http://www.mc.uky.edu/scahip/ropsnotebook.html They are sometimes difficult to find. It's really important to have certified ROPS, and there are grants out there.. The counterweight can help a bit too. You can also load your rear tires.

I think that you could easily get another 20+ years out of the tractor. They are built like tanks, and usually the only thing that needs replacing is the clutch after about 20-30 years. It looks like a really nice tractor. Parts tractors appear on eBay at random, and usually there are a couple a year if you are lucky. There are also a few tractor parts search sites, and a few of Iseki TX's are usually on there. Hopefully it will be an easy fix!

Here are the diagrams, and a photo of mine with the weights and the ROPS. Let me know if you can identify the damaged parts. I have a list of all of the parts numbers, and we can start there with a search..

I removed the front drive shaft and had a look under the tractor today, neighbors makeshift pin did sheer and no other damage was done, splines on the transmission input shaft are toast for sure, I would think the same about the spline boss. I made a new pin out of stainless and put it in the spring clip hole and the tractor can move under it's own power again, the hole is so small and the pin my neighbor made was made too small it makes me wonder how he used it to mow his fields for an entire summer.

I ran the tractor up and down our driveway and noticed a sound in the transmission that makes me think there is a damaged tooth on the high speed gear, makes the same sound in low or high range but only while in 3rd or 6th, something more for me to investigate when I do break it apart.

Out of curiosity I decided to try and get the tractor to the top of one of the hills in my back yard and I do indeed need weight on the front, maybe lots of weight, those tires are not very kind to moist ground.

While heading up that hill I was thinking about that ROPS, I looked for a program in KY but don't think there is one, I want a ROPS as it's hilly out here but paying full price it will have to be one of the last things I buy.

For the age of that tractor it has some torque, I know my neighbor owned and used it for a little over 20 years and think if I fix it properly it could go another 20.

 

[TomSeller]

Did the owner say how the splines were stripped in the first place? I saw where you said the screwdriver fix failed when mowing. Is the mower not equipped with a slip clutch or soft sheer pin? He may not want to use the mower on his new tractor if not.

 

[D4mm1t]

Thats too bad about the splines and the pin. I attached the exploded diagrams and hopefully we can help you get the tractor repaired, and hopefully it will be relatively inexpensive! I have weights on the front of my G154, and I had to measure very carefully to get the most weight out of the small front bumper that the tractor has. I was able to attach (4) 42 pound suitcase weights, and they are an exact fit. I bought them at Tractor Supply and they are made by MTD. My front tires are loaded with washer fluid, and it helps add extra weight. They have been loaded for the entire life of the tractor without any issues.

The ROPS was a big purchase for me, but I was very fortunate to have a program here in New Hampshire that reimbursed me for the cost of the ROPS. I have very hilling terrain here as I am at the base of a mountain, and they really were a necessity. You might want to try the University of Kentucky. They have done extensive research into ROPS, and they may be able to point you in the direction of a ROPS program in your area. Southeast Center for Agricultural Health and Injury Prevention - Ropes Note Book They are sometimes difficult to find. It's really important to have certified ROPS, and there are grants out there.. The counterweight can help a bit too. You can also load your rear tires.

I think that you could easily get another 20+ years out of the tractor. They are built like tanks, and usually the only thing that needs replacing is the clutch after about 20-30 years. It looks like a really nice tractor. Parts tractors appear on eBay at random, and usually there are a couple a year if you are lucky. There are also a few tractor parts search sites, and a few of Iseki TX's are usually on there. Hopefully it will be an easy fix!

Here are the diagrams, and a photo of mine with the weights and the ROPS. Let me know if you can identify the damaged parts. I have a list of all of the parts numbers, and we can start there with a search..

I like the looks of those weights, Looks like your tractor handles allot of weight on the rear so doubt I would need any more weight on my front than U have, ROPS looks pretty good as well, makes it look like a newer model tractor.

I'm still waiting to see if my neighbor will be using the mower off the bolens, I'm not understanding his method of thinking as he has a large belly mower on his new tractor and thinking both would be active once he engages the PTO clutch, I'm guessing he's wanting to use the bolens mower as a bush hog maybe.?

It looks like the part that is labeled number 1 is what I need, it's hard to tell as the lines for placement on the diagram are a little faded, if it's darker on your end it's the top most shaft that exits the front of the transmission, the lower shaft is for the front wheel drive. I would also need the collar that connects both the output shaft from the engine to the input shaft to the transmission, my neighbor said his repair manual called it a spline boss but can't remember any other info.

I'll install a new clutch and throwout bearing as a preventative measure, clutch feels fine but I have no idea how my neighbor drove it.

I would have to replace all 4 innertubes if I wanted to load my wheels as they slowly leak air, the tires are looking a little dryrotted so in time those would need to be replaced as well.

I will shoot some emails out to the site you listed to get some information about getting me a ROPS, hopefully they can steer me in the right direction to get one sort of cheap.

Thanks for all the help, I may not be able to afford everything at once but I do hope to have it back in working order in a few months or so.

 

[D4mm1t]

Did the owner say how the splines were stripped in the first place? I saw where you said the screwdriver fix failed when mowing. Is the mower not equipped with a slip clutch or soft sheer pin? He may not want to use the mower on his new tractor if not.

I believe the original failure of the tractor is still a mystery, it did happen while he was mowing one of his fields though.

I have not looked at the mower deck at all to be honest, it should have a sheer pin somewhere between the PTO and main drive gear of the mower I would hope, but I have never owned anything this size before so I could be wrong. It is belt driven so if something would jam the blades I think the belt would slip before any damage would occur, if the gears in the mower would jam that's another story but the mower seems to function properly, but I have only used it a few minutes at the most.

My theory is this, I noticed a noise coming from the transmission that makes me believe there is at least one damaged tooth on at least one gear and that "bad spot" may get jammed under certain circumstances and then something has to give. He mows at a good pace so the engine is probably cranking out max torque and if the transmission would somehow jam and stop all at once something has to fail, I will check every gear for damage once I break it apart to be certain but so far that is the only logical scenario I can come up with.

 

[D4mm1t]

ROPS begins to be more of a concern when you have a pin that could shear at any time in the driveline and send you quickly back downhill! Thankfully your brakes will still work in case it does (and I'd keep it in 4wd in challenging terrain so your front tires brake as good as they can with a differential in addition to the rears). Unfortunately you won't have a lot of directional options at that point though.

I was climbing some pretty steep hills with my TX1300F this past weekend and was thinking how scary it would be if something in the drive gave out and sent me free-wheeling backwards especially w/o a ROPS which is something I plan on getting (or making) in the future. I was doing some trail-riding and quickly determined that an ATV/UTV would be much better suited for that - but I just had to confirm it One of the biggest problems with having no suspension besides the rough ride is that a tractor tends to lift wheels off the ground rather easily causing it to lose traction and forward movement. Kind of a weird feeling in rocky terrain especially going uphill. Also since the tractor moves so much slower, you don't have any real momentum to keep you going over "tough spots" in a climb. In the end the tractor performed well and had good stability but I'm probably going to avoid hills a little more after my experience unless that is my only option.

With the proper care and maintenance your tractor should go many more years. Just be careful not to overload it. In general, I think people expect they can do more with these tractors than what they were designed for. You can probably get away with it for a while but time will take its toll on the unit. Be especially careful if you get a loader attachment as these have a lot of potential to over-stress components. As with any diesel engine, oil changes are paramount to their longevity. Don't skip or put this off.

The "hill test" was for sh*ts and giggles, the hill wasn't super long and wasn't all that steep. If the pin sheered while going up the hill I would have coasted back rather slowly as the hill was muddy and I was pretty much sinking into it, also nothing was behind me that would get me on the news.

I believe a ROPS is a must, I'm getting to be an old forgetful fart that may get myself in a off canter jam the tractor can't handle and off we go on a wild ride.

The tractor is too top heavy for off road fun, an ATV is more suitable, or if you're like me I wheel a Jeep as a hobby.

The most I would do to stress that tractor is tow a soon to be made trailer, most likely wood from dead or already fell tress I will be cleaning up then hauling back to my house, I'll keep most of the weight on the trailer tandems though. Trial and error on how much the tractor can safely pull will determine the final size of the trailer, will make a break away hitch as well so if it flips me and the tractor don't go with it.

I'm a fluids changing freak, engine oil, diff gear oil, trans fluid, transfer case all gets changed way sooner than it needs it, my off road Jeep gets all that done (minus trans fluid) after almost every trip, every trip if I get into deep water.